I had to be different :-) I have a 2/16" thick metal (magnetic) plate (available at home depot) under my PE print bed so that the sensor can pick up the bed from quite a distance. Since the sensor is mounted and held in place in it's mount with two nuts it can be adjusted up and down easily and then locked into place. I configured marlin for auto level grid with 9 points and performed a G28 coby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
My Pleasure! Good luck with the build! Yes, this community is great. I wish many more would be like this. Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I am using two 5/16 threaded rods, one in the front and the other in the back. Works great! I used to use a dual belt system but the threaded rods produce better prints. My print bed is very large.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
If you are not mentally stable, I would hate to see your prints Nice work. I like the Z axis setup you made. Looks really simple!by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Your X axis, the one that goes moves the hot end front to back is not perpendicular with the Y axis which is what holds and moves the print bed. On the SmartRap the axis are reversed. The most liekly cause of the slanted print is your Z axis rods. It's very easy on the SmartRap to get them crooked. I know as I had one. This affects the X axis. Place the SmartRap so that you can get a full vby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Here is a video I made for the SmartRap covering the endstops. You can follow along as the concept is the same. Endstopsby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Madmike said is perfectly :-)by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
He's a nice guy to deal with.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Sweet! Thanks for the info. I have a MicroCenter not far from me but HK is always a good source since I order r/c stuff from there as well.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Nice. Have you seen this one? HobbyKing now sells it for $180.00by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I have ordered printed parts for my smartrap from MakerCoast and the parts are very good quality. Just be aware that since he is printing the parts from gitgub you will need to use wood/rods that are set for the dimensions of the parts.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Inland PLA. Available from Micro Center. Works great and very inexpensive!by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
At the end of a print, why not just retract some filament back into the extruder, then move the extruder off of the print area, bring it down to 0 and then have it move across on the print bed, thereby scraping the nozzle clean?by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
A hobbed bolt is for a wades extruder and the SmartRapCore typically uses a Bowden extruder which does not require a hobbed bolt. I went with this extruder instead of the one from SmartFriendz. I could not get enough force on the filament with the one from SmartFriendz. This one works really well: BOM is listed in the article. The default SmartRapCore extruder is based on the simple extruby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I purchased another heatsink that had the hole already tapped but you could easily tap it.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
That hot end has been awesome so far. Have only had to take it apart and clean it up once.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I used the glass from a 10" x 10" picture frame that I purchased at Hobby Lobby as my printed bed (non heated). I increased the Y and X rods accordingly and added two additional bearing supports at the very front of the glass bed for support. The supports are 3D printed parts with 608ZZ bearings to keep the glass from angling downward.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Sounds like your X axis (front to back) that holds the hot end is not perpendicular to the Y axis (print bed) that goes left to right. It's quite easy to fix. Since the X axis rides on the Z axis up and down, if the Z rods go out of alignment, it reflects on the X axis. Looking from above, gently hold the X axis asembly at the motor that moves the X axis back and forth. Do not hild it at theby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
The 4.9.2. jhead attachment parts (not lite version) will work for the genie but you may need to file down the piece on attachment plate that the arm rests on. The heatsinks may get in the way..by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
If you would like to use Cura to separate out the parts: It's a little tedious but it works. Once the entire printed parts plate appears in OpenJSCad: 1. Click on get stl. 2. Once the stl file is downloaded to your pc give it a name like Master plate. 3. Open it up in Cura. 4. In Cura right click on the part and select separate object into parts and give it some time 5. Once done delete partsby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi Mike: The bushing that I printed only lasted for a while and eventually I ended up with too much play. I switched everything out to actual LM8UU and LM6UU bearings. I beleve there have been some issues with the latest parts in regards to the bearings not fitting properly or the belts coming off the sliding bearing mounts but you would need to use them to see if you get the same issues. Iby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
After you click on the Edit in OpenJSCad link 1. select printed parts plate next to what to show 2. Set your parameters for rods, board width and motors 3. set 32 as the resolution 4. Click on update Once the entire printed parts plate appears: 1. Click on get stl. 2. Once the stl file is downloaded to your pc give it a name like Master plate. 3. Open it up in Cura. 4. In Cura right clicby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Exactly the reason I went with 2" x 3" clear pine and made it using horizontal and vertical members. Easy to cut on a miter saw.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Yes two of each part, whether mechanical, ie. motors, screws, nuts, bearings, etc. or 3D printed part.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks for the compliment. If you are going with a double z axis for either a threaded rod or lead screw you can get the redesigned parts from jerry on the youmagine website. If you want to use a belt system, then just print two of each of the z axis parts. The single z axis and double z axis both get mounted in the front or back. For the front you can easily mount the parts by puting bracesby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi Richard: Welcome to SmartRapCore World of Madness! The SmartRapCore is customizable so that you can choose the thickness of the wood you want to use for the box. The correct place to find the 3D printed parts is on YouMagine.Com under the documents tab. Here is my video explaining how to use it and customize the parts: SmartRapCore I also have an entire video series on building it and aby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
kkozel, as with anything it's a 50/50 chance when you buy from the chinese. I have a $10.00 all metal jhead (e3DV5 clone) that works fantastic after a little touch up. All my electronics, including the motors, were ordered via AliExpress and I have not had any issues at all with them. The belts, bearings, etc. I purchased from ebay sellers in the U.S. but of course they source their stuff frby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I had the opposite effect with the bushings I used made from PLA. They were good starting out but when I started to do longer prints, it would randomly bind and cause one of the axis to get stuck a little bit and it would destroy the whole print. I converted every bushing to a bearing which happen to be very smooth on the rods. I got lucky I had some that were well behaved :-) Prints are muchby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
PEI is short for Polyetherimide. It's kind of a plastic sheet that can tolerate high temperatures. When scratched up a bit with sandpaper it can be printed on without the use of tape or glue and can be used with our without a heated bed. Lutzbotz uses it on their TAZ line of 3d printers.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap