Carbon fiber has very good heat transfer properties which would "soak the heat away", so it would probably require a lot of very hot filament to damage the resin. The hotend nozzle however could possibly "melt a hole" on the surface. Epoxies have a very wide range of glass transition temperatures (Tg), varying between 50 and 250°C, so it would depend a lot on which type you have in that sheet. Anby jstck - Ormerod
Looks like both X and Y axis are skipping steps. Most common is that the Y belt isn't tight enough and teeth are skipping past the pulley. Best way to fix that is to print iamburny's belt clamps. But that would just cause skips in one direction. Another cause is that the Y and/or X axis isn't moving freely, and the friction is too much for the stepper motor which will start skipping. This usuallby jstck - Ormerod
You can have it just extrude a centimeter or two in mid-air (above the "parking position") before it goes back to printing, that should fix that issue.by jstck - Ormerod
I haven't heard about anyone here trying it, but it should be pretty straightforward. After the desired print height just after it finishes a layer, insert some G-code to move the head out of the way and wait for you to insert whatever bits need to go in there. It does not seem like the M226 command is implemented, but it might be that M25 works just as well (and then manually type in a M24 to reby jstck - Ormerod
QuotedmouldYes - that's why I stated that the pitch will not *of itself* make a difference. That's a rather confusing way of putting it, I think. No matter what, pi*pulley_diameter=tooth_pitch*pulley_tooth_count, and knowing any two will give the third. The tooth pitch does make a difference in that it dictates what kind of pulley you can use, and that usually gives you the tooth count but onlyby jstck - Ormerod
1, Change the nut and rod. Probably one of them had some section of crappy thread or some dirt that caused it, or maybe it wasn't lubricated, but with that amount of metal shavings coming out both are probably badly worn by now. Mine wasn't nearly so rough as to cause the motor to skip, but it was making a lot of noise and had some metal shavings come out of it. I replaced it with a stainless sby jstck - Ormerod
It all ends up being the same thing, but tooth pitch * number of teeth is probably more well-defined than pulley circumference.by jstck - Ormerod
It may or may not be level, but it looks just as if the head is too low. The nozzle presses against the bead and the filament can't come out, until enough pressure is built up and literally lifts the nozzle and it comes out in an uneven blob.by jstck - Ormerod
Yeah, the bed level compensation is supposed to keep the nozzle at the same height over the bed, by varying the "absolute height" (using the Z axis) to compensate for any tilt in the bed. Is the error growing linearly, i.e. if it is 0.2mm wrong in one end, is it then 0.1mm off in the middle? If so, then the bed compensation is probably not done quite right. I never had much luck with the auto beby jstck - Ormerod
Sounds like the bed level compensation is doing what it should, what is the problem really? Is it that the Z homing is off after you've done bed compensation?by jstck - Ormerod
I haven't used pronterface in a while, but it might be that the firmware changed the output of the "temperature status" into something that pronterface cannot parse (it expects a numeric value and gets something else). That should not matter for homing though, as that is done entirely in the printer. Sounds like you use the stock IR sensor (and not one of dc42's upgrades), is that correct? If yby jstck - Ormerod
The M92 command should be just what you need. You use that to set the number of stepper motor drive steps per mm of movement. An example command to set the default values would be M92 X87.4890 Y87.4890 Z4000 E420 Just put the appropriate command in config.g, and that should do it.by jstck - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quotejstck I then took the thermocouple thing that came with the same cheap multimeter, and the best reading I could get was in the corner between the heater block and the brass nut around the nozzle. If you have the simple wire-ended type of thermocouple, you can remove the filament and unclip the Bowden tube from the extruder, then feed the thermocouple down the Bowden tube until iby jstck - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I've made a start on laying out the display. Here is my current attempt: ... Suggestions for improving the layout would be welcome. For one thing, unless you have several identical printers lined up, I think displaying the printer name is quite unnecessary (while it does look nice). Also, while the print is running, I don't think displaying X and Y coordinates is very useful. I've seenby jstck - Ormerod
Almost as much as I hate things not working without being able to figure out why, I hate problems that just go away with no explanation... I measured the voltage at the hotend board, and it is exactly 3.3V (the difference is less than the tolerance of my multimeter). Both the cartridge heater and the thermistor where in their proper places. My heater is actually glued to the heater block (a smalby jstck - Ormerod
