Pretty much the same as Steve, except I am using 190/185 & 65/60. Getting much better results than with the higher temps I started with. Also make sure there is no overlap in the Kapton tape if you use it. As it says in the docs, it is much better to have small gaps. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown Big Blue (The BackWash free Fan-Duct), has been revised and released (Mk3Rev2) on ThingiVerse. A major redraw has been done, and the Fan-Duct is now printed Verically. If you deside to print Big Blue, use a low temp around 180'c for the HotEnd, and a 10mm Brim to help hold the Duct on the table while printing. On the test print I also tried the Wipe on Retract for the first time witby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 QuotePointy My web interface is suddenly acting weird. I have printed a few bits today without issue, but now it wont upload to the SD card. As soon as I select a file the machine goes haywire moving all over the place! Any ideas what is going on. (I have powered down completely several times & Pronterface is working fine) Regards, Les Not enough data: 1. Which web interface vby Pointy - Ormerod
QuoteGregL Is there an upgrade for the x-carriage? Recently, my one seems to have lost its grip on the bearing. Several failures resulting from a positive X movement causing the carriage to leave the bearing behind, and the head to crash onto the print. I suspect the carriage has softened/relaxed with the heat. Need some sort of clamp/catch to hold the bearing in place. Greg There was an old disby Pointy - Ormerod
My web interface is suddenly acting weird. I have printed a few bits today without issue, but now it wont upload to the SD card. As soon as I select a file the machine goes haywire moving all over the place! Any ideas what is going on. (I have powered down completely several times & Pronterface is working fine) Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Hi guys, Any idea what the total 12v draw is? I got the 30amp supply from Ebay (it was only a quid dearer than the 25amp one) and I am trying to decide the best fittings/cable to use. I guessed from DC's github page that he was using one of these. They are 20amp, which suggests the total draw is less than that. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
What's the long term verdict on these DC? Are you still using them? I would really like to get rid of the bulldog clips, I had a close call with the sensor today and was lucky not to do any damage.(I think I am going to print Kim's sensor cover next!) Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotejohneato Here you go Les. If you want the angle adjusting let me know John Thanks John. Quotedc42 There should be no gap between the heatsink duct and the fan duct, so I suggest you look into what is causing that. You can also sand a little off the bottom of the fan duct. It's actually just a gap in one corner, I think the pieces aren't quite square. I'll print John's nozzle mount andby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotejohneato I agree with DC there should be play in the x-axis.. At one point my axis was binding due to it being too tight causing steps to be missed. You can have any amount of play as long as the print head is not drooping. I redesigned the nozzle mount so that the mounting face was slightly angled up so even with the pint head drooping the head sat horizontal. If anyone is interested I canby Pointy - Ormerod
Sorry for sounding stupid, but was is the correct procedure to cancel a print from the web interface? I always seem to end up with an unresponsive page and have to switch the printer off and on again. Regards, :Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974But will it be actioned if printed as suggested? As it's just a bunch of gcodes , yes. No different than sending then one code at a time. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Looks useful! Can you post the STL and/or openscad file? I used Google Sketchup to make it, so I have zipped the skp file and attached it along with the stl. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Just in case anyone wondered what that part was I printed in the 2nd picture. Attached is a photo of it in place. This version is slightly tweaked, as I didn't need the cutout for the LED when using white PLA. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Just got some feeler gauges and there is 0.20mm play between the bearing and X axis plate. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Hi Guys, What's the process of changing filament? Do you heat up the extruder and then retract the original. Then just insert the new and extrude until the new colour comes out? Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
QuoteMarc van Beelen Hi Kim, I tried a horizontal reel holder for 1 kg filament. I used a ballbearing and it rolled very very smooth, too smooth I guess since the filmanet got jammed several times. You need some resistance to keep the filament fixed on the reel. I switched to vertical movement, no ball bearing (could install them, will test is later) but for now it works fine for me. In case youby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 There should be some play in the x axis runner. The important thing is that the print head is horizontal, not sagging. To achieve this, you may need to print the improved nozzle mount as well as using the 10mm bearing. I don't think it's far off level now, the bottom of the fan duct doesn't drag in the print any more with the new bearing. I don't think I have any feeler gauges to measuby Pointy - Ormerod
Quoteonno. I assume RRP has its reasons for not including all changes and/or fixes, but I hope it doesn't discourage you from future development work where you deem that necessary. I can tell that your efforts are certainly appreciated. I second that! Quotedc42Now that I've reached z, it's probably time I gave up making firmware improvements anyway. You should only stop if you don't enjoy doinby Pointy - Ormerod
7 hours! Sorry I can't offer any constructive help Dave, but that looks pretty good from the photo. I would say that 1.8-1.9 is good, however I am curious if people really getting or expecting to get pinpoint accuracy with this machine? Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
The 10mm bearings arrived yesterday, so I replaced the 9mm one on the X carriage. This meant I could get rid of the piece of plastic I had taped on, which has got rid of then nasty squeaky noise I had. There is still a tiny bit of play but hopefully a modified X carriage will sort that out. Having solved my printing problem I can get on and print some upgrade parts, and when the rest of the partby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42The bed thermistor measures the temperature under the bed, which will be greater than on the top surface of the glass. With the bed thermistor reading 65C, after several minutes I get 56C on the top surface. Thanks DC, Sounds like I am not too far off then, I obviously expected some difference, but wasn't sure if it should be that much Regards, Les.by Pointy - Ormerod
Hi, The X axis should go back and almost touch the threaded rod. If not then it sounds like there is a problem with you sensor connections. (I forgot to reconnect mine earlier after some maintenance, and the X axis only moved a small amount and then stopped) Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
I found out the source of all my problems today. That pesky little nozzle thermistor had slipped half out, so my temps were way off. (Which explains the inconsistency) I hope I have fixed that problem by bending the legs as shown in the first pic. Second pic shows yesterdays deformed, blobtastic, stringfest along side today's effort. (A slight difference ) 3rd, 4th and 5th pics are another 3 sby Pointy - Ormerod
I have managed to print a few bits with success but at the moment I am struggling to get consistent results. I managed to print the new nozzle mount which solved the problem of the sensor board being lower than the nozzle. I then noticed that the bottom of the fan was lower than the nozzle, which I think is referred to as head sag. There was a lot of play between the back MR93ZZ bearing and X Riby Pointy - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Another upgrade I will recommend, Thank You Simon / Number 192! From this: To this: Erik Thanks for the replies guys but I should have known it was optimistic to ask about what to print before it was up and running! Anyway after a day of messing about it is finally printing the orthogonal axis compensation test pieces, but the above piece may solve the first problem I hby Pointy - Ormerod
Hi Guys, I have almost finished building my Ormerod and I am hoping to start printing over the weekend. As I only have the filament that came with the kit I don't want to waste it printing rubbish and would rather print some sensible upgrade parts. So in order of importance what would you suggest I print? (What do you think has made the biggest improvement) I already have the aluminium bed froby Pointy - Ormerod
Hi Guys, As I had already been browsing these forums and already spoken to Davek0974 on another forum, I ordered the bed upgrade at the same time as my Ormerod. I have just finished the build today but I am a little confused as to how best to do the heated bed. There seems to be several different variations on here, with some people not using the cardboard or aluminium plate and others puttingby Pointy - Ormerod