The stock PSU should be fine with two nozzles, the nozzle doesn't use that much power (the bed heater is the power-hungry one). If you are printing ABS with two nozzles it might be a stretch, but with some modifications of the Alpine PSU it does well enough.by jstck - Ormerod
I replaced my acrylic plate+rib for aluminium ones, and to be honest I didn't notice any big difference in print quality or precision. The X movement is as far as I can tell a little bit more "straight" (it droops down less at the far end, making the bed seem flatter), but it is by a small amount.by jstck - Ormerod
From the drawing on this page, you could measure the positions of the mounting holes, scaling things to the board size. For that, the product web page says 95x60mm while the PDF says 86.9x50.8x1.6mm, and the proportions look more like the latter to me. Not ideal, but should be enough to get started. There are no mounting positions along the Y extrusion or the Duet enclosure that would fit bothby jstck - Ormerod
No, this isn't the right place (this thread is for the old 058 series, you're on 078), and yes it should be vertical-align.by jstck - Ormerod
On my Ormerod, the edge of the rods are flush with the acrylic endplates, so an extra plate behind it wouldn't interfere. If the rods do stick out, you can just make holes in the aluminium. That is probably a lot easier than cutting the steel rods.by jstck - Ormerod
To just get the printer back up and running, you could probably just glue the broken bit back together, possibly with some reinforcement across the crack. Replacing it with aluminium would make it a lot stronger, but it might not be ideal precision-wise. The end-piece "squeezes" on the two steel rods to keep them in just the right place, and it might be tricky to get the right "tight fit" with aby jstck - Ormerod
The NEMA17 motors of the Ormerod are also fairly "shallow". I got a bunch of generic NEMA17 motors for another project, and they were about 1cm deeper (still 43.2 x 43.2mm), and I guess that also usually means bigger motor coils and more torque. Replacing the stock motors with those would be reasonably simple (compared to NEMA23 motors), the Y motor would just need a modified bracket and a longerby jstck - Ormerod
If you have problems with any slicer software understanding STL files from Sketchup (or OpenSCAD for that matter), netfabb usually makes them 100% error free after a simple automatic repair. And if you don't want to bother with netfabb basic (which does require some clicking around even for automatic repair), there is an online version that is dead simple and usually does the trick just as well.by jstck - Ormerod
Sounds like you have connected the wires to the wrong pins on the microswitch. You should connect to the "NC" (normally closed) pin, not the "NO" (normally open). Mixing those two up will invert the state of the switch.by jstck - Ormerod
This is an enclosure for the Duet board and the power PCB of the Ormerod 1, to be mounted on the back of the printer similar to how it sits on the Ormerod 2. It screws into the Y aluminium extrusion just as the power PCB does originally, and there is an additional top mount that goes into the Z extrusion. It is based on the existing enclosures from bobtidey and dc42. It still has dc42's code forby jstck - Ormerod
Can you post some pictures of what you mean? I don't quite get it from the description. The cable tie loops on the BigBlue fanduct are pretty high up. I guess the closer to the X axis rod you have them, the less moment the force of the cables will exert on the carriage, and the less risk of it moving.by jstck - Ormerod
Quotedc42 * Bug fix: M92 command would only set extruder steps/mm if either 1 or 5 extruder steps/mm was provided Could you elaborate a bit on this? Would the command only work if the value provided was 1 or 5? The Ormerod extruder drive normally has a value over 400, would that command then just never have had any effect earlier? Awesome job as usual!by jstck - Ormerod
Just a G92 command would change what position the printer considers itself to be at, but it wouldn't actually move it unless you also do a G1 (which probably would be best done by "tagging on" a Z0.24 onto the next G1 in the queue, rather than stopping XY movement, move Z, continue on). It might be something as simple as "just tell Z motor to move a couple of steps", since it should not actuallyby jstck - Ormerod
One feature request I have, that may or may not be feasible: Be able to do fine adjustments to Z height with the control wheel. Sometimes when printing on tricky surfaces and/or with strange filaments that require very precise Z homing, it would be easier to just start printing and while it is doing the first layer skirt and brim, fine-tune it until it is just right. Essentially something to "nudby jstck - Ormerod
The narrow rolls I have (30mm and less) are quite a lot of strips to cover the whole glass plate, while that 200mm roll is very tricky to apply neatly even when using various liquids and other tricks (easy to get bubbles or creases). Ideal would probably be tape 50-70mm wide so you can cover the bed in 3-4 strips of manageable size. At least 50 and 100mm are found cheaply on ebay as well, but I cby jstck - Ormerod
