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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: Extruder jump back during print - 10 years ago
I have just had to rebuild my hot end because my filament got jammed. What happened is that the hot end got a little loose, so there was a slight gap between the Bowden brass insert and the brass hot end - the plastic can work its way inside there over time and jam. Make sure that all parts are correctly tightened. The other comments should also cover other eventualities.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Spring loaded extruder is not working (for me) - 11 years ago
Good work - I like the colorful lookby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Spring loaded extruder is not working (for me) - 11 years ago
What is a better format to post that makes it possible for people to edit nicely - I've often wondered that. IGS?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Spring loaded extruder is not working (for me) - 11 years ago
Thanks for the comments Erik etc. - I would imagine that many ballpoint pen springs would be weaker than the ones I originally used when testing the extruder. The grip shown in Erik's photo of the filament is the perfect amount in my opinion - it won't wear through the filament but grabs it tightly.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Fillament drying - 11 years ago
Ahh - the multiple objects thing.. OK I forgot that after I bought the Pro version. If you were of a mind to try it out and got used to it, there are many ways of laying out the objects and saving them as one composite object which Kisslicer will happily load. I found that the support generated by Kisslicer beats Cura and (used to beat) Slic3r hands down.. I couldn't remove the support from the oby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Fillament drying - 11 years ago
I find that I get stringing when my temperature is set too low for the filament. I use Kisslicer for slicing for the Ormerod - it does a good job, and the only major difference between professional and free version is that the pro supports multiple extruders. I'm interested by that Cura screenshot. My Cura preview doesn't look like that at all - is there a setting I'm missing I wonder? I like tby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: crackig ABS - 11 years ago
Also make sure you're printing at the right temperature - a little too low causes bad adhesion between layers which leads to cracking. Not all ABS filaments are the same - I have some that are printed at 230, others at 260. Once I've established the best temperature I put a sticker on the roll to help remember. Another thing is that printing too fast will also cause weaker laminations..by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Extruder gear keeps slipping on infill - 11 years ago
Didn't see if anyone mentioned this, but extruding at too low a temperature for the material can also cause skipping. I find that some materials require quite different temperatures. Skipping on the first layer can be due to the nozzle being too close to the bed.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Bowden tube coming out of extruder - 11 years ago
QuoteTreito Quoteiamburny Here is a version of MasonStoneHenges Spring loaded extruder arm, modified to take a pneumatic bowden connector Is this version for a M5 nut? I am afraid that this problem effects me too but I need to know which pneumatic connector I have to buy. Until I get around to posting on Thingiverse, this is the M5 version with the larger feed diameter, pneumatic screw fit andby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: still having problems - 11 years ago
Quotecua193 Zombiepantslol, Thanks for the prompt response. I followed your lead to an earlier version which works on XP. I have to use a dedicated computer, which has no close 'phone line, to drive the ormerod. I can't access the web. A simple crossover Ethernet cable and a static IP address will allow you to use the web interface - no Internet access necessary. It's well worth the effort!by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Hello, Im trying to improve my print quality with a new pla fillament, here is what it looks like now - 11 years ago
QuoteDarathy sadly the fillament that comes with printer is extremly good but way too expensive ,i can get some really nice prints with it. While with the fillament i curently have i get such messy prints that i am considering of throwing the whole KG of it in the trash bin. Notice the poor bridiging and random holes in the layers , with the same settings i get that part perfect with the fillamby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Chinese E3d Replica problem - 11 years ago
If it's like the Prusa and the header block and nozzle are different materials (aluminium and brass eg.), then it's important to heat the nozzle up to a little higher than extrusion temperature and carefully tighten the nozzle against the block. This should stop your leaking which occurs because of the different expansion/contraction rates between the metals.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Nozzle offset, helps with excess material accumulation - 11 years ago
I'm trying to work out what that 'bubble' effect is..by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Nozzle offset, helps with excess material accumulation - 11 years ago
QuoteBenBB Ben, is that the underneath of the print or as it stands on the print bed at the end of the print?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Heatsink questions for RepRap - 11 years ago
