Good day all Today during my search for upgrades to the Ormerod printer I came across this amazing work of art. "When we think of desktop FDM/FFF 3D printers, we typically picture a gantry style Cartesian-based machine, or a Delta robot style printer. These machines are capable of 3D printing objects based on three axes: X, Y, and Z. The X and Y axes make up the two-dimensional plane, while tby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Our work has purchased four Anet A8 printers. The will probably arrive in a month or so. How do they compare with regards to the Prusa i3 Mk2?by Karoo Klong - General
Thank you Pete I checked if the fan sucks or blows. I was misled by the backwash from the fan. It does indeed suck air and blow it down to the nozzle. I also understand the backwash problem much better now. QuotePeterdl The fan should BLOW out of the 3 holes by the nozzle. The fan housing should have 2 arrows on it somewhere. One arrow shows the direction of the blades and the other shows the dby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Hi David Where can I find the latest of these files? This link does not work anymore. Quotedc42 You can find myslic3r config bundle at .by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you for taking the time to share these great tips with the community Les.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
How did that design work for you guys? Also what is the latest update on this? I see that you refer to the fan blowing but on my machine the fan seems to suck air from the three holes under by the print nozzle and then past the heat sink and out by the van. Is this correct? QuoteTreito As I have another nozzle I would have the 4 screws. I needed 4 screws to securely connet the two pieces whichby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Hi Erik. Thank you for that tip. I have been considering dc42's probe and was wondering how well it works. For now I just need to get my printer going. I have got the new aluminium X-Arm reinstalled now and I changed the design to be like it was in the Ormerod 1 where the rib actually grips the M5 nut, Since I cant successfully print yet that's the way I have to make things happen. I wonder whby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Ooh! That looks very nice! Now if I could only actually pro t something.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Wow that's quite good. So you still sticking with the original horende then? Ok so then I need to start figuring out what's wrong withy printer settings then. Oh I found blue painters tape! Will try that in my printbed.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Ok thank you for the advice. I have now reassembled the printer with the new revised aluminium parts and gave the printing another go with snowman. I am using black ABS and bed temperature at 110'C and hot end at 240'C I use hairspray for adhesion to the glass bed. further I didn't change anything to the standard snowman.g file I have extruder compensation at 246 I think instead of the standardby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you for the reply. I am still new to the 3D printing worls and haven't even printed anyting functional. I am still busy stabilising the machine and upgrading where needed. So for now I would just look at buying a cheap good copy of the E3D head. But need some help in how to choose the right one.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you Erik I will ask Greg if he perhaps still have that certificate.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thanks for the advice. I had an X-ARM made this week and when I went to fetch it yesterday I saw that the arm has bent from the lazer cutting heat. They will now make a new one for me from a higher grade aluminium om Tuesday. They gave me the detective part so I finished it off and bent it a little and seems like it will work fine. I cant wait for put it all together. I also had some aluminiumby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Quotetrevmas QuoteDavek0974 Hmm, tricky one then, is there a general consensus on the best version/design to look into? From a quick look I think the Ormerod 1 version may be compatible for all machines with the extra slot for the ribbon cable. The position of the drive belt and end stop holes would need to be checked though. The largest holes from the different versions would be ok as strengthby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Amazing work Erik!by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I Love the mods you did. I can't wait to get mine in the same sturdy shape.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you so much for your help Erik. I used your advice om the firmware and used your config.g file as well. I substituted my parameters into it. Finally I could print something. I used snowman as by first 5 prints and Plated around with the settings gaan in the Gcode of the print. I love how fast you made the reaction of the machine! I now only manualy evel the bed. I used hairspray to getby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I would like to do this mod on my Ormerod soon. What would you say is currently the best hotend to do this with? I still have the Ormerod 1 Bed is already 3mm aluminium. The X-Arm is being lazercut from 5mm Aluminium.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you Dave. I will keep trying.by Karoo Klong - Duet
Hi Lasse Have you managed to fix this problem yet?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you Dave and Erik for your help. I will do these alterations tomorrow and see whats happening from there. Yesterday I reinstalled v1.09 and all was working fine. It even "printed" but still no tool selected. I could not even manually select the tool. But it was nice to finaly see and hear it priting Snowman. Thanks Dave. Goeie dag to you as wel. Erik. I saw some of the mods you did to yby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Good day all I bought a second hand Ormerod 1 from a fellow forum member. I came across this site which I followed to the letter I flashed the Duet v0.6 board it with v0.78 Firmware and then had some issues in connecting with the web interface. I also struggled to get the z-sensor to auto level. I eventually installed v1.09 an a friend helped me with the setup for the web interface. We manageby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you David I will go there and report back. by the way, is there one thread where all the top mods for the Ormerod is listed, It can be a really wonderfull workhose once all the axis have been stiffened up. My first mod will be to remove the MDF and replace with a 3mm aluminium plate. Secondly I am looking at moving the extruder feed to E drive to the top of the Z-axis struded metal part.by Karoo Klong - Duet
Hi David I am completely new to 3D printing however I have been extensively busy in a CNC millig build using grbl. I bought Greg's machine and has since started getting it online again. I flashed it with version 0.78 and couldn't for the life of me get it to auto home the z-axis. I put in all the parametrs after reading the values in the proximity sensor. I then flashed it with version 1.09 anby Karoo Klong - Duet