Could it be that the PTFE liner is cut too short and not fully pushed into the nozzle? I'm thinking that would create a too large cavity where the filament is melted, which could form that kind of "plug".by jstck - Ormerod
Oh yeah. Forgot about those (as they're not really "structural").Tighten them down every single time you move the printer, and every now and then if stationary. Seriously, do it. With the PSU turned off.by jstck - Ormerod
I guess only time it would make a difference is when you do web-uploads of gcode files. Everything else should be really low bandwidth.by jstck - Ormerod
I would in no way be displeased if it came with an SD card reader, I just don't have any use for it and just assume most Ormerod users have network connectivity to their printer. But if it is cheap and easy to include, by all means, of course do it. If using the SPI lines, would it just be a "duplicate" of the on-board SD slot? So, wherever the card is inserted it will work the same? (And be doomby jstck - Ormerod
A while back I had my printer oriented such that the SD card was a bit tricky to get to, and there were frequent changes to the SD card (uploading files through web ui wasn't complete), and I got an SD card "extension cord" to have it more accessible. I have stopped using that though, since I very rarely have to bother taking the SD card out. I only do that when there are multiple files changed oby jstck - Ormerod
Move commands (G1 and a few others) are buffered, while the rest are not, so M81 will be executed while there are still things in the buffer. The firmware will keep going through the buffer and run those commands, but they obviously won't do much when 12V power is off. You need to either run a command that waits for the buffer to be emptied, or just have a delay long enough that it is likely toby jstck - Ormerod
I have been running my Ormerod quite a lot since I got it in March, and have really had no problems with nuts or bolts coming undone. I think I might have lost a nut or two in the bed support, but I'm using a different setup there now (the aluminium plate, and support screws standing on nyloc nuts). I was suspicious of some bolts, but I have gone over it a couple of times after a while of printinby jstck - Ormerod
If you have the distance as 75 instead of 78, that shouldn't make a big difference (the compensation will be 5% too much or too little, which is probably less than the precision in the measurements anyway). As for the bed compensation, those numbers seem very large. Does the bed really drop down 3mm in 130mm X travel (from X45 to X175)? If that is the case, you should really try to get your bedby jstck - Ormerod
Get one of those power meters that you plug in the wall socket and measure it. Will give you both current power draw as well as average over time, for your particular use case.by jstck - Ormerod
More pixels = better, but I guess it will be the product designers / manufacturers (i.e. dc42) judgement call whether or not it is worth the extra cost. I'm personally not price-sensitive enough to say anything other than "go big".by jstck - Ormerod
Yeah, linear bearings are also plentiful on ebay, it just takes a couple weeks to get the cheap ones. At least the LM12UU (for Y and Z) are cheap, the LM12LUU (for X) is a bit more expensive. The linear bearings are probably more likely to pick up dust and crap, since they "eat up" whatever is on the rods. If the rubber seal is gone (which pushes most of the junk out of the way), I would guess tby jstck - Ormerod
There are a few different things to look at. My prime suspect would be the bearing on the back of the X-carriage, if the screw has come loose the whole thing will sag. Another thing to check is that the nozzle mount hasn't gotten deformed, some people printing with ABS have had enough heat to warp the plastic. Does the acrylic arm look bent or warped in any way? Also, of course, bed levelling andby jstck - Ormerod
It doesn't bother me that it "starts early", but I did print something where it did a lot of bridging (In just one particular layer), and when the fan slowed down for the last few millimeters of it that bit got visibly more "saggy". Simple workaround is to just not use the autocooling and run fan at high speed for models that have bridges in them.by jstck - Ormerod
Also noticed something odd in the fan behaviour when printing with this. I have Slic3r set to do "auto-cooling", and it will speed up the fans whenever doing bridging or short layers (time-wise). However, it seems to be speeding up the fan a little while (10-15 seconds) before getting to that layer, and also slowing it back down before the layer is finished. As far as I can tell from the gcode, tby jstck - Ormerod
I took a slightly different approach to the cooling, with two fans riding with the hotend, and this fan duct: It's a modified version of dc42's one-piece fanduct, where I just cut a hole in the side to let the air off the hotend heatsink out (and a small flap to keep it from blowing down on the print). I also blocked the ports to the "exhaust nozzles" in the bottom, and instead cut a hole inby jstck - Ormerod
