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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 10 years ago
QuoteTheCrey is it possible to just make the printer higher ? I mean i have some 100cm rods here, could i just scale it higher without any issues ? RichRap's blog has your answer: QuoteRichRap "Is 3DR scale-able?" Yes, easy to go taller, just needs some thought about rod length. To go wider you will need to consider rod sizes. I always intended to be able to insert another printed part (spacer)by NewPerfection - Delta Machines
Re: Help me identify fault with my print. - 10 years ago
Looks like a couple of issues. Speed and/or acceleration too fast and/or stepper current too low, causing skipped steps and shifting in the layers. Inconsistent extrusion, caused by stepper current too low and/or hotend problems. Could be other reasons as well. You could try a max speed of 50 mm/s for printing and 100 mm/s for travel moves, if everything else is set properly your printer shouby NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Calibrating - 10 years ago
What happens when it stops extruding enough plastic? Is the extruder motor skipping, or is the hobbed bolt grinding into the filament? What kind of plastic are you using (ABS or PLA)? It looks like you have a knock-off Chinese made J-Head hot end. Those a notorious for not working reliably, especially with PLA.by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Gen7 v1.5 Teacup - stepper motors - no sign of life - 10 years ago
Sounds like the stepsticks are causing a short circuit on the output pins of the ATMega. I'm surprised the ATMega hasn't died because of this. You could check the resistance between the enable and ground pins of each stepstick, as well as the resistance between direction and ground pins. If you get a small value, there is a problem with your stepstick. According to the datasheet for the A4988by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: having trouble will steppers binding on new build - 10 years ago
cnc dick is correct, let's back it up with some calculations: For most stepper motors, you're looking at about 1000 RPM (17 RPS) max unloaded speed (very optimistic). That translates to 27 mm/s for 1/4-16 screws. Pretty slow, especially considering that you would have trouble even reaching 1000 RPM in the first place. And that's only if you can step it that fast. A 16MHz Arduino maxes out aby NewPerfection - General
Re: Free Book. 3D Printing: Rise of the Third Industrial Revolution - 10 years ago
Quotewaitaki Just a con trick - the link will not work. The link works just fine. I even downloaded the book and stripped it of DRM. It's now readable outside of Amazon's Kindle appby NewPerfection - General
Re: Z axis - how to allow minus direction Arduino Sprinter - 10 years ago
//----------------------------------------------------------------------- //// ENDSTOP SETTINGS: //----------------------------------------------------------------------- // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 //#define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING // If defined the endstops will only be used for homing <-- Uncomby NewPerfection - General
Re: Z-axis Problem - 10 years ago
If you have a Rostock, you must use the delta-specific Configuration.h file. It even says so right at the top of the Configuration.h file that you posted: //=========================================================================== //============================= DELTA Printer =============================== //=========================================================================== // For aby NewPerfection - General
Re: Calibrating - 10 years ago
What extruder and hot end are you using? Pictures will help if you don't know what type they are. Have you adjusted the current to the extruder motor?by NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Hardware store hot end - 10 years ago
QuotenickloganLinux equivalent of Wordpress Um, what? WordPress is web software. It's platform agnostic (at least on the user's end - I've only every tried to run it on a Linux server. Apparently it will run on a Windows server too though.) You can set up a free blog at wordpress.com, or host a WordPress install yourself on your own site/server, like I do. WordPress is very easy to use.by NewPerfection - General
Re: Cura, parts created from SketchUp and MAX TEMP ERRORS - 10 years ago
This has nothing to do with SketchUp or the STL. Are you getting a room temperature reading from your hot end before you start printing? Is Cura trying to set a hot end temperature in excess of the max temperature you have set in firmware?by NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Re: mendel commisioning - need help - 10 years ago
QuoteBasicblacklabel.com i tryed switching the wires out for 3 instead of two, it didnt work but the LED still lit. I only have two uncut 3 wire cables left so i attached them to the x and y endstops and tryed to test them, would not connecting the z endstop effect the result. and if I have a 4 wire extension would cutting one wire from that be the same as a 3 wire? If you are wired to three ofby NewPerfection - General Mendel Topics
Re: Problems with either extruder motor or circuit board - 10 years ago
3Dmaker4U has some good advice. Of course you are going to have to move axes manually sometimes, and you don't want to have to unplug the motors every time. However, do move them slowly, as the motors will act as generators and feed back current into your electronics. The faster you move them, the more voltage is generated, and enough voltage will start damaging things.by NewPerfection - Huxley
Re: “Prometheus Hot End”: New Customizable All-Metal Hot End! 
