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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: J-head hotend mount for the Ormerod - 12 years ago
What would be the advantage of 3mm over 1.75mm? I've pondered this before and the only thing I could really come up with is that because the filament is so much thicker it's easier to have consistent diameters, or the differences are a lot smaller compared to the volume of the filament.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: J-head hotend mount for the Ormerod - 12 years ago
Interesting project! Thanks for sharingby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Problem with arcs on second print of stand after moving Ormerod - 12 years ago
Looks like the Z is a little too high for the 1st layer. The outer perimeter and the inner fill should be joined. It also would cause bad adhesion like you're seeing on the sharp corners.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: one print starts off bed - 12 years ago
Another great program for fixing issues is Autodesk Meshmixer: I've found that it's resolved some issues for me without having the resort to the Netfab cloud service. It's also got an interesting system for supports, gives you a great view that shows you where support is required and allows you to add pillars. The pillars work well when using Cura, but Kisslicer doesn't really like them howeverby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New experimental firmware 0.78k-dc42 - 12 years ago
Thanks for the discussion about this - I didn't really plan it, just struck me that it's another compatibility change where someone who doesn't read the documentation or forums clearly will start posting messages about why their print seems to be reversed or when homing the motor goes the wrong way and not towards the limits or whatever! There was a rash of the 'my printer seems to turn off theby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New experimental firmware 0.78k-dc42 - 12 years ago
I understand that a lot of the changes that are made are to keep in line with RR's changes, but sometimes they cause compatibility havoc. As an example, I'm still not entirely sure why T0 became T1 - in the grand scheme of things it's a large breaking change! All existing g-code files, all slicer program configs, all config.h files had to change. Bear in mind that this also breaks compatibilityby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Terrible print result - where do I start? - 12 years ago
It could also be that the extrusion steps / mm of filament hasn't been set correctly - if you extrude too much filament you'll also have the ploughing issues.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New bed disaster - 12 years ago
I had a fairly big failure with my 6mm glass bed... I did my normal trick of squeaky clean glass + fairly thick ABS slurry. Decided to make a generously thick layer because I was printing something in ABS with a large base that I didn't want to warp. Well when it was done I couldn't remove the part from the bed because it had stuck really well! I put it aside to cool off and as usual come off.. Wby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Getting better results? - 12 years ago
There are a lot of little tweaks that can be made - Small changes like tightening the x-arm bearing against the aluminium using strips of Kapton tape, ensuring that there is as little wiggle on the z-axis threaded rod as possible and tightening the y-axis belt using Matt & dc42's mods all make improvements to the quality. I spent far too much time watching the printer print and examining theby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Z-axis threaded rod causes layer skipping *Please Help* - 12 years ago
I can't see that the top mount would help with a bent rod - the rod will still be bent, but will just add an additional thing to rub against. It's fairly easy to remove the rod, then roll it on a flat surface to check it's straight. If it's bent, then it's possible if difficult to bend it straight again. Probably better to replace it with a top quality stainless steel one, and in future lubricateby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: good and poor filament materail - 12 years ago
I originally had a system with bearings to allow the filament spool to turn freely, but found that the springiness of the filament would sometimes cause itself to unspool, especially when mounted vertically - a little friction is a good thing! I now have an adapter that fits over a CD spindle (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:335944 FWIW) that the spool rests on - it has low friction, so it can tby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Carbon Fiber Filament - 12 years ago
Redblunt is referring to this item on Thingiverse..by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Anyone interested in an LCD control panel for the Ormerod? - 12 years ago
Is there no smaller, yet clear font? Thinking of the windows 'small fonts'. The ideal would be to have both the temperature and the target if you can fit it. Then I'd imagine it's not necessary to say "Printing xxx", you're losing 9 characters of the long filename right there..by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Anyone interested in an LCD control panel for the Ormerod? - 12 years ago
I have to say that the SD card and LCD and rotary encoder that I have on the Prusa i3 is absolutely invaluable to me! The push function of the rotary switch is essentially 'accept', while the rotate clockwise or anti-clockwise moves up and down the list. Each top menu item is a 'title' which will take you back a menu level. The sorts of functions that I find useful: Preparation *Auto axis (essby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Adding support manually in CAD Design? - 12 years ago