A couple days ago, a weird problem showed up that I am not sure how to best deal with. A print failed due to filament slipping (the hobbed insert grinding through it), and the infill it had done was really ugly. This was with ABS, but after taking the hotend apart and cleaning out the nozzle (suspecting some blockage, none found) I switched to PLA and printed again. Same thing (a bit less likelyby jstck - Ormerod
At that price, yes, definitely.by jstck - Ormerod
In any case, 0.5mm2 is way thicker than the thermistor wires (which I guess are somewhere around 0.1mm2), the actual crimp tool for those connectors is a different one (that I know is not sold at Biltema). I tried using a "proper" crimp tool for such connectors/cables on a different project, I think it was referred to as a "Dupont crimping tool". While I was inexperienced using it, I didn't thinby jstck - Ormerod
I think one of the LEDs on the power PCB is for the +5VSB (stand-by) power, which is on even if the ATX PSU is in "off" state, and that might be the LED you have on. Try disconnecting the PSU from the power PCB, and first measure if you have +5VSB (measure between purple and black, of course with the PSU connected and the switch turned on). Then, try to turn on the PSU by connecting PS_ON (greenby jstck - Ormerod
I had that happen a lot in the beginning, since I had forgot to install the idler bearing (that the hobbed insert pushes the filament against to get grip). Assuming you assembled it correctly, other reasons for the extruder drive slipping include too fast extrusion speeds, too low hotend temperature, or a blockage somewhere. If you turn the extruder gear manually (turn hotend heat on, but turn moby jstck - Ormerod
I guess the patent in question is US8153182 (if I decoded the patent language correctly). I can't find any non-US patent similar to it, but Stratasys have a crapload of European patents/patent applications.by jstck - Ormerod
I think you are only prohibited by the patent from selling / distributing the actual "invention", but it might be that distributing drawings / stl files / schematics are covered. Might be somewhat of a legal gray-zone. I do know that source code for LZW compression (used in for example GIF/TIFF image compression) was widely available as open source code long before the Unisys patent expired, butby jstck - Ormerod
I have no real advice on how to compile Slic3r from source, but if the information in the manual isn't sufficient you will probably have more luck asking in the Slic3r group.by jstck - Ormerod
I have occasionally done supports by adding 0.5mm thick "extra walls" (just thin rectangular blocks) that touch the object. On horizontal surfaces they snap off easily, on other surfaces you might need to trim it off with a file or knife. Edit: To clarify, by "touch" I actually mean "intersect".by jstck - Ormerod
Quoteantlvk basiucally X zero position wont be at the parking spot right? If you by "parking spot" mean the top left corner, then it actually should be. After homing, In my case, the nozzle is right over the corner of the glass (a few mm in from the edge of the aluminium heatspreader. However, I don't have the stock IR sensor (but the dc42 one), which maybe changes X homing a little bit.by jstck - Ormerod
With steel M6 screws, tapping into aluminium is pretty easy. If you don't have stainless screws, you might want to have a "sacrificial screw" to use as a tap, and just be a bit careful not to overtighten as it is easy to completely strip the threads. I at least wouldn't pay someone £1.10 per hole to do that for me...by jstck - Ormerod
Quotex4FF3 is this normal, that slic3r only creates one perimeter? It is, if slic3r settings are to just do one perimeter, or if you have the "spiral vase" option checked (both in print settings -> layers and perimeters, "vertical shells" section). It will also do just one perimeter if the wall of the object is too thin to fit more.by jstck - Ormerod
(I wonder why i keep doing this, quoting myself instead of editing)by jstck - Ormerod
Don't think there is any guide for this, but for looking up gcode commands in general, I go here. Anyway, something similar to this stuff: M564 S0 ;Temporarily allow duet to think outside the box G1 X-17 Y212 ;Go to whatever coordinates put the head over the top-left corner of the bed G92 X0 Y200 ;Define that position to be (0,200), which is the normal boundary M564 S1 ;Reenable range safetiesby jstck - Ormerod
As long as the movement of the Ormerod covers the whole bed, you can just change the homing macros (homex/homey/homeall.g) to compensate. Easiest way might be to just tell it to go to whatever coordinates are over a certain position (such as the [0,200] corner) after homing, as shown in the web ui when you manually move there, and then just give a G92 command to make those the coordinates you wanby jstck - Ormerod