thanks dc, really appreciate you being helpful all the time ill go with the shield thenby redblunt - Ormerod
what would be the advantages between: 1. Duet Shield. Used to be manufactured by RepRapPro. 2. DueX4 expansion board from Think3DPrint3D. are there any but the powerconnnection? would 32A on 12V be enough to run it?by redblunt - Ormerod
thank you guys i contacted emakershop and a new psu is orderedby redblunt - Ormerod
hi guys, i was just about to order a bigger powersupply from rrp. rip now i wanted to know wich specs a new one should have printing abs i seem to expierence heatdrops of the hotend. other question is it still possible to get duet multiprint upgradeßby redblunt - Ormerod
why did i mod it? well more than a year back there were several mods for the fan like kim browns big blue. and one called cathullu or similiar i liked the design and it was one of my first working prints so i wanted to use it of course proud as i was. unfurtunatly i cut off one third of the original aluminium skeleton *stupid* some months ago the fan died and i got two instead: Noiseblocker XM2by redblunt - Ormerod
no not again well i guess ill give a try for an old cpu cooler ill the spareparts reach me i suppose you cant cool too much ?! @dmould i tought of an thermic segregation by using different materials id propably make another mess - so thats off the table thanks you guys helped me learn - againby redblunt - Ormerod
well i can touch the cooling block for several minutes with the topside of my pinky. i hjave a modulated fansystem so i guess ill change it back to normal when i get the parts and ill retry. also thought of decoupling the bowden from the coolingblockby redblunt - Ormerod
well i tried your method kim and came with with the next problem: stuck in reverse gear -.- took the hotend apart for the fithhundred time (wondering when the threads will wear off) and found this: see picture how is that even possible? i messured the hole of the threaded brass union and its about 1.8mm i kinda tend towards enlarging it or will this make all worse? kind regards redby redblunt - Ormerod
ok here is where i loose my mind right now detaching the bowden tube to get te filament out i came up with the idea of pushing filament through the nozzle by hand: this works great but why does it keep on sticking in the hotend ? does it mean the cooling is too good?by redblunt - Ormerod
thanks dave - so i will just order some new ones. do you know another supplier ? RRP is out of stock just in time where i need it :-)by redblunt - Ormerod
hi there i just switched back from ABS to PLA. print started off good. speeding up at the second layer made some loud cracking noises from the extruder. so i checked it out - the extruder keeps on running an grinding but no force in the world can push the filament further. so i took the hotend apart to clean it with aceton worked out pretty well. next try filament stucks again. so tried to revby redblunt - Ormerod
oh i totaly missunderstood "minimum travel after..." ty for clearing it up for me i will change some settings and a little of my object print and the report backby redblunt - Ormerod
thanks guys i just missunderstood minimum travel after retraction you saved me a lot of anger helping meby redblunt - Slic3r
thanks for sharing you should add some of this here: Print Troubleshooting this guide is always very helpful. help making it better ;-) kind regards redby redblunt - Ormerod
hi guys does anyone know wether it is possible to retract and lift on every travel move?? problem is i am printing fila flex and it is very drippy. on 2 seconds of traveling the hotend drips about 12mm of filament kind regards redby redblunt - Slic3r
hi guys after close to 24hours of printing i can give back some report i attached the original fanduct and set my temperature to 230°C noticing that the hotend was loose and dangeling around it also was off by 30° to the z and x axis. the last print worked well till of course at the 2nd last layer the extruder clogged and i had to do a "hot knife" finish. i will print again neyt weekend. 60° Ovby redblunt - Ormerod
printing with the speed of 5mm/s was better still did not finish and on the second layer it startet to "string" againby redblunt - Ormerod
i use printing speeds like 7mm/s it looks pretty slow or might it still be to fast? what is the slowest you can set anyway ? when printing small objects like 5x30mm or smaller i never had this problemby redblunt - Ormerod
Hey guys, i made good experiences with Ninja Flex, now i bought a huge pack of FilaFlex and its really anoying. I like to print a case for my cellphone but the nozzle keeps on ripping filament out like pulling it with it so i never came passed the first layer. im printing at 0.2 first layer and 0.3 other layers. lifting the nozzle only caused blobs on the plate like the hot end saying: " i neeby redblunt - Ormerod
thanks for your help guys now i figured it out: M563 P1 D0 H1 G10 P1 S-273 R-273 those were missing in my config, i didnt notice because i ran the last months configs all without these lines. strange that it worked. Anyways its ready to go now. i appriciate your guys help redby redblunt - Ormerod
i just updated to 1.00g-dc42 HE still not working: 19:14:39 Attempt to set/report offsets and temperatures for non-existent tool: 1 19:13:55 19:13:45 Warning! Ormerod webserver is probably broken, power cycle/reset your Duet Board the sd card is fine i tried sliding it in with a piece of paper, to enhance contact surfaces but still nothingby redblunt - Ormerod
of course i tried changing back to my old config.g but it didnt helpby redblunt - Ormerod
fixed the sd problem by rearanging and updating to 0.78v-dc42 now if i try to heat up the he i get this: Attempt to set/report offsets and temperatures for non-existent tool: 1 but my tool is set to t0, i also tried t1 but still no changeby redblunt - Ormerod
thanks for the hint with the hotend and the steps. in deed my hotend is not warming up - der in no poweroutput on the duet. and i noticed this message: Warning! Ormerod webserver is probably broken, power cycle/reset your Duet Board i will now check the sd card slotby redblunt - Ormerod
hello fellows, i dont know what to so further, my extrusionmotor just wont do anything. the motor seems to be ok. the cable looms are also working. everything works but extruding. all since i updated my config.g. the only thing i changed was the extrusionfactor in it. i didnt messure out if there is any output on the duet to the extruder, because the batteries on my "powermeter" just died. hopeby redblunt - Ormerod
thank you very much G4 P200 200 means wait 200 msby redblunt - Slic3r
hi folks, in my current print project i want to put in premade support while the actual print! so is there a command so the printer head moves away G1 X0 Y0 and waits for e.g 20sec. // Missing the command here so i can put in my support then the printer should finish using the normal gcode. i thought of raising the bedtemperature to let it "wait" but that cant be the best there is. does somby redblunt - Slic3r
-Try infill printing first -and calibrate The extrusion lenght -and axis compensationby redblunt - Ormerod
well they are a tight fit! right now i am fighting with the extruder gears wich must be very accurate - because my otho comp isnt exact enough they bend here and thereby redblunt - Ormerod
have you messured in the right directons? i ahd troubles with that at first made a little graphic to understand it better corret me if im wrong with it the larger the S value is the more exact should be the correctionby redblunt - Ormerod