Here you go... ;turn on 12v ;M80 ; turn on extruder M104 S190 ; set to Relative Positioning G91 ; move up 5mm G1 Z5 F2000 ; set to Absolute Positioning G90 ; move to 100, 100 G1 X100 Y100 F2000 ; wait for extruder to reach temperature M109 S190 ; move Z to -200 and trigger switch G1 Z-200 F100 S1 ; zero Z G92 Z0 ; move back up 0.5 G1 Z0.5 F200 ; zero Z G92 Z0 With the M80 commented out it workby Pointy - Ormerod
Sorry DC, I don't use openscad, but it very simple. It's a 4mm cylinder 7mm high, centred on top is a 2mm x 0.5mm cross 3mm high. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
The 2nd attempt printed great, but I made a major mistake with the design. I tried to add more meat around the back of the bearing without think about the clearance to the vertical aluminium profile, and when I tried to home the X axis the carriage crashed into it. After a quick tweak and re-print it fits good and clears the profile... Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Using Slic3r 1.01 they did finally print, although they came out terrible. The cross on top was more of a blob. If anyone else fancies trying to print these and is successful, please let me know what settings you are using.(They only take about 6 minutes to print) Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Hi DC, Just upgraded to 65e this morning and my homez is causing the duet to reboot. I narrowed it down to the M80 command I had at the beginning of the file. EDIT: Just tried to print and it will not extrude, gone back to 59 and its working. Has something major changed that requires my config files or gcode to be modified? EDIT2: DOH! I should have read the full post properly. Quote* You musby Pointy - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 Les, try reverting back to slic3r-1.1.3, I have been having problems with 1.1.4 so it might help your issue Thanks for the suggestion but I think I was on 1.1.3 and then tried upgrading to 1.1.4. I just tried 1.01 and the gcode looks okay. I will know for sure when I try and print it tomorrow. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Which version of slic3r are you using, and what do you have the extrusion width set to? I am using 1.1.4 and I have tried 0.5 and 0.3mm Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Hi Guys, I know this is not really Ormerod specific but I am sure someone knows the answer to this. I am trying to print a couple of trim pot shafts that have a thin 0.5mm cross on the top of a 4mm cylinder. The stl looks fine in slicer but it doesn't output any gcode for the cross part. It just ouputs z moves... G1 Z7.200 F3000.000 G1 Z7.440 F3000.000 G1 Z7.680 F3000.000 G1 Z7.920 F3000.000 Gby Pointy - Ormerod
I finally got round to fitting the new Igus aluminium rod and bearing and it has made a huge difference. As the bearing is a different size it means a new X carriage is required, and I am currently printing a new design that has the nozzle mount built in... My first attempt failed as it didn't print the cut out for the bowden tube very well, which is why I added some supports. I'll let you knoby Pointy - Ormerod
I was always having issues with my probe connector so I soldered the wires directly to the pins and covered them in heatshrink. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Not trying to pinch your business Dave but if anyone wants one of your aluminium beds and you don't have any, mine is for sale. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Hi soundsk , Personally I don't think the Ormerod would be strong enough without some serious modifications.The belt drive and motors on the Ormerod might just about do for etching the tracks and drilling but not sure about milling out the final PCB. I have a cheapo CNC 3020 that I got from fleebay, you can see some of my mods I have made on my blog. I only really use it for making PCB's and itby Pointy - Ormerod
iamburny started compiling a parts list here (There are different category links right at the bottom) Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
You can use the ATX control if you are using the standard ATX PSU. I have made my own PSU control for use with a stand alone 12v supply, all this does is switch off the 12v 2 minutes after a print finishes. It does have a thermistor close to the output wires so it may prevent this from happening, but wouldn't help if the fault was on the input side. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
QuoteTONYR It may be that the cartridge heater wiring allowed the feed wires to short across the Al block. There are marks from the Z axis threaded rod on the sleeving for the cartridge heater which points to contact and perhaps pushing of the heater further into the Al block. My heat protective sleeving had started to split on one of my heater wires, right around the crimp connector, so I haveby Pointy - Ormerod
QuoteVortyZA Thanks for the comments - MasonStonehenge is my 'alt' on thingiverse I've updated the design a little last night. I'd be willing to widen the hole for the PTFE liner - just need to see if there's enough space as it is, otherwise might need the thicken the extruder slightly. I've found it's very effective for smoothing the action of a slightly inaccurate gear (10ths of a mm), it alsby Pointy - Ormerod
