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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: I think I'm Brain Dead - 10 years ago
QuoteKimBrownHaving gone back to DC's 57Y Firmware I can print again.... If you find your having problems I suggest you migrate back to 57Y as it's pretty good...What was your reason to revert to 57y?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Bug Found in Slic3r - 10 years ago
It also wouldn't hurt try try 1.1.0 beta. It doesn't feel quite stable but it fixed a few glitches I was experiencing with 1.0 RCby michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Please get rid of these GIF images - 10 years ago
Which gifs would that be?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Printable Bed plate upgrade - 10 years ago
About that "left belt grip". It has the function of a belt tensioner. What worries me is that the belts entire force goes through that screw using only sideways friction. Slipping, wear and tear seem unavoidable. Is it really reliable in the end?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Printable Bed plate upgrade - 10 years ago
Would you recommend printing these as solid, or with any particular amount of infill?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Big Blue 360 
- 10 years ago
The prints look amazing. May I ask, why is your hotbed black? What's under there?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Replacement ALuminium X-Rib And X-Plate... - 10 years ago
QuoteDavek0974 Ok I will order up another batch, thanks for your interest.Great. Did you ever say what the price would be?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Replacement ALuminium X-Rib And X-Plate... - 10 years ago
For the record, put me up for an x-rib & x-plate :-)by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Replacement Alu bed for those of us with no tools and/or time and/or confidence - 10 years ago
Hello, What is the current status of this? Can I have it shipped to Sweden? It looks like a worthwhile change, since the MDF irritate me every time I turn on the machine.by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Replace PLA with solder? - 10 years ago
Quotecolsenfoto If I can find some 1.75mm solder, I might give it a try. CarstenYou do that... But your machine may be wasted... Make sure to take videos. You may only get one try!by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Replace PLA with solder? - 10 years ago
I love my Ormerod too much to put it through this kind of test, but... What if instead of PLA, Nylon, Wood, Chocolate, you tried regular solder? It has just the right melting temperature. Probably the hot end would grow too hot, along with the cold end, since you would need more energy to melt the wire? But, surely someone must have tried it once!?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Double Helix Extruder Gears - iamburny Style 
- 10 years ago
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try experimenting with the extrusion when the kids have gone to bed.by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Double Helix Extruder Gears - iamburny Style - 10 years ago
Hi, and thanks for the gears. They work great... now... But printing these made me aware of something I wasn't previously. For example, the large gear has a profile for the hex screw head, but the exact dimensions turn out incorrect, and the head simply doesn't fit. I believe it's about 1 mm to small and I have to file it up. The print appear to be good otherwise. It's like I missed a setting inby michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Best User Upgrades? - 10 years ago
Quotedc42 ... and a fan inlet duct such as to eliminate fan backwash and avoid injuring your fingers on the rotating fan blades..The "blades" on this duct appear to be backwards to the fans blades. Assuming this is on purpose, could you please explain the idea behind it? Won't it increase the noise of the airflow? Edit: Nevermind, I realized it wasn't made for my 5 blade fan!by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: New Ormerod Web Interface - WIP - 10 years ago
QuoteSlinBin Quoteonno Can't wait to get home and try it out. I keep wondering what will come after 'z'... æø and å, why do you ask ?You mean... åäö... though it would make most software crazy if you went past ASCII. Even in 2014, sigh...by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Quieting the fan - 10 years ago
Quotedmould There are 3 slots to accommodate a planned upgrade to have 3 extruders and nozzles. With only 1 nozzle fitted you can therefore safely block off the two outer ducts if the airflow is insufficient with a quieter fan, which will increase the flow to the duct you need.That's interesting! Just for fun, I'm going to measure everything with the original gear and do some experiments. Supposby michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Quieting the fan - 10 years ago
Quotedc422. Cooling the print, especially when printing bridges in PLA. This is where a less powerful fan might not work as well.I assume that there has to be some sort of focused airflow so the nozzle itself isn't cooled unnecessarily. If the flow were to be increased I also assume one has to be more careful not blowing air just about anywhere. BTW, there are 2 slits at the top and bottom of thby michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Quieting the fan - 10 years ago
I'll insert a Type K termocoupler in a few places and see how much the fan actually matter. Is there a recommended max temperature in the cold end?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod Web Control v0.67 - 10 years ago
That is very good news dc42. We thank you for your efforts! Looking forward trying it.by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Quieting the fan - 10 years ago
QuoteDavek0974 Quotemichaelljunggren Hmm, considering the design of the original duct, what is it supposed to cool anyway? The heatsink is screwed tightly to the horizontal block the bowden tube is attached to, so perhaps the end of the bowden tube is supposed to be cooled? Is there a risk the filament starts melting "upwards" otherwise?exactly that, there needs to be a sharp transition from coldby michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Quieting the fan - 10 years ago
Hmm, considering the design of the original duct, what is it supposed to cool anyway? The heatsink is screwed tightly to the horizontal block the bowden tube is attached to, so perhaps the end of the bowden tube is supposed to be cooled? Is there a risk the filament starts melting "upwards" otherwise?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Quieting the fan - 10 years ago
Quotebalidey No need in my opinion. A sub £4 40x40x10mm fan is all thats needed. Sure, if you want to model and print new fan mounts etc, go for it. But a quiet spec fan is such a simple change, nothing else is needed.You don't think that a potentially weaker blower would be unable to do the job? I'm asking since I don't know how much air is actually needed..by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Quieting the fan - 10 years ago
Would it be futile to think to replace with a 60x60mm fan instead? The mounting and duct would have to be redone but maybe it's worth it? Unnecessary?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Quieting the fan - 10 years ago
Perhaps Ian from RRP could give us some info about the original fan specs? I'd hate to replace it with something that turns out wasn't good enough.by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod Web Control v0.67 - 10 years ago
I don't understand why the Duet itself can cater these files? It does have a primitive web server in it anyway, does it not?by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod Web Control v0.67 - 10 years ago
Quoteauser when I had hangs a 99% they where caused by long lines at the end of the g-code. specifically older cura plugins did not remove the "profile" cura likes to put at the end of the g-code. Maybe you could check with a text editor if you have a long line a the end of your g-code. If it is the cura profile: simply remove it the ormerod does not read it.Wow, that was a long line. Is that allby michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod Web Control v0.67 - 10 years ago
This is a great interface. Great work. Is it just me, or is the g-code upload feature buggy? It always hang at 99%, no matter what.by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Hotend fan - 10 years ago
Aaaaallllright.... the battery in my multimeter just died... After replacing it, the PSU voltage is at a stable 12.1V... Sorry about all this.by michaelljunggren - Ormerod
Re: Hotend fan - 10 years ago
Quotedc42 2. The voltage on the 12V line should be nowhere near 15V. I think your ATX power supply may be faulty.It's actually 17.5 when idling. A few volts are to be expected surely, but you suggest this is too much? Could someone please check their own? I measured at the input to the duet board.by michaelljunggren - Ormerod