I have been wondering for a while now why the heatsink is mounted so that the fins run horizontally. If it was rotated 90 degrees, then the top could be blocked off and the airflow out of the bottom would be in the right place for the hot-end blower. This would simplify the airflow design quite a bit I believe. I realise that the mounting holes on the heat sink are in a different orientation forby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Bowden tube coming out of extruder - 11 years ago
Useful feedback, thanks Daveby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Bowden tube coming out of extruder - 11 years ago
The original is available on Thingiverse here: The one that was in this thread was a very specific test version - it can however be made available if everyone who tested it says it works well The link still works for me?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: The stresses of ABS - 11 years ago
That's interesting - I haven't ever had stringing with ABS. Depending on the material I print at about 250C and use 5 or 6 mm retraction at quite a high speed on the Ormerod. Perhaps you're not getting hot enough so it's still a little sticky?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Cannot print a bar...ends keep curling up - 11 years ago
I haven't used Kapton tape for more than a year now - I use 'extreme hold' hairspray straight on the glass for PLA and haven't needed anything else since I started that. I found the Kapton was difficult to source, expensive when you could, was difficult to apply nicely and caused artifacts on the print - pieces dislodging and sticking to the print, or causing little lines from accidental overlapsby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: The stresses of ABS - 11 years ago
Fortunately I work at a factory that has a fiberglass section that buys acetone in huge drums, so obtaining 2 litres at a time is a case of going downstairs and asking nicely! I concur with dmould and ormerod168 - printing with ABS is a bit of trial and error, but the Ormerod can do it very well with the x-axis and hot end parts all replaced with ABS alternatives. I did remove the air blowing oby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight - 11 years ago
Quotedc42 Yesterday I fitted VortZA's modified extruder with the larger radius. After doing a test print I left the filament in overnight... and it didn't break! Since it usually does break, I am hopeful that this is at least a partial solution to the problem. The pneumatic connector is also working well. It does allow a slight movement of the Bowden tube, which is evident during retraction/un-by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight - 11 years ago
Quotedc42 Today I unloaded filament that I had left in the extruder for several days. There was either a break in the extruder inlet already, or one occurred as I unloaded the filament. But the filament also broke at or above the hobbed bolt, because some filament was left in the Bowden tube. I examined the broken pieces of filament, and I found them unusually brittle. Taking a piece of filamentby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New firmware 0.96n and web interface 1.03 - 11 years ago
Quotezombiepantslol VortyZA, thanks for your report, I'll try to reproduce this when I get back to my printer. shadow651, you're right, I'm aware of this issue and I'll address it in my next release. At the time I wrote the JS code, I didn't expect RRP to change the tool numbers once more, but I'll make my next version deal with this properly (e.g. by sending T-1 instead of T0 to deselect the cuby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight - 11 years ago
Interestingly enough I have just started using another filament, made by a manufacturer in UK (Bought from RS). This filament breaks if left unattended overnight, but breaks in all sorts of different places - when straight, inside the outside feed tube, at the reel itself. The filament itself is great and the prints wonderful, but the breakage is very annoying! I'm not convinced that the larger rby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: homemade ormerod? - 11 years ago
QuotevonTugboat If microswitches are that variable, how are all the Mendels getting an accurate Z-axis zero? My Prusa i3 goes down until it detects the switch, reverses until the switch releases, then goes down again until it detects the switch again - I suppose it's a 'best of 3'-type thing?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New firmware 0.96n and web interface 1.03 - 11 years ago
I'm using dc42's 1.00o firmware with the web Interface Version 1.03 (JS: 1.03). It happend when I leave the printer for a while, like overnight or over a weekend for example. When I start up the web interface I can see everything on the page, but still have to click the 'connect' button to be able to control it or see positions etc. When I click 'Connect' I get a "Password required" dialog withby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New firmware 0.96n and web interface 1.03 - 11 years ago
Apologies if this has been mentioned somewhere else, but occasionally the web interface asks me for the password for the Ormerod - it doesn't accept the password that has been set in the config.g file, and so the only way I can get the interface to start responding again is to reboot the Ormerod. Any ideas?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Assembly trouble, stuck heater cartridge - 11 years ago
One thing you have to be very careful of on the heating cartridge is the wires coming out the back - I managed to break one off about 1mm from the end. You cannot solder it on again - I tried crimping it, but the connection was too dodgy and would glow red! I had to buy a new one in the end.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New firmware 1.00o-dc42 - 11 years ago
I did a print today with the new firmware and web interface and they work really well together! The edges and corners seem a lot more accurate than before. Very happy so far!by VortyZA - Ormerod