I think everyone just eventually moves on to the next new cheap printer hype. Currently it seems to be the FG FT5 and the TeVo Tarantula. My FG 2020 i3 has kind of evolved, working up to its eventual 12x12" 1/4" aluminum tooling plate build plate. I got my silicone heater and ssr in this week, just need to order some more extrusion. Going to have a double z rail like the Taz eventually. Not sby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I am trying to setup BLTouch with Marlin 1.1.0 RC7 and am having some issues. My setup has the X endstop on the right side. The issue is when I do a G28, it moves the Z-axis up 10mm then homes X and Y, then moves X & Y to the safe home position(No issues so far). When it starts to home the Z axis it is moving up away from the bed. If I invert the Z axis, it homes down, but it also movesby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks all for the replies. I had .5mm set for the nozzle size in the slic3r retraction page for some reason, I changed it to .4mm and I think print quality improved a hair. I print infill at 55mm/s and perimeters at 30-40mm/s. I know for a fact that my Z m5 threaded rods are bent up pretty good. I ordered some replacements from McMaster Carr. I think with those replaced and I am going to adby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I am trying to improve my print quality and am not sure where to start. I have calibrated my e-steps for my filament(Inland White PETG). I have printed a .4mm single wall calibration print and it is close to .4mm. I have messed with my stepper driver pots and I think they are turned up high enough, I do not get missed steps and they do not overheat. My setup is below: -Stock M5 threaded rodby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I switched over to 8mm lead screws but could never keep them level. The nuts were just too far out of precision. I got the leadscrews off eBay and I thought they were 2mm pitch but they ended up being 8mm pitch. I switched back to the wobbly m5 threaded rod but didn't want to have to change out my x-axis printed parts, so I found these anti backlash nut holders on thingiverse.com which workby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotesethmo Therippa, I installed your extruder with my e3dv6 last night. After bolting it together, I noticed that my e3dv6 is not perpendicular to the bed, it is at a slight angle. I am going to try to shim it and adjust the bed level after work, but I think it will work out great. Mine does that too, it's the x-carriage we're using, not the extruder I looked at it tonightby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Therippa, I installed your extruder with my e3dv6 last night. After bolting it together, I noticed that my e3dv6 is not perpendicular to the bed, it is at a slight angle. I am going to try to shim it and adjust the bed level after work, but I think it will work out great.by sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I am getting some odd lines in my print and it seems as though my extruder is not smooth(stock extruder/hot end). In my other printers, my extruder turns at a smooth consistent pace when doing infill or long perimeters. With my Folger Tech, it looks jerky. What should the voltage be on the stepper driver pots? I tried adjusting them, but it did not seem to help. I am running therippa's Marliby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa In my attempt to try to fix noise/play, I installed legit high quality ($5/piece) LM8UU's I picked up from Misumi. What. A. Difference. As quiet as a Drylin, but much easier to move along the smooth rods. If you don't feel like going the route of sonnylowe's V-slot system, I'd recommend these. I was curious to see how much an improvement those are in comparison to the cheap chinaby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I have not tried the Ninjaflex Semiflex, but I do have some Sainsmart TPU that will probably work, just not as elastic as Ninjaflex. I may give it another go with Ninjaflex. I think if I drilled out the hole in the MK9 extruder so I could slip a bowden tube right up to the extruder gear, I tihnk it would help a lot.by sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
So I have had surprisingly good luck with the stock hot end and MK9 extruder. I have an E3DV6 from another printer that I wanted to try so I printed elkayem's mount and it printed PLA just fine, then I tried some Ninjaflex and the MK9 extruder does not like it. Does anyone know of a direct drive extruder with E3DV6 mount that works with flexible filament? I already have an MK8 extruder gear anby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
I like my borosilicate glass + pei sheet. I just got mine together yesterday. Some calibrations to do and adjusting of the stepper driver pots, these steppers are picky. I will print a mount for my e3dv6 this weekend and my leadscrews come Monday. I really dislike threaded rod for the z axis. I have the extended mounts and bearing holders printed for the z axis, just waiting on the leadscrby sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Elkayem that is pretty impressive. What mods have you done?by sethmo - Prusa i3 and variants
