I know, but just figuring out the proper thermistor parameters and heater PID values is tricky enough...by jstck - Ormerod
I would expect them to appear in the github repo, but it seems it has not yet been updated.by jstck - Ormerod
The thermistor and heater in the J-head are perfectly fine, it just needs a little bit of tuning. In my case it works well enough by just raising the print temperature value by 10-15 degrees. And while the hotend heats up slower than the stock one, it is still way quicker than the heated bed and therefore not really a practical problem. Overall, it was easier to get it running than I expected. Iby jstck - Ormerod
QuoteAmsterdammanAnyone using the herringbone gears shown in #3 photo above? They seem a better system. I do, as do many others. The original ones in my case a bit of backlash (some play when they rotate, you can basically wiggle one of them back and forth a bit without the other moving). While it was small, it could potentially have some effect when doing auto bed levelling and the Z axis movby jstck - Ormerod
OpenSCAD exports to a few formats (STL, OFF, DXF, CSG), but I have never used anything but STL which is as close to a "standard model format" as you can get in 3D printing. I would think most programs that can read IGES could import any of those other formats. I made the fan duct and sensor pad in Sketchup, the fan duct since I only had an STL to work with and the sensor pad (which is parametricby jstck - Ormerod
If you moved it, chances are you need to redo the bed levelling / z homing. Even though the first layer stays in place on the bed, it might be that the head is too high and the second layer won't stick to the first. That arc consisting of straight lines looks like it could have "fallen off" and been dragged inside the corner. Also, you should check the gcode file in something like gcode.ws to maby jstck - Ormerod
For no other reason than "to see how it would work out", I decided to make a mount for the commonly found J-head hotend to fit the Ormerod. I got one for a different 3D printer project, and since I had some blockage issues with my original hotend I decided to give this a shot. Result is here. I got a cheap J-head hotend from Ebay a while back, as far as I can tell it is a Mk V nozzle holder andby jstck - Ormerod
Yeah, I'd use only a small drop of glue to keep the nut from moving about under normal operations. It needs to be able to pop out if the weight comes off it and it it still turned downwards.by jstck - Ormerod
Just to clarify, it's this section we're talking about, right? The little plastic part with a couple of small bearings that run along the Z aluminium extrusion and screws onto the acrylic X-axis plate. I don't remember having any particular problems with that, but there were a few places where I had to file at some holes or edges to make everything fit right. That was for fractions of a millimetby jstck - Ormerod
1. I have also seen some rust on the outside of the linear bearings, and also on the steel rods for the Y axis outside of the travel of the carriage. Unless you buy much more expensive steel, even "stainless" steel can get a little bit of rust. It is only on the surface and you can clean it off very easily if you think it looks bad. The outside of the linear bearings do not need to be very smoothby jstck - Ormerod
When printing PLA on glass, I've mostly used glue stick which has worked well enough. Otherwise, if I have something where the bottom layer is in any way complex or sensitive, I use blue painters tape. Works perfect, way better than any other method I have tried, and has a lot more tolerance for Z homing being a bit off, or bed being a bit uneven. Only downside is it takes a minute or two to coveby jstck - Ormerod
Slic3r will put the object on the XY-plane, no matter what is the "lowest Z" in the model. That does mean though that if there is some tiny little bit sticking down under what is supposed to be the bottom, the actual model can start "above Z=0", which will of course ruin it. As for the holes, they often come out a bit smaller than what is in the model, and how much depends a lot on your printerby jstck - Ormerod
I have seen others have the same problem, things being copied without the attribution required by the license (the vast majority of things there being licensed under CC BY-SA). However, I do think taking the original things down is the wrong way to go about the problem. It does nothing to change the fact that the non-attributed copies are there, and it makes them be visible as "the only ones", maby jstck - Ormerod
QuoteantlvkStill very confused Not sure how to assist without more specifics.by jstck - Ormerod
As I mentioned, if it is just some dirt or ptfe shavings or something, you might be able to get them out by inserting and retracting the filament (melting it and trying to have it "grab stuff"). I had overheated my hotend badly (from having the thermistor pop out of the heater block) and badly damaged the PTFE liner, but I just took it out, scraped the inside of the nozzle carefully with a drillby jstck - Ormerod
