I am not sure if Dave (makes the aluminium x arm) still makes the dual nozzle blocks. But if we can still at least get the one piece nozzle and block with Dave block we can still have dual nozzle... I am sure Dave will confirm if he is making themby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Quote0x0000 It's an all-metal hotend that claims to handle temps of 300C... I don't think it has a PTFE liner. I suppose it's possible it melted down, but I don't think it got that hot and I don't see any evidence of it. If it vapourised, I'd be sick for the rest of the day Ahh makes sense. Have you had any luck removing it??by steve0-uk - Ormerod
From the picture. Does it look like there is no ptfe in the nozzle?by steve0-uk - Ormerod
on searching online, i came across this site they they are based in Sweden and doesn't have much of the parts needed, but it does have the hobbed inserts, bowden start and ends, heat sinks, nozzles and blocks motors seem a tad bigger from the specs so not sure they will fit the printed parts mainly for the Y axisby steve0-uk - Ormerod
i'd be interested in oneby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Hey all if anyone is doing or has done the dual nozzle conversion using DaveK0974 's heatsink block (available by contacting DaveK0974 via PM) and DC42's printed nozzle mount (available here ), and wants a one piece spacer, I have a limited number (7 at the moment) available. the spacer is laser cut 3mm mdf as per the original but suited to the dual heatsink block. I am going to be asking for aby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Quotedougal1957 Quotesteve0-uk Quotedougal1957 I find the keep the kapton clean (I wipe it down with Acetone between each print) and use a bed temp of 65 with nozzle at 185 works for me every time. Doug. ps kapton is one piece on glass (ie 200mm wide roll) All I do with mine is lift the z up to 30 and heat the bed. Give it a wipe with a piece of kitchen roll once up to temp them home all axisby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Quotedougal1957 I find the keep the kapton clean (I wipe it down with Acetone between each print) and use a bed temp of 65 with nozzle at 185 works for me every time. Doug. ps kapton is one piece on glass (ie 200mm wide roll) All I do with mine is lift the z up to 30 and heat the bed. Give it a wipe with a piece of kitchen roll once up to temp them home all axis then print. Since build I've haby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quotesteve0-uk To be fair I've only bought a black and a second white. They are the same size spools that come with the Ormerod and come in a sealed bag as well. I work at RS so I get them for £13 a spool :-) In fact I inadvertently quoted the price of the special colours at 3dfilaprint, their normal filament is even cheaper (I have edited my post to reflect that). Even with your diby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quotesteve0-uk I tend to keep with what works, is the site which is printed on the reels that the printer came with and I buy from them, you can also get the same reels from RS Components Good Lord that is ridiculously expensive filament! quotes £19.14 for 100m of "Ormerod" PLA which works out as £63.16 per kg, and RS is even more expensive. I tried looking at their "generic" fby steve0-uk - Ormerod
I tend to keep with what works, is the site which is printed on the reels that the printer came with and I buy from them, you can also get the same reels from RS Componentsby steve0-uk - Ormerod
nice work... will be adding this to my list or replacement partsby steve0-uk - Ormerod
is /was that the mount for the nozzle?by steve0-uk - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quotesteve0-uk Hi Dave. If the 4th dual nozzle board is still unallocated, may I request it? Yes it's still available and I have reserved it for you. To order, please send me a PM as descrbed in the 4th paragraph of . PM sent :-)by steve0-uk - Ormerod
Hi Dave. If the 4th dual nozzle board is still unallocated, may I request it?by steve0-uk - Ormerod
Decided to take this another route. My psu has a spare output on it so I am thinking of coming straight from that to a 5v 1a regulator then to the usb socket which will power the wireless router. I have designed a small enclosure to mount the router on the side of the psu. I have included a couple pics showing the nano router in place with the mount I designed next step is to mount the usb sockeby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Fab will give it a go!! Thanksby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Some food for thought there... I guess all I can do at this stage is do it and see what happens with the reg. What pins on the exp. Port can I use for 5v and gnd?by steve0-uk - Ormerod
I did have that in mind to use the exp. Pins I am planning on running the x4 add on card at some point, mid way through doing the 2 nozzle conversion... Which I am going to need one of your 2 nozzle boards rather soonish I have a panel mount socket from an old pc card which has a suitable connector on for the duet. I work at RS so I can get hold of 5v regulators pretty easy. The psu for the nby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Hey all I have got my O2 running wireless using a nano router... It can be powered from usb ports so I am thinking, I want to keep everything on the printer on the printer, so would I be able to run a usb port from the duet for power?by steve0-uk - Ormerod
I had this with the standard kit gears using the official reprap firmware. Since then I have updated to DC42'S firmware 078c I think it is and everything works perfect even with the stock gears. I now have the herringbone gears all is fineby steve0-uk - Ormerod
The only other test you can do is to check the wiring isn't shorting out. However the reprap guys are really good and i have seen comments that if the board is faulty they will replace itby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Hi James. It has the hot end settings but bed always set to 0. I have ext. First layer at 200 and other layers 185. What temp do I need to set the bed for the other layersby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Hey all I am trying to print the herringbone gears for my O2. I have downloaded the settings for slicer from github so that I get the ormerod-0.5 in the printer, print settings and filament. But I have no setting for the heated bed. I am new to this and don't fully understand what to do. Can you help?by steve0-uk - Ormerod
Quotejamesf Lol. The one in the current documentation looks functional and attaches securely on both side. The one I have has nothing to hold it securely on the PSU side - just a slit the tightens around the edge of PSU - think it's the one you have - will check when I get home. Kept on slipping off during mounting - very annoying oh really, on mine it fit into a slit in the psu and held quiteby steve0-uk - Ormerod
QuoteAmsterdamman This is what I find for the PSU brace in my Ormerod2 folder. I hope it helps! YES thats the one thanks :0) in the github all i found was for the newer psu (528.2) Quotejamesf While I was building the printer, I swore that would be the first piece I would redesign! lol its a better design/look than the newer one i thought thanks all :0)by steve0-uk - Ormerod
hey can anyone help me please I have an older model Ormerod 2 (528.0), one that doesn't have an integrated fan on the PSU I am looking for the stl file for the psu bracket for this model (printed part in the attached pic) as I have started to print more parts in another colour I have looked in the master file on github and it has all the other files except this one part. does anyone have a cby steve0-uk - Ormerod
Arm received and assembled looks great. Thanks for your hard work on these. I quite like the idea of the tape, if it's cheap enough to include then I would keep supplying it then it's down to the user to use it or not Merry Christmas to allby steve0-uk - Ormerod