Overdue for an update. I have been printing a lot and have had some improvement, but still not where I would like to be at yet. Problem 1: Retraction. I swapped to my E3d V6 and while print quality improved, I still have issues with oozing and retraction. If I go 6mm or more on retraction, it seems to jam my hot end. I am using 5.5mm now and I do not get any jams, but I still get stringing anby sethmo - Smart_Rap
It could be that my Z is not calibrated properly. Do you know what the correct equation is for the Smartcore?by sethmo - Smart_Rap
Not much to update. I went back to the Smartcore extruder and got two 20mm boxes to print. Not the best quality but turned out OK for first prints. Print was done at 50mm/s which is probably a bit fast to start out at. Suggestions on fine tuning?by sethmo - Smart_Rap
I got a lot done over the past few days. Everything is now wired as of yesterday morning, then I went to lunch and when I came back, one of my stepper drivers stopped working. I moved the driver to a different axis and that axis would no longer move. I ordered some new ones and will have to wait for them to come in, not sure what really happened though. Still not done with wiring management,by sethmo - Smart_Rap
Quotemandrav Here's the modified head.stl for LM8UU, if anyone needs it. I printed it yesterday and it's running as expected so, yeah, it's also tested I printed one at .3mm layers and 25% infill and one at .2mm layers and 40% infill. Both printed about the same for me where one side of the bearing snaps in tighter than the other. I installed the head regardless though and it seems to work juby sethmo - Smart_Rap
Awesome dkulinski, I am glad it is just not me. I will also take a look at the jscad when I get off work.by sethmo - Smart_Rap
I have heard that they are similar, but the viscosity is different, at least comparing the Aerosol WD40 to this 3-in-1 oil. Check your local auto parts store, they should carry some sort of general lubricating oil. Whatever you do, don't use a white lithium grease, I made that mistake in my Makibox, the grease turned tacky after a few months and I had to clean everything. Last night I got myby sethmo - Smart_Rap
QuoteZlob I love your LCD enclosure .. can we have the stl file ? And what is "3 in1 oil" ??? thanks I used this is the enclosure This is the bracket I used, but I made a new bracket arm so I could mount it behind the mdf And this is the 3-in-1 oil I used on the bearings, I got it at Auto Zoneby sethmo - Smart_Rap
Quotercjoseb ... SmartRapCore adjustment tool!! Comes in handy! Haha I love my mallet! I have a hammer in my office with a "ASUS Repair Kit" label on it I had a few minutes on my lunch hour so I cut out two holes for these. The switch is cool, I don't really like how bulky the USB connector is, but it should work. Here is a link to all of the pictures I have taken thus far:by sethmo - Smart_Rap
Thanks. I'm big on cable management, you should see my pc haha. Im not in a hurry to finish so I am going to print out some cable management solutions from thingiverse this week while I work on the wiring And hot end stuffby sethmo - Smart_Rap
Haven't had a whole lot of time to work on this again, but I did spend some time cleaning my Makibox and it is printing well again. I made a new v1.2 Z Slide and printed the landing gear made by Bruno I printed a case for my full LCD and modified a bracket to work That is about it for progress. For some reason, my Ramps 1.4 board only came with 2 jumpers, so I have to scavenge for jumperby sethmo - Smart_Rap
I don't see any issues with it. I went with a 200x200x300 design for the sake of cheapness. When you get into the larger heated beds, you have to start looking into bigger or separate power supplies with relays which adds more to the cost. I don't see any issue with having a 300x300x300 Smartrap Core. I think the bigger you go though, the thicker the wood you should use and you should probablby sethmo - Smart_Rap
Thanks Serge! I haven't had much of a chance to work on it. I did print the v1.2 XY Bearings, Y Slide, and Head. For the head, I am not having good luck mounting the bearings in the open slot, my printer must have printed the openings too tight. I sanded one head block down and ended up having to zip tie the bearing in. Any tips? I also installed the belt on the Z axis and it is very smoothby sethmo - Smart_Rap
What are those black bearings you are using? Do they work better than the crappy quality Chinese LM8UU bearings? I like your double Z axis!by sethmo - Smart_Rap
I clamped a few straight pieces of 2x6 to my workbench to help server as a guide in keeping the boards on the same plane. I used a speed square to ensure they were square and pre-drilled holes and screwed the panels together once I glued. I worked one panel at a time and made sure they were all square with the base, then each other. I bought some Nema 17 motors for $48 shipped. Their stats arby sethmo - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz That's strange, it is designed to print stand up ? I've made angles under the belt tensioners so it could print like it is . If you remove support system it should print ok (we do actually pretty good here ) . I am a dummy, I did not realize that the hot end mount was separate from the entire block body lol. It should print fine without supports once I split them. I was howeby sethmo - Smart_Rap
What is the best way to print the new v1.2 head block? It seems that no matter which way it is turned, it will need supports. Is there a recommended orientation to print it?by sethmo - Smart_Rap