Yeah, it won't matter much if you do the "full Y axis upgrade" from an Ormerod 1 to Ormerod 2 Y axis, only if someone does the "Ormerod 1.5" half-upgrade like I did. There's no real performance reason to do so though, just makes the printer look different.by jstck - Ormerod
While doing the swap I did find the following: On my Ormerod the two steel rods are flush with the acrylic end plates, so it doesn't matter that the pocket for the rod is in the wrong place as it isn't really needed. While a mirrored ormerod-1 part is "better", I was fine with the ormerod-2 one. If you are using iamburnys belt clamps, those need to be mirrored as well since the belt now twistsby jstck - Ormerod
Ah, I thought it was the outer rod that had moved, but that seems to be in the same spot. Quotedroftarts It would probably be safest to take the Ormerod 1 y-ends and 'mirror' them (you can do this in Netfabb Basic), as the pocket in the idler end will then be in the right place. Yep, that should work. Mirroring the Ormerod 1 idler bracket, and use together with the Ormerod 2 Y motor bracket. Iby jstck - Ormerod
If I just want to change the position of the Y motor (to the other end of the Y axis) on my "Mk I", is it sufficient to just swap out the Y motor bracket and Y idler bracket (as well as obviously extending cables to motor and microswitch)? It looks to me like the inner of the two 12mm steel rods is still in the same position, in which case I guess it should fit with the old acrylic end-plates. Dby jstck - Ormerod
I think the only difference is that the Ormerod 2 ships with a slightly newer revision of the Duet that has screw terminals for bed heater and pin headers for the bed thermistor, but judging from the picture you already have that. If you have a Duet without those, it is pretty easy to solder them in.by jstck - Ormerod
Quotemelbcycle...represents fully unacceptable design. I think you're being unfairly harsh in saying that. The stock design works, even with ABS. I could get the bed no higher than 110°C, and going to 100°C took quite a while, but it printed ABS just fine. Sure, things can be improved power-wise, but the stock setup is by no means unusable. And many Ormerod users probably just print PLA anyway,by jstck - Ormerod
I don't necessarily think the ribbon cable is too small in terms of cable area. Each wire is tiny, but there's lots of them. Fixing the PSU voltage stability issues and "overvolting" just a little bit enables my bed to reach 132°C, and ABS printing temperatures (I run at 100-110°C) in reasonable time. With the stock PSU, no amount of cabling could ever fix it. WIth the stock cabling and both heaby jstck - Ormerod
Cura uses absolute extrusion values, Slic3r by default does relative. If you put M82 in your start g-code (and remove any occurence of M83), it should work fine. At least it did for me. I think the cura engine can be configured to output relative values, but as far as I know there is no way to set that in the GUI.by jstck - Ormerod
There is a decent guide for modding the supplied Alpine PSU to provide a bit higher voltage and more stable +12V rail. I did and go much improved voltage stability under load, essentially no voltage drop even with all heaters running. I set it at 13.2V because somewhere around 13.4-13.5V the PSU detects the overvoltage and shuts down and I wanted a bit of margin. Have used that for a couple monthby jstck - Ormerod
Of course, you could make the regexes more flexible in terms of amount of whitespace and such, but whatever ugly hack works...by jstck - Ormerod
My 5 minute hack of it attached. Usage example: ./fixusage.py < input.g > output.g It reads gcode from stdin and outputs it on stdout. It remembers the Z value of those "layer NN Z = 47.11", changes the format of any "filament length" lines, and prints out that comment with the last seen Z value at the end. Includes some commented-out code if you want it to read a specific named file instby jstck - Ormerod
I think it is mostly a matter of temperature, speed and cooling. I've had this happen on overhangs where they curl upwards, but with no clear pattern to when it arises (I don't know the common factor among which prints do this and not). My best-guess theory though: When it prints the outermost perimeter the ones inside are still soft enough that when it cools (and therefore shrinks a little bit)by jstck - Ormerod
Have you tried measuring resistance across the thermistor wires (down at the connector) with a multimeter? You should get around 90-100kΩ at room temperature.by jstck - Ormerod
I tried with a cheap IR thermometer, and got the same value as you for the heat bed. Would not surprise me if 60°C measured at the thermistor means 55°C actual surface temperature. I got readings of about 140°C for the outside surface of the heater block. With a thermocouple, I actually got readings only a degree or two less when holding it against the outside surface of the hotend (in the corneby jstck - Ormerod
I think what is happening there is to a large extent due to very short print times for each layer, so the plastic underneath isn't cold enough when the next layer comes. Try slowing down printing near the end, and/or increasing cooling. You can also try to increase the number of perimeters and solid top layers to give it a bit more surface to print on. If you can't get it to come out right, youby jstck - Ormerod