[Many Pictures] - 10 years ago
I had this thread reported for the following reason: QuoteThis is an Indiegogo campaign promotion, it should be moved to "Crowdfunding Projects Announcements". For now I am going to leave this thread here, since this thread is asking for advice and critiques on a product that hasn't yet been placed on a crowd funding site. A more appropriate place may be the Plastic Extruder Working Group, butby NewPerfection - General
Re: RepStrippa, my plans on a multifunction 3D printer 
Comments are welcome, let me know your thoughts - 10 years ago
I can see the reason for using a belt drive on the X axis, but there's not much point in using a (likely more expensive) screw drive on the Y axis, since you will be limited in milling force by the belt-driven X, and be limited in print speed by the screw-driven Y. In other words, having the X axis driven in a different manner than the Y axis simply combines the worst characteristics of each metby NewPerfection - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Help! Single Arduino control of a Darwin - 10 years ago
Quotessloan I have tried to load the GCode_Interpreter into the Arduino 1.0.5 software It's unlikely that the code will compile properly in newer versions of the Arduino software. Try using an older version. Maybe even as far back as Arduino 18 or earlier - try for a version that was released around the time the GCode_Interpreter was released. I remember way back when I was setting up my Mcby NewPerfection - Darwin
Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 10 years ago
Quotelandsharkxx How much does it cost to build this? You just might be able to build one of these for around $450. The cost is going to vary from person to person, as everyone makes different choices on where to source components, what components to use, and where to cut corners (or not).by NewPerfection - Delta Machines
Re: Marlin + RAMBo: Unpredictable moves of the Z carriage; - 10 years ago
RAMBo only has one Z driver, it just has two connections to the same driver for when you want to drive two motors in parallel (such as with a Prusa Mendel-style printer). It seems like the Z driver may be the culprit here. An easy way to check is to swap the pin numbers in pins.h so that the Z axis in firmware points to the E1 driver, and you can then plug your Z axis motor into the E1 port. Iby NewPerfection - Delta Machines
Re: 3 fans together on ramps 1.4? - 10 years ago
Nothing wrong with directly connecting them to the PSU as long as you don't mind them running at full speed all the time. It's likely that you have one fan cooling the electronics, in which case it can be wired directly to the PSU, so it is always cooling the electronics. The other two fans (hot end thermal break cooling and print cooling?) can either be wired directly to the PSU to be on all tby NewPerfection - General
Re: Autoleveling Doesnt seem to be working - 10 years ago
Nope, unless you specifically have your slicer set to generate relative movements, you want the G90 there. There's no good reason to do this except for the extruder axis - There's no real need to use relative extrusion either, though it does make some things easier, such as manually editing the gcode. The problem is that your start gcode homes the printer again before printing (bold below).by NewPerfection - General
Re: Adaptive Extrusion Feed - 10 years ago
The problem is that filament that varies much in diameter tends to be low quality and oval-shaped. So you would need to measure the diameter of the filament in different directions. Also, filament that's low quality, oval-shaped, and has a variable diameter tends to have fillers and contaminants in it, making it less than ideal for printing for a number of reasons. However, if you were produciby NewPerfection - Developers
Re: Autoleveling Doesnt seem to be working - 10 years ago
You shouldn't need to do anything else. Are you doing G28 and G29 manually before you hit print? If so, does your gcode contain an additional G28 at the beginning? Can you post the first chunk (20 lines or so) of gcode of one of the prints you have done?by NewPerfection - General
Re: Heated Bed Separation - 10 years ago
This is a PCB heated bed I assume? The only real way to get a flat print surface if the PCB is out of whack is to clamp something stiff on top of it. I have found that glass often isn't stiff enough (at least when it's ~3mm or less thick) and will flex enough to make printing difficult if the PCB underneath is significantly warped. Your best option would be to pick up a new heated bed from a rby NewPerfection - Printing
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quotethejollygrimreaper Quote3DogNate Quotethejollygrimreaper Quote3DogNate Geezz.... I'm ashamed to be referred to as a geek sometimes. Back to my hot end... If you have something to contribute to having a successful E3D implementation I'm happy to hear it... otherwise... don't waste the thread space. are you running the bulldog XL or the bulldog lite? and which size of the filament? if yoby NewPerfection - General
Re: Up and Running - 10 years ago
Looks great Have you printed anything yet?by NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: Power Supply Requesites - 10 years ago
Quotestephenrc Get a good power supply, like the ones here: ATX power supplies are not really designed to only have the 12v used, they usually need a load on the 5v for the 12v to regulate properly. I second that. The Meanwell supplies are well-made and inexpensive. At $43.60 (+shipping) if you are in the US, it's a great deal. If you aren't in the US, you should be able to find a supplierby NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: E3D hotend on Gregs extruder with alu x - 10 years ago
tl;dr: skip to the last paragraph for what you need to know to fix your problem. The groove on E3D hot ends does not match the groove on most other groove-mount hot ends. This does cause issues. There was a good reason for the metal E3D not matching other (PEEK and PTFE) hot ends, but that reason is somewhat irrelevant since the most common mounting style has changed. It used to be that groovby NewPerfection - Reprappers
Re: RAMPS 1.4 w/ MEGA not recognised in COM ports in windows 8.1? - 10 years ago
Sounds like a problem with your Surface Pro 2 recognizing the FTDI chip on the Mega. Have you installed the updated Arduino drivers for Windows 8.1? Does Windows give you a device not recognized error or anything? Does anything new pop up in Device Manager when you plug the Mega into your Surface Pro 2?by NewPerfection - General
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends - 10 years ago
QuoteTedMilker QuoteNewPerfectionit works far better than just wrapping the whole thing in Kapton tape like most people do and leaving air gaps everywhere. The smart ones fix the tolerance issues before wrapping in kapton so air gaps aren't an issue. Furnace cement and RTV silicone just make it look like way too much of a mess and your hotend look like it was assembled with trash. IMHO, the fuby NewPerfection - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quotegreenman100 Quote3DogNate Quotegreenman100 Quote3DogNatethat end of the heat sink is colder than the ambient temp in the room thanks to two fans blowing on the heat sink.,.. so it's irrelevant to my filament jamming up. This is exciting, you have broken the laws of thermodynamics! Huh??? are you saying that if you blow a fan on a room temperature block of aluminum that it is impossible toby NewPerfection - General