As Dave said, you shouldn't let the temperature get too high. As a brand new user that hadn't read ALL the instructions I tried to print ABS and battled. I read that the bed can get to higher temperatures in a box, so I put the printer in the box and set it going! I'm pretty sure you see where this is heading - the final result was that I softened most of the PLA parts and bearings started slippby VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotebobtidey I like this idea as well and have commented in thingiverse to see if it could also incorporate the Mr Burns extended hole size for inner PTFE tube which works really well in making the filament passage smoother. I've added another .stl with the wider tube for the PTFE insert. I'll print it tonight and see how well it works out.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Hi Les, The original design of the extruder has been separated into two parts, one that attaches to the motor, and one for feeding the filament that attaches to a hinge at the top of the motor part. The feeder side gets anchored at the bottom with a screw which has a mild tension on it (like the spring from a ballpoint pen). The screw is tightened so that the feeder is pressed against the motoby VortyZA - Ormerod
I am a little ADHD when it comes to slicing - I want final results NOW! I gave up on using Slic3r and went to Kisslicer which is sooooo much faster it's a joke! It also prints support that is FAR easier to remove - no cutting or chisels required! Now I slice it several times, reviewing it and tweaking settings until I'm happy with the result, then save to .gby VortyZA - Ormerod
Thanks for the comments - MasonStonehenge is my 'alt' on thingiverse I've updated the design a little last night. I'd be willing to widen the hole for the PTFE liner - just need to see if there's enough space as it is, otherwise might need the thicken the extruder slightly. I've found it's very effective for smoothing the action of a slightly inaccurate gear (10ths of a mm), it also makes cleanby VortyZA - Ormerod
I had funnies happen with my SD card, but it was more that the card was faulty and so the print would freeze halfway.. I know it's been mentioned before, but it still sounds like the belt is too loose, or too tight, or the hot end (fan coweling/IR sensor board) hooked on something when printing. Interesting that you were watching at the time and didn't see anything go wrong. Have you looked at thby VortyZA - Ormerod
Getting there.. still looks like there's a bed compensation/1st layer height (possibly z-probe calibration) issue, but it's a great feeling having that first part done! It gets more fun from here!by VortyZA - Ormerod
I know it's a little more than the Web Interface, but what I'd really like to see with the Ormerod is MTP on the USB. Are the g-codes examined as the files are uploaded in the interface? If so, would it be possible to have an 'upload as raw' type command to upload files quicker without the overhead of checking it as it goes?by VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I'm talking about PLA. I have a roll of ABS but I haven't started it yet. Oh OK - I would really be impressed if objects could be printed in ABS on the glass with it not pulling away! Does the vinegar give the PLA something to stick to? I've tried printing directly on glass with PLA before and I found that in my case the filament would just slide around with the head..by VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedmould QuoteVortyZA That being said, I have one specific part that I *cannot* print without it pulling off the bed even with Kapton tape and ABS juice. What sort of ratio of ABS to acetone do you use? How thickly do you apply it? If I'm printing that part I have to baby it for the first 10 layers or so, 'gluing' the part down if it starts lifting off the bed with a generous portion of juice!by VortyZA - Ormerod
That being said, I have one specific part that I *cannot* print without it pulling off the bed even with Kapton tape and ABS juice. What sort of ratio of ABS to acetone do you use? How thickly do you apply it? If I'm printing that part I have to baby it for the first 10 layers or so, 'gluing' the part down if it starts lifting off the bed with a generous portion of juice! It tends to pull off proby VortyZA - Ormerod
Wow! Well spotted dc42 - that sounds like a difficult bug to locate!by VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedmould QuoteKaGen101 The green neon heads in the photo attached where printed like this on glass as is. As a matter of fact it sticks at much lower temps: 85C first 5 layers then drop the heat down to 50C so the ABS don't warp Works brilliantly with ABS. Actually tried it on that first and then PLA Are you saying that you printed ABS onto plain glass? In your first post you said you usedby VortyZA - Ormerod