I had something similar happen, due to a blocked nozzle causing issues with feeding. I had it happen a while back due to some shavings from the bowden tube getting stuck in there, and recently because I managed to overheat and melt the PTFE liner inside the hotend. No matter what tension I had in the spring-loaded extruder (or with the regular one), it would start slipping and the hobbed insert wby jstck - Ormerod
I think bringing things like the extruder ("tool"=T) numbering in line between different firmware branches is long-term the only sane thing to do. Short-term it does cause some confusion having to update config, but that has always been clearly stated in release notes. Long-term, there would be the same kind of confusion "forever", and the longer you wait to do changes like this, the greater theby jstck - Ormerod
Quotesevenljy Could you tell me where the standard IR Z probe is? It's the little circuit board that sits on the side of the X carriage (to one side of the hotend assembly), with a 3-wire connection to the Duet. Mentioned here, called "proximity sensor". If that isn't set up properly, neither X nor Z homing will work as it should.by jstck - Ormerod
When I've printed with "ABS juice", I just applied it with a piece of a regular cleaning sponge, which creates a pretty rough but still flat surface. Lately when doing ABS I have used a glue stick, that has worked well enough and is less messy to apply (and can also be applied while the bed is a bit warmer, between prints). A large brim (4-10mm depending on model) has always done the trick, and wby jstck - Ormerod
I've had similar things happen but not so severe as to ruin the print. I fiddled around a bit non-scientifically with it, and I think it got better by reducing print speed and slightly lowering hotend temperature (the lower speed giving it more time to cool off and solidify before next pass). In this case, you could try adding a thin support wall along/under each "arm" that can then be trimmed oby jstck - Ormerod
First off, what Duet firmware are you using? The "preferred" way of controlling the heater in modern firmware versions is the G10 command (such as "G10 P1 S185 R0" for 185°C), together with a T1 command to "select" the extruder. The M104 command is deprecated, but still works but in newer Duet firmware versions the T1 command is required. The G92 Z0 command won't do any probing or moving the heaby jstck - Ormerod
If the problem is the nut being off-center, then maybe the driven gear can be redesigned so the nut trap allows for that, and have the threaded rod go further down (or move the nuts up a bit) and have the rod center itself with respect to the gear. Not sure how to make such a nut trap / hole without backlash though, other than filling it up with epoxy.by jstck - Ormerod
I'll start by rigging tcpdump (never got capturing inside wireshark to work well on mac, but tcpdump does the same thing) for next time I do a longer-running print and save it if something "breaks".by jstck - Ormerod
It is very difficult to make any kind of scientific measurement on it. It happened for most "long running prints" on the earlier firmware I was on (0.78e I think it was, and whatever web ui was current at the time). I think it has happened once or twice since I upgraded to 0.78i a couple days ago, but I haven't been surprised by the frequency of it. A guess of mine is that the difference betweenby jstck - Ormerod
As for powering the board, most people run it off the 12V supply via the on-board 5V regulator. There are a couple of jumpers on the Duet to control where it gets power from. If you want to run it off the 12V supply (as most do), you put a jumper on the "5V_EN" connector, near the bed heater ribbon cable connector. Described in the docs here. Regarding the web ui, in the last few versions I haveby jstck - Ormerod
I have never had any such drastic changes to temperature throughout firmware upgrades (from the original fw that shipped from reprappro through all of dc42's versions), except a weird glitch I had a couple weeks back when hotend temperatures read about 20-30° too high. That went away on its own though, I suspect a bad connection or something. Overall, it does sound like something is a bit wonky.by jstck - Ormerod
You need to specify --port=cu.usbmodemfd141 as an option to bossac (--port should be equivalent to -p). I never had much luck with the autoscan thing. Bear in mind that the Duet will get a different device name depending on what USB port you plug it into.by jstck - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974why not go straight for an alu one? I would guess cost. There is still a point in keeping the "base kit" cheap.by jstck - Ormerod
You should get the a recent version of the corresponding web interface as well.by jstck - Ormerod
Looks like a nice "Mk II" upgrade, as it fixes most of the teething problems of the Ormerod 1 (as I predict the "old Ormerod" will henceforth be called). Bed support and levelling, Y belt tensioning and IR sensor stability seem to be the things most new Ormerod users have had problems with. Quotedc42 - Duet board looks the same, however the 5V supply is now provided by an external linear regulatby jstck - Ormerod