The support method varies depending on what you're wanting to print - For example a flat countersunk screw hole is tricky because the slicers normally want to create the wall outline around the hole, but have nothing underneath to support it. Automatic support can be difficult because you'd be removing it from within a hole. A clever method of support that I've seen with the Prusa parts would beby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: The Easy Way to print ABS 
- 12 years ago
I can confirm that I altered my hot end in a similar way to Ludo91 and don't have issues with those PLA parts however (and this is very important!) do not put the printer in a box to decrease the ABS warping... THEN you'll have big issues with almost every part! (Experience speaking!)by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: The Easy Way to print ABS - 12 years ago
I found that on bigger parts a thick brim is essential. I now print ABS only on the glass with a thick (visible) layer of slurry that has air-dried (heating causes bubbles). This makes a Kapton substitute that doesn't pull off the bed after 4mm of printing and it's a lot easier to apply. I smear on a thin layer with paper, then pour on a generous amount and tilt the glass around until it's flowedby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: 1/3 of the print is good, the rest is bad - 12 years ago
I made a fan duct that clips on to the existing one - when I print ABS I unclip it and the air vents out the back instead. Makes it a lot easier to chop and change..by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Prints not sticking - 12 years ago
The best thing I've found for PLA on a heated bed is super hold hairspray! Spray on the glass, adjust your Z as mentioned by others above, and your print should definitely stick to the bed, to the point that you have to cool the glass before it pops off. Some things curve upwards when they cool - not really to do with the bed adhesion. This can easily catch on the cooling ducts or IR sensor boarby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Software support for multiextruder - 12 years ago
That looks good! Well done!by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New USer slicing and printing - 12 years ago
I didn't think the prints looked like a blockage, unless it was right at the end of 1308.jpg It just looked like the E steps or multiplier weren't 100% right. If it's in free air and you extrude does it still come out in 'spurts'? Erm.. I see Dave asked that.. only differently! Where in SA are you?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: bulges in my print - NinjaFlex - 12 years ago
Quotedmould QuoteVortyZA That's interesting - I would also have thought you'd need more retraction than normal due to the compression in the Bowden tube. I must get a hold of some of this stuff - sounds interesting! How compressible / stretchable is it? Similar to silicon glue? More like an eraser? What I meant was that it has greater extruder lag, so retractions and re-starts are effectively tby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: bulges in my print - NinjaFlex - 12 years ago
That's interesting - I would also have thought you'd need more retraction than normal due to the compression in the Bowden tube. I must get a hold of some of this stuff - sounds interesting! How compressible / stretchable is it? Similar to silicon glue? More like an eraser?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: New filament reel, new hot end temperature? - 12 years ago
I always use 205C for all PLA - I found it worked pretty well and since then haven't looked back! The quality of the prints I'm getting with the Ormerod is astonishing! I had a manufacturer flabbergasted when I showed him some of the things it has printed. He has 2 machines of 3x and 30x the price which don't produce much better prints!by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: bulges in my print - NinjaFlex - 12 years ago
It's not the point that your slicer moves the head inwards or outwards is it? Or possibly when it retracts/extrudes on each layer? If I print tubes I normally have a slight bump down one side for those reasons - adjusting my retraction amount normally improves it. I'm quite impressed that you got the Ninjaflex to work with the Ormerod - I was under the impression that it requires a very short feby VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: Bed leveling issue - how is this even possible? - 12 years ago
I found that where the X-axis arm and horizontal support tab together, the tab was out by .? of a mm - this caused the arm to be ever so slightly bowed which causes the appearance of a curve to the plate. Looking down the x-axis I could see that it was slightly curved, so I took it off and filed the tab down slightly so it fitted better and resolved my issues.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Re: first print not gonna happen - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 QuoteVortyZA Don't mean to sound daft or noobish - been printing for a while now, but.. Explain white tape and the x-homing tab? The x-homing tab is the little piece of plastic sticking out from the x-motor mount close to the threaded rod. It serves as the target for the IR sensor when homing the X axis. Depending on what P value you configure in your G31 command, the plastic may notby VortyZA - Ormerod