QuoteCrouchy I'm also having problems with my Y-axis moving at random. I'm not seeing any "humping" of the drive belt, so I don't think its too loose. Can the belt being too tight have the same effect? This is happening in about one out of every four prints. Reprinting the same file will usually work perfectly. I've had similar problems in print, but always due to a specific belt being a litby VortyZA - Ormerod
Reviving the thread a little - would be interested to find out how you got on Sardi? Due to the high cost of the PLA filament in South Africa I sourced some cheap ABS filament. Occasionally a print would fail and the printer would start air-printing. I thought it might be the variable diameter of the filament - it could vary from 1.5 to 1.9mm, so I altered the extruder to be spring loaded so thaby VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Hi VortyZA, there have been a couple of reports of this problem, although not since I released 0.59. Please check the following: * Are you running the 0.59 release of my firmware? If you are running a 0.58 or a 0.59 beta version, please upgrade. It doesn't say beta, but it does report as 0.59b. Quotedc42 * Before uploading, run the command M111 S2 and look at the response in the messby VortyZA - Ormerod
I must remember to do more research before typing! I read those threads you mentioned dc42, and some of those ideas are great. I will abandon this thread and comment in the others if necessary! :blush:by VortyZA - Ormerod
Occasionally when I go to the 'SD Upload Drop' button and select a gcode file the printer will immediately start printing, and show the greyed out screen 'File upload Status' with the progress bar. If that's not what I'm aiming for, then I have to either reload the page to get control back or reset the printer and restart the web interface. I'm not totally sure what could be the problem and whatby VortyZA - Ormerod
I don't get total jams, but I do have the extruder battling if I have the head too close to the bed.by VortyZA - Reprappers
The IR Z-Probe doesn't work for me - in the morning it will measure different values to the evening, depending on the lighting in the room / florescents / shadows etc. I can't even use it to calculate the axis compensation because it gives different results at different places on the board. I've taken to using one of those spark-plug gap testers to manually moving the head. What I wanted to mentby VortyZA - Ormerod
Hey dc42 I am actually VERY happy with the printer now using the Web Control and your firmware. I've uploaded several things with no more problems and it's one hang of a sight easier to get .g codes to the printer. I had to either be extremely patient and upload using Pronterface (and I mean patient!) or shutdown the printer, move the SD to PC, copy, move back - recalibrate the printer. What a mby VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedc42 That would be helpful. Are you using version 0.74? I am not - I thought that I had the latest and greatest - I'm apparently wrong about that as I see it says: FIRMWARE_NAME:RepRapFirmware FIRMWARE_VERSION:0.65b ELECTRONICS: Duet DATE:2014-05-07 I have a couple of other questions, but once I've updated the firmware to .74 I'll see if they are still valid. Would you mind pointing me toby VortyZA - Ormerod
I had the the same and similar issues to Paul. What I've had is that I started to upload the file. It got to 28% or so, then just stopped (for a couple of minutes until I gave up). I wondered if it was possibly an 8.3 filename issue, so I renamed the file, then selected the (renamed) file to upload again and this time it breezed it's way through the upload. When I refreshed the files list, the pby VortyZA - Ormerod
I found that printing at 205C with PLA worked best - it's possible that it's not liquifying enough to go through the 0.5mm hole? I'd suggest disconnecting the Bowden tube from the extruder (the small clip can just be removed), set the temperature then push the filament by hand until you find it's coming out. If it doesn't extract at any temperature it's possible that there is a physical jam thatby VortyZA - Ormerod
The shape on the end of what you cleaned out of the nozzle looks as if it's backing up in the pipe - like a blockage somewhere at the end? Another thought occurs - have you been successfully printing yet? Reason I ask is that I found that Slic3r had the incorrect settings for the extruder and would try to do absolute extruder positioning instead of relative, so the extruder would push the materiaby VortyZA - Ormerod
Had a problem during the week with that - could not even manually push the filament through or even pull it out again. Turns out that there was a slight gap between the Bowden tube and the brass cap, and filament had melted it's way into the gap, then solidified. This could probably happen between the PTFE tube and the hot end too? Have you tried manually extruding the filament to make sure thatby VortyZA - Ormerod