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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: Finding the right temperature - 10 years ago
What hot end are you using? Some cheap hot ends won't handle anything other than ABS very well. In general, PLA should print as low as 180°C depending on the brand and your hot end. I print PLA at about 200 - 220°C, but my thermistor calibration is off a little bit. The idler tension may have to be adjusted a little bit for each material, depending on how soft it is.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: direct drive extrusion and consistent flow - 10 years ago
Easy way to see where the problem is coming from - try another slicer such as Cura. Also - you should be calibrating your extruder by measuring the length of filament pulled into the extruder. Measuring the width of the output is not the most accurate way to get precise flow control.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: LOTS OF BUR ON PRINTS - 10 years ago
QuotepingnaganIm not sure whether I need a extruder calibration for better flow control. If you haven't calibrated your extruder previously, then this definitely needs to be done. In the image it looks as if you are way over-extruding.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Problem printing GT2 pulleys - 10 years ago
The peak of the tooth on a small GT2 2mm pulley is only ~0.4mm wide. This makes it pretty difficult to print with a 0.5mm nozzle, especially if you let Slic3r pick an extrusion width, as it will usually pick something a bit wider than your nozzle size. You could try defining the extrusion width as 0.5mm to get a bit better resolution, but that still won't quite get you there. Have you tried anby NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Cupcake CNC update - 10 years ago
QuotegjbroomI'm searching for printer designs where individual pieces fit on the tiny build plate The majority of printed parts for most printers are small enough to fit in a 100x100mm build area, but there's often a part or two that doesn't fit. All the parts for the Wallace or Printrbot are small enough to fit in a 100x100mm build area. I think that all of the standard Prusa i3 parts are smalby NewPerfection - General
Re: Power supply's - 10 years ago
Quotedissidencei think that even at 20 amp your on the small side with the heated bed, i am using a 350 watt computer psu A dedicated 12V, 16A power supply will do just fine on a printer with a proper-spec PCB heated bed and single extruder, assuming the power supply isn't a cheap, over-rated Chinese supply. I have built several printers with heated beds using 203W XBox 360 power supplies, whichby NewPerfection - General
Re: Importance of a fan shroud? - 10 years ago
QuoteOhmarinusIt's a Jhead from reprapworld, my 3mm jhead functions perfectly, but this 1.75mm one just doesn't want to work. Do you happen to know if the J-Head from reprapworld was made to Brian's specifications? And does the nozzle have the proper 2mm diameter melt zone, or is this a 3mm hot end with just the PTFE liner replaced with one with a smaller hole? QuoteOhmarinusAnyone got advice foby NewPerfection - General
Re: Problem compiling marlin firmware! - 10 years ago
The necessity of PID depends on the hot end design and power draw. For a hot end that has a lot of thermal mass but low power draw and good thermistor coupling, bang-bang control may be just fine and could keep the temperature within a few degrees of the set point. For a high-powered, low thermal mass hot end with a thermistor in a less-than-ideal location, PID would be almost an absolute mustby NewPerfection - General
Re: Heat Bed Sizing - 10 years ago
QuoteRodF Very interesting. I have a 12v 300mm x 300mm silicone heater which draws around 21 amps on my dc supply. So I have a SSR which I was going to turn the switch mode supply on and off with but a PWM on 230VAC seems a more elegant solution. Or just get a DC-DC SSR, and switch the output of the 12V supply rather than the AC input. This would probably be a lot cheaper than getting a new silby NewPerfection - General
Re: Z-axis Problem - 10 years ago
QuotePaul ArminSo when i do have a rostock i cant just change the normal configuration.h file? how do i get the other one then? If you have a recent version of Marlin, the firmware tells you where to get this. //=========================================================================== //============================= DELTA Printer =============================== //===============================by NewPerfection - General
Re: Cupcake CNC update - 10 years ago
QuoteAngelOfGrief1. For the XYZ part I am looking at Makergear M2 design. Essentially, this: It seems quite easy to follow. Linear guides for X and Y stages, linear bearings for the Z stage etc etc, I can get all that off Aliexpress. Metal frame -- quite easy to cut either from steel or aluminum. What do you people say? Is the M2 mechanics a decent layout for a 3D printer? I would like it to bby NewPerfection - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 - Short Circuit Question- - 10 years ago
You probably fried the MOSFET, which failed in a conducting state. Easy way to check - measure the resistance across the MOSFET and see if it is a short circuit. You can replace the MOSFET ( ), or just switch to using the second extruder heater output if you don't use a RAMPS-controlled fan. Just switch the pin definitions in pins.h for the extruder heater pin and fan pin.by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Free Book. 3D Printing: Rise of the Third Industrial Revolution - 10 years ago
Quoten9jcv Guys, I do not think it is appropriate to defeat the DRM. They are already giving it away. At some point they wish to sell it. For an author to make an offer like that and then still on the first page of posts to discuss ripping the DRM and filesharing it, IMHO you should be ashamed, and NewPerfection, aren't you a moderator here, if so that is a very poor example to set. I neveby NewPerfection - General
Re: Gen6 auto-level - 10 years ago
QuoteGuizmo12 only 3 springs to adjust so there is always one off side. This makes no sense. Having three mounting points is ideal for leveling the bed. Position the extruder over or next to one mounting point and home the Z axis (carefully! if the bed is way off you don't want to crash into the bed!). Adjust the bed leveling screw so that the nozzle just touches the bed (some people like toby NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Re: Italian section restyling 
- 10 years ago
