are your bearings well oiled and the belts tight? i had a problem alike. are the axis of the parts straigth?by redblunt - Ormerod
Must be the huge Temperaturen difference. I always wait for The glass to cool in The Maschine. You must habe shocked The molecule chains Kimby redblunt - Ormerod
i suspect my sd card slot to be corrupted after i exchanged the x-axis my sd card wont load. i can contact the printer via pronterface and make it move tough its giving back a wrong bed temperature. dc42 suggested that the sd card might be worn off. so i tried out others - same result also i tried to put the sd in with a piece of paper davek said there might be bad soldering on the slot. foby redblunt - Ormerod
äh no. my rod wasnt straight. the results of my prints speak for themselves. x-axis is more stable eversince i installed the mod. i didnt put the nuts in very tight there are alsowashers in between. if the forces your refering to are so big that they break the nuttrap your motor is done - exchange it :-) PLA is a little flexible and does also compensate upmoving forces. if im wrong id be glad tby redblunt - Ormerod
Thank you very much dmould i got The Filamente 3 days ago but didnt try it out yetby redblunt - Ormerod
yes those have some upgrades mainly the BEDSUPPORT but its still the same machine i think in the forum here are still better upgrades than ormerod 2 has vs ormerod 1 red/green/.. so dont panic guysby redblunt - Ormerod
just designed and tested a new upper z mount using a 625 2RS bearing, held by two m5 nuts and washers. Reason of this: eliminate momentums eversince i upgraded the tip of the x-axis does not move anymore in y directions.by redblunt - Ormerod
looks very neat can you check wether the heat is transported correctly throug the carbon fiber?by redblunt - Ormerod
for german buyers i can recommend www.pearl.de their filament is pretty good at decent prices. now whos really good : love their filament , you can also get small amounts to simply try out (thats expensive tough). for 1kg rolls they charge about 25€ which would be extrem cheap for what i know, but the quality is still goodby redblunt - Ormerod
delete the codeline in slicer and reslice your object.by redblunt - Ormerod
i would recommend to change the filament feeder before you try out the new filament because of this MasonStonehenges Springloader seems to be the anwsere. i think that carbonfiber filament wlll cut deep into the stock feeder because of the carbon in it. for your bigger bedplate - check out how far the bed can move if you redesign the lower part of your print you might be able to print on the bedby redblunt - Ormerod
thanks for the help guys i think it was a mix of it that went wrong: a. heatbed is saggy -> need a better support maybe the triangle thing, thoutgh i solved this b. comes time comes money then ill maybe get dcs sensor or invent something that dectects analog and digitalizes it like a stick togehter with a contact that only needs 0.01mm to activate c.zeb00 the sensorboard was up enough butby redblunt - Ormerod
thanks so i will basicly throw it away. i checked the nozzle and it seems ok maybe the problem comes from the x carriage. acryl is affected by torsion a lot.by redblunt - Ormerod
hey guys, my z probe often touches the filament. especialy when i do print large objects wich stick with the first layer 10x10cm to the heatbed - sometimes they bulge up while cooling. so my question is the z probe only for homing or does it interact with the z motor while printing. if not id like to remove it beacause i dont see the sense of it. i always home manually over the interface. sby redblunt - Ormerod
hey community, i am looking for someone who owns a filament extruder and is willing to trade in printed or shredded filament against extruded 1.75mm filament on a echange base. the ratio in which to trade i negotiable. kind regards redbluntby redblunt - Wanted
i recliced the file with a higher temperature and set my Z0 at actualy +0.2mm that did it thank youby redblunt - Ormerod
thanks dc that helped. just tried it but now im coming up with a similar problem (other print) might be related the extruder drives konstant but out of the hotend there coming only big blops see picture could this be heat related ? im driving at 190°C and stepped up to 200 but i still get the same resultby redblunt - Ormerod
hello, my last prints start to put too much filament in some of the corners as you can see within the red mark in my picture. the bedlevel is plain. z probe is also calibrated. printing from sd card (fast one). filament extruder also calibrated. so that was where i searched my mistake - but couldnt find anything. i also played around with the layer thickness nothing. best regards moritzby redblunt - Ormerod
i currently had the strangest problems with my printer till one hour ago i bought a new sd card and that fixed all of my connections problemsby redblunt - Ormerod
hey guys one more problem with me: long story short. i bought a new sd card upgraded to the latest version of dcs firmware and webinterface. ran it software seems good. first print over webterminal: print started imidiatly without heating. the extruder cried. started the print again over pronterface same result. preheated bed and extruder: pooping out mountains of plastic anyone came alongby redblunt - Ormerod
welcom dolflombard, from my experience problem in picture: -1306.jpg filament not sticky enough - solution: clean your bed with some alcohol, so no fat from fingers or dust is on (i guess you print on kanton tape); could also be the bed leveling -1308.jpg not enough filament - you might want to adjust your extrusion lenght by software here it would be nice if you could tell how you leveledby redblunt - Ormerod
thank you both i kinda lost a little track about the what where when. now ill try to fine tune it.by redblunt - Ormerod
hi community, after getting a new duet (warranty exchange) and installing the newest of dc42 s firmware. i find my printer running a extra loop on corners the sliced file looks as usual. it also looks like the printer pushes out too much filament in the corner section. did this happen to anyone else? id be happy to hear suggestions best regards redbluntby redblunt - Ormerod
hi Treito, due to the finest resolution is 0.125mm the heigth of your object should be a multiplication by this value. your object is 0.2mm high. if you set slicer the right way you can print it with one layer, but this wont be very stiff. the nozzle diameter is 0.5mm so the width messurements schould be a multiplication of this value: 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm .... at least in theory. i got mulby redblunt - Ormerod
i dont know freecad but i like to use sketchup - it is very easy to use and u will get fast results as long as you dont want to design complex organic thingsby redblunt - Ormerod
at the beginning i printed with 200 / 65 °C now im down to 193 / 60. well about the printing speed the quicker you are the more it will be sloppy. so if you have lots of time go down to 5mm/s :-) usualy i do perimeters with 35 mm/s and they look fine. the print quality is also defined by your model - i noticed if there are to much lines (normals) in there slic3r will think there are differenby redblunt - Ormerod
Jumper its setI will try later but the machine is out of reach for right now thank you for your helpreporting back at somebodysomeday some day someday sunday for them to ,sorry text to speech displays brokenby redblunt - Ormerod
hey no oil pressure, roumors i heard from the support that they are on to it might be out this fall moritzby redblunt - Ormerod
hey community, if come to a point where i think my printer is broken it gives response when its only connected by usb (and rj45 LAN) as soon as i enable the power supply i get no response over pronterface. i unplugged and replugged everything - i contacted support but got no response so far. so im here again in the community to ask: has someone encountered a similar problem regards moritby redblunt - Ormerod