I don't know what version you are using but the latest 1.1.2 experimental is much faster at generating gcode, and I have not had any issues with it so far. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Here's the stl's for anyone that's interested. A few things to note... I have a non standard bed so the Y axis part is no good for anyone else. The 9mm hub I haven't printed but it should be ok I have the aluminium X Rib/Plate but it should work for the acrylic part too. I have only done a couple of hours printing, so I am not sure how long these will last. To use on the X axis do the followingby Pointy - Ormerod
Here's a picture of the corrosion on the bearing... Yes I know this is only the outside, but maybe a similar thing is going on on the inside. Anyway I decided to get the Igus Drylin bearing and I am also going to replace the X axis shaft with the Igus aluminium one. I have tweaked the X carriage to make it 40mm long and also have a 22mm opening for the new bearing. I'll keep you posted. Reby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I think the bearings are designed only for continual linear motion, not rotary motion. If your x-plate is flat then there should be very little rotary motion. You are probably right DC, they do slide along the shaft. If you have the original Ormerod Y carriage with the bed just resting on the front bearing, try this. Lift the bed off the front bearing and see if you can spin the bearby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotestom Hi, thank you for the quick response and sry for my late answer, bacause of my work i am not often at home at the moment! I have read your suggestions. So i wanted do measure the Voltage on the four pins of my Sensor. During this, i have noticed that the contact of my blue and the black wire are connected trough the joint. That should not be? Thanks Stom No they should not be joby Pointy - Ormerod
Thanks for the links Dario. (I am in UK for future reference) What did you replace the LM12LUU with? The LM 12 UU in that pdf is only 30mm long. As I am probeless I could shorten the X carriage to 40mm, but I am not sure if it would be a good idea to overhang the bearing. I just had a look at my original Y carriage shafts and bearings and boy are they poor quality. Both the shafts and bearingsby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 QuotePointy Strange I can't replicate it now, and I don't have the original file any more. I do know that I just renamed it and it uploaded ok in lower case. If it happens again I'll keep the file. Did you also reset the Duet before uploading it again? I turned it off as soon as it started moving. I don't think I attempted uploading it again before I renamed it, so I don't know if itby Pointy - Ormerod
I have been modding away at my Ormerod since the day I built it and I am really happy with the results. I am finally starting to get good consistent results. The one thing that's annoying me at the moment though, is the noise from my X axis. It groans and whines quite a lot, mainly from the Z screw to the middle. I have tried oiling the shaft and messing with the belt tension but it has made noby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Les, I renamed one of my files to Z Nut Trap.gcode and it uploaded without problem. So I suspect it was something else that caused the upload to fail. Can you try uploading that file under its original name again? I took a look at the code in case there were characters other than G that were likely to cause problems, but the only one I found was '*' which is not allowed in file names aby Pointy - Ormerod
Did you find out anything about the naming bug DC? For now i have been naming everything in lower case and not had any problems since. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuotePointy...This got me thinking. (dangerous I know) I don't have access to a lathe so came up with a printed part... Good thinking! - plenty of room for that with your fine build, me I had to work with the limited space of the original design so made it out of metal - and I can't 3D model, I have been playing around with OpenSCAD a bit but I don't think my brain likes it at alby Pointy - Ormerod
I tweaked the design a bit and added a filament guide.... I have attached a version without the guide too, in case you don't like the idea. If you are going to use the one with the guide, clean out the small hole with a 2mm drill, and then carefully clean up the other side with a 3mm drill.(Don't go too far, it should go in 5mm) As stated above I am probeless so not sure if this would interfeby Pointy - Ormerod
This got me thinking. (dangerous I know) I don't have access to a lathe so came up with a printed part... Open with a 10mm bearing inside... Closed. (I will probably glue the pieces together)... One fitted to my Y belt idler. (you can see my Y belt has started to chaff when using just the bearing)... I have a washer either side and the screw is held in place with a nyloc nut so I can slackenby Pointy - Ormerod
This is my take on the Z Nut Trap piece... It is printed laying down, and I think it printed better and faster It has an 8mm, fully enclosed nut recess.(As you can see from the photo I use a larger Z Nut) Note. I use a microswitch for the X axis and Z axis, which means I am completely probeless. (Not sue if this piece would work with the probe) I am probably going to do some more tweaks asby Pointy - Ormerod