QuoteMattMoses For example, this image looks familiar: Who took the original photograph? Have they released the rights to it? I do believe that is a MendelMax 2.0. Looks pretty close to the image here: Edit: and yeah, we do need to make sure all the images we use are free-use and properly attributed if necessary. Maybe we could set up a wiki page of RepRap-themed clip art, and draw from theby NewPerfection - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: Updated Marlin customized for Mendel90 - 10 years ago
QuoteMogal Is there a way to download (save) the firmware currently installed on the arduino? I'd like to give this a go, but I'd like to save my current firmware 'just in case' I'd like to revert back. Not really. If you have a proper AVR programmer, it may be possible to retrieve the compiled binary off of the Arduino, but it probably wouldn't be easy to do.by NewPerfection - Mendel90
Re: Problem compiling marlin firmware! - 10 years ago
Those are just recommended starting values for those hot ends. The firmware needs something to start from, so pick a set and leave them uncommented. After you get your firmware working you will run PID autotune to get proper values for your hot end.by NewPerfection - General
Re: DIYTechShop i3xl Hot End Issue - 10 years ago
tl;dr: Contact DIYTechShop and get a replacement. They have been having quality control issues with their hot ends.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Problem compiling marlin firmware! - 10 years ago
Did you try compiling the firmware before you started messing with settings that you know nothing about? That way you would know if it was your fault or not. Leave PID enabled. It gives better control of temperature on the hot end. Leave one of the PID value sets uncommented.by NewPerfection - General
Re: having trouble will steppers binding on new build - 10 years ago
Quoteaye_b_red_beard While I am pouting, what would you suggest? Go ahead and run your printer as-is, you will just have to reduce the maximum speeds and accelerations that you run your machine at. You can print at slow speeds (20 mm/s or less) for now, which should produce acceptable parts, with maybe some oozing issues due to slow travel rates. Quoteaye_b_red_beard I am thinking revamp x andby NewPerfection - General
Re: Printing temporary structures in another material - 10 years ago
Quotesclaes It would be useful if temporary structures could be printed in another material: e.g. wax or a mixture of pla and wax. It would be a lot easier to remove those temporary structures after the object is printed. Has anyone tried this? Yes, many people have tried this, including myself. It's still very experimental, but some people have had good success. PVA as support for PLA, PLA asby NewPerfection - General
Re: Calibrating - 10 years ago
Well, I now have the opinion that reprapit.com is a shady business, if in fact that is the hot end you ordered and the one pictured on your printer is what you received. They took the image and description of the J-Head directly from the RepRap wiki (here), but are selling a cheap clone that does not match the image or description, and even worse, are selling it for the same price as an originalby NewPerfection - Printing
Re: RepStrippa, my plans on a multifunction 3D printer Comments are welcome, let me know your thoughts - 10 years ago
I can't seem to find a data sheet for that particular motor, but many stepper motors loose as much as 90% of their torque as they approach higher speeds. This may be ok though since 3D printing doesn't require large forces (as long as your Y axis isn't too heavy), and for milling you won't be moving nearly as fast. That stepper driver looks really nice. I like that it will work with Marlin as-by NewPerfection - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Italian section restyling - 10 years ago
The icons really are a nice touch. Maybe see what the users of your forum think of them after a while, and we could do something similar to the rest of the RepRap subforums. I really do like how basic and clean the RepRap forum is right now, but small touches like your icons could still improve the overall look. It would be nice if we could get some themed icons made specifically for RepRap foby NewPerfection - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: Calibrating - 10 years ago
Hmm, the hot end in your picture is definitely not the same as the one you linked to. The hot end you have in your picture looks like one of these: (without all the Kapton wrapped around it). That is definitely a J-Head, and a clone at that. See: (that blog is run by the original designer and manufacturer of the J-Head type hot ends). Are you getting any plastic grindings or dust by or in tby NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Cura, parts created from SketchUp and MAX TEMP ERRORS - 10 years ago
Were you getting MAX TEMP errors with other prints before you tried Cura? Is your temperature reading reasonable when the hot end is cooled down (close to room temp)?by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends - 10 years ago
Quotecfy7 Any ideas for a fix, or should I just call up Diytechshop? You can try PTFE tape to seal the threads, but personally I would just call up DIY Tech Shop and have them replace the hot end for you.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Italian section restyling - 10 years ago
QuoteGordie Do you think someone could be offended by using icons, founded by a Google search, without asking permissions to use them? Most of those images look generic enough that you're probably OK using them. However, this image: I know for a fact is copyrighted, and is from the book Code Complete by Steve McConnell. Jeff Atwood uses that image as the logo for his blog, Coding Horror, butby NewPerfection - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: RepStrippa, my plans on a multifunction 3D printer Comments are welcome, let me know your thoughts - 10 years ago
QuoteGordie I thought the leadscrew could be strong and fast enough as it has a 10mm of step travel and the NEMA 23 has 15kg.cm holding torque. The holding torque of the stepper on the lead screw isn't of too much concern, as much as it's top speed, torque at speed, and acceleration ability. You would have a hard time driving a NEMA 23 past 1000 RPM, especially with inexpensive drivers. Plus,by NewPerfection - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: New Own Design Printer 'Cherry Pi' - 10 years ago
QuoteRickM I'm in the UK. Sadly all the circular mirrors around here seem to be made of acrylic. Here you go:by NewPerfection - Delta Machines