I was looking at the schematics for the Duet board, and saw there is a pin for controlling the power supply (middle pin on the J20 header if I'm reading things right). Has anyone used that? I imagine you would need a cable from there to one of the pins on the ATX power board. How should that be connected? Is there any firmware support for it? It would be pretty neat to run the Duet board off theby jstck - Ormerod
Impressive! What slicer settings / temperatures are you using?by jstck - Ormerod
I thought about taking one of those and attaching it permanently to the Ormerod, and have it powered from the +5V on the Duet board.by jstck - Ormerod
The X /Y resolution for the Ormerod is listed as 0.0125mm, and that's probably the distance travelled from the smallest step possible from the stepper motors. The "error" in this case (0.005142mm) is just under half the resolution, which makes sense. That is simply as close to 50.0000 as the stepper motors are capable of getting. Still though, if you zeroed it at X0 Y0 (or Y200 for that matter),by jstck - Ormerod
I'm not sure what the size of the object is, but I very much doubt you will be able to print that kind of overhang without support. You can usually bridge gaps a few millimeters, but the wider the gap the more you'll get stuff hanging down. 6mm might be possible with the right temperature, speed and extrusion width settings but 10mm would probably sag down no matter what Either enable printing sby jstck - Ormerod
I had an M140 command (not mentioned in the tooltip stuff, it just says M104/190) in the custom G-code that was commented out, which was apparently enough for it to be "detected" and ignored. However, using variable names in the custom start G-code is a lot more elegant. Also it means I can do an M140 to start heating, go homing while it heats, and then an M119 later to wait for all temperaturesby jstck - Slic3r
I've had the X axis skip when it was at "low X", due to the hotend cable jamming between the fan and the electronics box and blocking the X carriage. I just ziptied it so it would bend upwards instead of sideways, problem solved. Anyways, you should be able to clearly hear when it happens, and figure out what's going on. Chances are it's an easy fix.by jstck - Ormerod
If you expect a 3D printer kit to be something where you just "put the parts together and it will work", you probably shouldn't get any kind of RepRap but go for something "more commercial" (and likely much more expensive). It will require some work to get it running right and you have to basically know a bit of what you're doing (or spend way more time doing trial-and-error), and it's certainlyby jstck - Ormerod
If you're referring to the nyloc nut on the end of the "extruder bolt", I don't think it has to be very tight at all. It really only prevents the extruder bolt from falling out when there is no filament in there, normally the filament will keep it from moving. However, in my case I tightened the "hobbed insert" part up really tight, and put some thread-locking stuff on the hobbed insert to keep iby jstck - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quotejstck Since we're on the subject of bed compensation, where is really the best place to set it (assuming I want to do manual compensation with values I measured myself)? If I have it in homez/homeall, I have to get the SD card and update the files every time I change it. If I have it in sedbed.g, I'll forget to apply it half the times I'm starting a print. And if I put it in the "cby jstck - Ormerod
Hi! When I generate a gcode file, it appears as if the bed temperature setting for the first layer just isn't used. For example, in the ABS filament preset, I set first layer temperature to 110, the rest to 100. When looking at the gcode, there is a "M140 S100" command between layers 1 and 2 to set the bed temperature to the "other layers" temp, and "M140 S0" at the end to turn off the bed heateby jstck - Slic3r
Since we're on the subject of bed compensation, where is really the best place to set it (assuming I want to do manual compensation with values I measured myself)? If I have it in homez/homeall, I have to get the SD card and update the files every time I change it. If I have it in sedbed.g, I'll forget to apply it half the times I'm starting a print. And if I put it in the "custom g-code" in slicby jstck - Ormerod
I would guess that is due to the STL 3D viewer thingy (I think it's done in JavaScript) on the target page.by jstck - Ormerod
Well, problem very likely solved. TL;DR: the "nozzle mount" (the part between the x carriage and the hotend assembly) was upside down. The z-probe triggers when it is about 2mm above the bed (as best as I can tell, it's hard to get in there and properly measure) just as it is supposed to, but at which height the nozzle and fan duct were well below the print surface. I took the hotend off just toby jstck - Ormerod
Ahoy! Whenever I do Z probing, it has to get so close to the bed that the nozzle will actually hit it. I can do probing along the outside edge of the bed, but I have to go all the way out to X230 (>=228). When using reasonable threshold values, it stops at about Z -1.2, so I basically just set the "height" of the probe to a negative value (default = +1.8), thus: G31 Z-1.2 P500 I tried loweriby jstck - Ormerod
Quotemichaelljunggren Quotedc42 2. The voltage on the 12V line should be nowhere near 15V. I think your ATX power supply may be faulty.It's actually 17.5 when idling. A few volts are to be expected surely, but you suggest this is too much? Could someone please check their own? I measured at the input to the duet board. While I haven't personally seen 17.5V no-load voltage in an ATX PSU, it mightby jstck - Ormerod
I've used old ATX PSU's as "generic lab PSU" now and then, and I've seen unloaded ATX PSU's give out anything between 10.5 and 13.5V on the 12V rail when under no load (which sort of never happens when attached to a computer). While 15V sounds a bit high, I wouldn't be too surprised by it. It could be the fan is actually running "too fast" on 15V, and then slows down as the voltage settles down tby jstck - Ormerod
The way the hotend fan is wired according to the documentation, it should run at constant speed since it's connected straight to 12V. The black/red cables are connected to pins 31 and 35 of the "motor loom" header, which is ground and +12V respective (as per the schematic for the Duet). The +12V pin is actually labelled as the power pin for the heater, but it's all the same +12V essentially. Theby jstck - Ormerod