PLA works fine. I think that's what they are designed for, it gives plenty of "springiness".by jstck - Ormerod
If you're not in a hurry to get them, you can find MR93ZZ or 623 bearings for cheap on ebay from China / Hong Kong (a couple euros/pounds/dollars for a pack of 10). Is the black stringy stuff possibly a rubber seal from the bearing, or just some hair that might have gotten dragged in, greased up, and spit out? As long as the bearing turns smoothly it should run fine for now, but if a rubber sealby jstck - Ormerod
Well, I guess some people can easily adapt their "workflow" to fit what the software can do, but at least for me it would be of great help sometimes to see exactly which .stl files went into Slic3r, and the timestamp when they were read (or the timestamp of the file at the time it was read). I often have several versions of a file, and different sliced versions of it. Most of the time I can keepby jstck - Slic3r
Just checked the git repo on a whim, and it seems the Ormerod 2 parts are all there since just a few hours ago.by jstck - Ormerod
QuoteKORYBA all used filenames + paths which had been used for the particular gcode This particular piece of information is not in the gcode file (as far as I can see), and at least to me that would be highly useful. I often have several gcode files sliced from different versions/revisions of an STL, and knowing the filename and timestamp it was read would be very helpful in some cases.by jstck - Slic3r
All my problems disappeared after some fw / web ui upgrade, but I'm not quite sure which one. Haven't seen that issue in a while. I used the proxy a couple of times when I was trying some web ui hacks (much easier to edit on a server than uploading files to the Duet). Which FW/web ui version are you on? Do you get any error messages in the browser console? Fiddling with MTU (changing it from anby jstck - Ormerod
What did you use to create the first bit of gcode that was fine? I don't think it's the retractions itself that are "wrong", but the fact that it seems to chop the wall up into several segments instead of printing as one continuous line. Might have something to do with the model being slightly more or less than 0.5mm wide (which also depends on "at what angle" you measure it). In any case, thisby jstck - Ormerod
There might be multiple things going wrong. In all the snowmen except the leftmost one, it looks like it has been skipping in the X direction. Does that happen when it gets caught in the print, or just during "regular printing"? The latter might be due to some acceleration bugs in earlier firmware versions. Regarding Z homing, the thing is you have to get it right in a fairly tight window (not tby jstck - Ormerod
1) Have you checked that the nut travels smoothly along the threaded rod? If that is not lubricated and clean, dirt and crap can get in the threads and wear it down, and often causing it to jam in specific locations. 2) The stock IR sensor is a bit tricky to get running right, but I never had such big difficulties with it. You should check the sensor reading (with the G31 command) when the probeby jstck - Ormerod
I don't really suffer from it (especially given the workaround of just having a gcode file there), just thought I'd call it in. Btw what will you do once you are past version 0.78z?by jstck - Ormerod
Probable bug, not sure how long it has been in there: If there are no files in the gcodes directory on the SD card, the web ui will give the following error in the console: Uncaught TypeError: Cannot read property 'files' of undefined 192.168.0.14/js/reprap.js:853 Also the various bits of information in the web UI won't update (temperature numbers + graph, coordinates etc) will not update, theby jstck - Ormerod
It's probably the filament scratching against the inside of the long hole bending upward, that the filament is fed through before getting to the actual feeding parts. A lot of people have had that and eventually it might wear through the plastic. It is a rather annoying sound, and in some cases it causes a lot of additional friction, meaning the extruder has to work harder and has "less push" avaby jstck - Ormerod
I bought one of the cheapest ones, so it's probably a low-quality knockoff. Seems to work, will see how it does over time. If it is just a problem with the PTFE liner, I guess that is reasonably simple to replace.by jstck - Ormerod
QuoteVortyZA What would be the advantage of 3mm over 1.75mm? Depends mostly on what hardware or filament you already have, as it is easier to stick to one size. Also some specialized filament types may only be available in one size or the other. While extruders and hotends need to be designed a little bit differently, both work just as well. QuotemuggiWhat are the advantages of a j-head compareby jstck - Ormerod
I think most extruders can be adapted for a bowden tube with those push-in fittings. In any case, if you have the hardware there are lots of models available to print out to make a bowden extruder drive.I didn't know you could just insert a liner to use 1.75mm filament in a 3mm hotend, but maybe that would work. A PTFE tube with 3mm outer and 2mm inner diameter (same kind of tubing as the filamenby jstck - Ormerod