Oops, after just attempting a slic3r file, I realised it does not wait for the head and bed to warm up! Can someone show me the codes to add to the pre-processing code area of slic3r to enable waits for safe temperatures please ?by Davek0974 - Ormerod
That's possible, I'll check that out thanks,by Davek0974 - Ormerod
I have slic3r running and have loaded the custom ini files but have noticed a couple of errors? The filament was set to 3mm and not 1.75mm, Use relative E distances was off, Bed was cold I entered 1.75 for filament, checked relative E's and set first layer bed to 55, next layers to 45, hot end was 200 / 200 Do these sound correct? All changed were save back to the ini file.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Of course, I'll pop a picture or two up as soon as the ormaxis file has finished.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
I have so far printed two snowmen and am running the ormaxis.g file at the moment. In pronterface I see it sets bed temp as 45deg but as soon as the sample codes are run it ups it to 65deg. I seem to be getting a fair amount of spread around the bottom layers, is that an indicator of bed too hot?by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Ok. So after an hour or so fiddling about, using the 3mm nuts as jack-screws, I have my bed as level as I can get it, the four points read 0, 0, 0, 0.9 on the z axis,, seems one corner - the bottom right hand one just will not go lower without upsetting the others. I've set those figures in my setbed.g file. Does that sound reasonable? I'm running the Ormaxis.g gile now.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Success! Just managed to print a perfect snowman! One of those milestone moments in a project build, picture later. Just about managed bed adhesion by using a tissue and water, not a drip of acetone or nail polish remover in the house Later today I'm going to mess with the bed to get her a bit more level then redo my compensation figures and maybe try to get a little more daylight under theby Davek0974 - Ormerod
I like the idea re using the x bearing as a switch, one alteration I did make during build was to apply two layers of self adhesive stainless steel shim tape to the bearing running stripe, the head was drooping and just didn't look right. We use this tape at work, it's very tough and only .002" thick by 1/4" wide, good stuff but razor sharp! The only downside with using the runner as a switch wby Davek0974 - Ormerod
I will try again today with manual z setting, but will leave the bed compensation as it is, just not issue the auto command yet. I really don't want to alter the firmware yet until I know what's going on, too many changes in one go is not always good. The bed does need physically levelling, diagonal is about 1mm out, not chronic but I think it can be adjusted better, I was just aiming to printby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Yes 057a I'm not worried about printing direct from pronterface, ad card will be better. Do I need to undo any settings I have tweaked to use manual levelling or are we talking physically levelling the bed manually? Levelling or compensation I guess?? Will clean bed before next print test but need to make sure I start out in the right direction.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
I'm using the firmware as supplied, it matched the file on the web site so I saw no point in updating. Issuing m561 followed by m556 s100 x0 y0 z0 allowed me to successfully zero the z axis using g92. Z0 I commented out the g28 in the snowman file and made the mistake of loading from my desktop and running it from pronterface not the sd card, it was not happy but I recall reading that somewherby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Ok, just run it up from cold, Connected with pronterface, run my setbed.g file, manually homed the z axis, issued a g92 z0 command but the get pos return was not zero for z, it read 0.115 or thereabouts, it would not zero.? I run the code and it was indeed the M116 waiting that I saw so that's ok, it warmed the bed, then warmed the head, then started printing but it was printing about 3mm aboveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Ok so the homing might be ok then. The bed and head were fully up to temp before I loaded the g-code, is that not the right way, should I have left them cold and then loaded the file??by Davek0974 - Ormerod
I'm still trying to prep for the first print, I have calibrated the filament feed and added that to the config file. I then followed through the manual bed calibration, automatic bed calibration and that seemed to work when running the circle.g file, quite impressive really. I then told it to run an auto bed cal and that seemed to go ok. I thought I was ready to run the ormaxis.g file but itby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Ok, thanks for the explanationby Davek0974 - Ormerod
QuoteFlyskyhy QuoteDavek0974 Thanks dc42 Sounds like I might be better practising just with pronterface first? I only went for web connection as it mentioned it in the axis compensation section of the guide, can it be fully setup with pronterface etc? You can set it up with Pronterface only (you don't even need a special Pronterface version). Have a look at my post for the commands that you wiby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Thanks dc42 Looking at the notes it mentions changing file pointers to "the local web server" where would that be? Sounds like I might be better practising just with pronterface first? I only went for web connection as it mentioned it in the axis compensation section of the guide, can it be fully setup with pronterface etc?by Davek0974 - Ormerod
I have now managed to build my Ormerod and am working through commissioning it. Just got it connected via the Ethernet but chrome does not show any buttons just the empty position and heat boxes etc. I am using a direct connection from laptop to ormerod. Any ideas how to get the control buttons to show??by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi Thanks all for the tips, my points of view... I would not recommend putting washers under the M6 screws between plate and aluminium, this would be a visible botch-up and not very stable. All four of my rods measured 352mm precisely, there seems to be only one position on the kit that the extra length is not important. In the end I took three of my rods to a local engineers and they ground oby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi all, my Ormerod kit arrived this morning and was eagerly unpacked and checked off. I was happily beavering away with the start of the build when I came to fit the first two round steel slide rods to the Y axis. It turns out they are 2mm over length which places massive strain on the end assemblies and also looks stupid so i have disassembled it to prevent breakage. The are supposed to beby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Great, just ordered an ormerod The CNC table I have been messing with is destined to be a plasma cutter next week, have been messing around while waiting for the new plasma cutter torch to arrive, it will get very messy very quickly when cutting steel, not good for delicate 3d stuff I guess. Can't wait to get buildingby Davek0974 - Printing
It managed to run for most of one print and made the nut attached. Its not pretty as the bottom 4 layers are missing while i was messing about trying to get it to feed material. 10 seconds after that print it was blocked solid again so i turned it off and gave up as there is no point trying if it wont reliably feed plastic. I have also drilled it out to 0.4mm now. The temperature was 10 degreeby Davek0974 - Printing
Thanks A2, you were right on all counts. I warmed the head slowly towards melt point and pulled most of the filament out, it was indeed jammed solid by swelling in the head support bolt, it took considerable force to remove it. The head is now clear but the jet is solid, could not even probe it when hot with 0.3mm hard steel wire, totally blocked. As its buggered I am going to drill it throughby Davek0974 - Printing
QuoteNewPerfection Those cheap eBay hot ends are often useless for PLA. In fact, the listing only mentions being compatible with ABS. If you want to print PLA you will need a hot end that is compatible with PLA, such as a genuine J-Head (NOT from eBay) or E3D all-metal hot end, among others. If you release the idler tension, you should be able to easily feed the filament through the heated hotby Davek0974 - Printing
Quotewaitaki To measure the extrusion accurately you need to check it from the top of the the extruder, not the nozzle i.e.-Mark the filament,say 50mm above the entry point of the extruder and set your host software to extrude 50mm. The mark should stop at the entry point. If not, you need to re-calibrate. That is exactly what I did.by Davek0974 - Printing
I fitted a pile of bits together today and mounted a 3d head on my CNC table but the results were less than useful. I can't seem to get any material extruded, well practically none anyway. It's just slipping in the feed rollers, even with a very hefty push by hand on the filament while the motor is jogging produces nothing more than a tiny blip of material every minute or so, you can feel the mby Davek0974 - Printing