QuoteByteSlinger Which H Parameters would that be? I'm a little confused. Surely this should be a Z parameter I'm adjusting? the H parameter is not on the default probe line, it needs adding the best way I find to do this is to have the bed.g program open and use the web interface at the same time first make sure the nozzle is hot, a cold nozzle can have some left over plastic on it that willby bgkdavis - Fisher
Sorry didn't realize it was a gantry design Just about any homing system will be screwed if you start homing from a poor position but this problem may be fixable by first moving 10mm in Y before homing X, in much the same way the RRP mendel moves 10 mm in Z before homing X, this way you can be guaranteed that the tab it sees isn't the Y tab.... of course, if you start homing at Y max then thatby bgkdavis - Duet
I know exactly what you mean as I have an RRP tricolour Mendel too, however its soon going to be stripped down and have a P3 frame added The problem is you need XY to be homed before you can home Z...... and until you home Z you don,t know how far off the bed you are , so you will be unable to get an accurate trigger for Y homeby bgkdavis - Duet
or option 3 aluminium extrusion with linear rails this is not the cheapest option but I feel its the best, and if you build a simple aluminium extrusion printer in the first instance you can always upgrade it later..... however, out of the two options you list above I feel the aluminium extrusion with rollers is actually the worst, and would opt for the linear rods insteadby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 In other words both axis are minus to the Rear Left and positive at front right. HTH The correct convention is both axes are minus in the FRONT left and positive in the REAR Right ...ohh sorry see this has already been correctedby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
probably too late for this, but dont install the build tak until after commissioning, use blue painter tape instead, and even if you have installed the buildtak, still use the painters tape the SD card image for the fisher is on the instructions page immediately below 'First Connection' you should be using this however Ive copied the link hereby bgkdavis - Fisher
The most important rule is the 20 degree rule, that is the angle between the arm and the print surface is never less than 20 degrees, if you want higher stability in print quality then maybe set this value to 22 or 25 degrees, but 20 degrees should be your absolute minimum, call this value A Start by determining the pitch radius if the carriage and effector ball centers, call them Rc and Re Youby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
Ive got a RRP mendel 3 tricolour, not used it for a while becasue Im busy playing with deltas, but I'm now considering stripping this machine down and rebuilding it with a new frameby bgkdavis - General Mendel Topics
A little tip for accurately setting your frame bars is to get a pair of digital calipers..... and before every stops reading because their 150mm digital calipers cant measure more than 150mm, there is a trick, that lets you use your 150mm. calipers to measure in excess of twice their range. The important thing to remember is you don't actually need to know the measurement between each upright atby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
Actually the cable for my extruder are fine.... BUT, I tried using a couple if different motors and they don't work, I suspect that I need to swap over a pair of wires....... what this may suggest is your motor is correct but the cable is wrong, whilst on mine the the cable is wrong, but because the supplied motor is also wrong the two faults cancel outby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
hey sash, sorry, but disagree with just about everything your saying here 1) the acrylic is useless for the arms but fine for the case, you need to modify the axes to positively direct the force down the uprights, this eliminates the problems with the acylic supporting the upper half of the printer 2) the bed leveling system is cheap, and does have its issues, you have to set the H parameter forby bgkdavis - Fisher
ah right... don't understand the electronics, but no, diodes on that configuration will do squat for regenerative currents and wont have an adverse effect on bipolar motors onlyby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
As near as I can make out those boards add a couple of diodes to each motor circuit. What these would do is isolate any regenerative current from the motors that may cause some rippling, but if your using bipolar stepper motors will also mean they will cease to work. How do you know if your getting regenerative current from the motors?, well just turn off your control system and move the axes uby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
No reason why it cant control any CNCby bgkdavis - Duet
On the web interface would it be easy to include a current extruder plasticizing rate in cc/min and a current xy axis feedrate in mm/secby bgkdavis - Duet
Updated list, the latest round of replacements haev made a lot of improvement, its surprising how much better the E3D hot end is Original Replaced being replaced replacement being considered 2020 frame arms Carbon Fibre are a lot stiffer than the supplied aluminium heatbed not very good, probably should replace with a 24V plate buildplate replaced MDF plate with 5mm glass axis rollers too muchby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
yup, the best and only alternative to carbon fibre arms is better carbon fibre armsby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
Actually I've just relocated my extruder to the side and it works fine, better because I've now replaced the extruder with a E4D titan, it turns out I cut the bowden too short for the extruder to stay at the top! yes I had to Splice the extra cable into the loom to make it long enough. I think the Duet/screen/probe replacement comes to about GBP200 all in You want the carraiges for the open belby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
What controller are you using? Errors like this are easilly adjusted for on the Duet using orthogonal correction M556by bgkdavis - Delta Machines
Simplyfy3d supports multiple extruders far better than slic3r, but there is a world of difference between supporting multiple extruders and mixing extruders. Ideally for the mixing extruder concept to work you would start with a coloured solid body, which itself is a problem, and the printer would print it to the correct colour, and incidentaly there are rapid prototype machines that can do thisby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
zn tuning of heating/cooling processes sucks it just takes too long to analyse that your in a stable oscillation before you can obtain a time constant.by bgkdavis - Duet
Quotedeckingman It seems pointless to put gcode commands in config.g if all they do is mirror what is already set. Absolutely not pointless, quite the opposite, its good practice, especially if you regularly update firmware....you got no idea what DC42 will fat finger in the next firmware release.by bgkdavis - Duet
Quotedeckingman My guess is that RepRapPro didn't want anyone playing around with these so they are hard coded somewhere?? RRP had no interest in such protection, and did nothing but encourage people to play around with the settings. Just looked in the config.g for my Mendel 3 and your correct whilst there is a M92 in there for setting the extruder steps per MM, but none for the XYZ axes, whicby bgkdavis - Duet
The problem I have with mixing extruders is I've yet to see a slicer package that can make good use of them Of course if/when they become popular then Im sure the slicer software will followby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
Maybe a 2 into 1 head would be a better option like the E3D Cyclops , this option wont be practical if you want to print different materials like dissolve-able scaffold, but may give you functional multi colour. The problem with multi extrusion is whilst is sounds cool and better, if you don't have an actual valid reason for multi extrusion, its just a royal pain in the assby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
The good news is for the most part the difference between a single and dual extruder can be limited to just the effector and a few extra components. Having built a multi extruder machine and knowing what I know now, I suggest you build a single extruder machine and later modify to a multi if you need to.... at least that way you will have a machine which you can use to build the modified partsby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
Its not the hot end you need to replace its the extruder. I believe someone is working on a E3D effector for a fisherby bgkdavis - Fisher
Brissy, maybe not quite the land of the godsby bgkdavis - Delta Machines
guess someone has to live thereby bgkdavis - Delta Machines