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http://reprap.org/wiki/Smartrap_mini A new printer near first release, still in development ... Its main goals are ease/speed of assembly, low cost and modularity (being an easy basement for new designs).
Re: Smooth rods dimensions for coreXY 300x300mm? - 9 years ago
QuoteJ-Max Hi, To me, a wooden box may be stiffer than a module20 aluminium structure, and you already have an enclosure. But it's maybe a question of look. Through, the SmartRapCore have 6mm rods, which is a too small diameter IMHO, even for the 220x220 regular print area. Some users upgraded to 8mm. I can't imagine a 300x300 print area may work well with 6mm rods. Through, maybe the output eby mike3 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Prints leaning forwards - 9 years ago
QuoteEight20 Hi guys, So I got my prusa i3 set up and working nicely, but I have recently tried abs and all of a sudden I have a random problem I don't know how to sort. the prints start great, the first layer goes down and stick the poo to a blanket and the follow layers are great, but then something goes wrong and it starts to lean, the first print (one the right) started leaning toward theby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Smooth rods dimensions for coreXY 300x300mm? - 9 years ago
Quotecristian Yes, I guess I have no other choice than builiding by trial and error unfortunately... If I ever manage to build the printer, I will post some reviews of the linear guides I buy. Thanks for your advices. I built the SmartCore Printer with a 300x300 bed .. with no problems .. do a search on it.. there is a OpenJcad that all you do is input the dimensions and it will give you theby mike3 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 9 years ago
I have had my Folger Tech 2020 printer now for over a month.. would I buy again.. yes I would.. granted it was missing some screws and other small parts.. and They had to replace the Ramps board.. But after those issues were solved.. it was printing great from the first print... I know others did not have this experience.. but I can say 99% of any problems were on the hardware side of things.. Iby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Quotereifsnyderb Folger Tech is not selling genuine J-Head hot-ends. In fact, most J-Heads are cheap knock-offs made in China. There is more information on J-Heads at these two websites: Here is a link that shows the difference between clones (counterfeit) J-Heads and the real thing: Genuine J-Heads are properly assembled before shipping. Best Regards, well I had mine completely apartby mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: Another newbie's Smarcore build - 9 years ago
QuoteMichaelBrock I finally have the printed pieces in hand and I'm starting assembly. These are versin 1.2.4 pieces. However, i'm having an issue with the xy head assembly. The bearings are sliding very well on the smooth rod when not in the mount but when put into the head assembly they are slightly out of alignment and grab. For the bottom pair of bearings I managed to loosen up the mounby mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Got it from Folger Tech.. but I found the problem ... where the heatbreak attaches to the hot end wasn't screwed in all the way .. guess I need to not assume the factory puts things together properly..by mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotemike3 Quotemike3 Quotemike3 Thanks rcjoseb Video helped much.. MadMike8 Thanks for the guide.. After a few days I finally got back to the printer.. first I used a regular endstop on the Z axis and it will trigger.. but when I installed the Proximity sensor using M119 it doesn't show triggered either way contacting metal or not. I have a 150k and a 100k resistor to lowby mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Quotemike3 Quotemike3 Thanks rcjoseb Video helped much.. MadMike8 Thanks for the guide.. After a few days I finally got back to the printer.. first I used a regular endstop on the Z axis and it will trigger.. but when I installed the Proximity sensor using M119 it doesn't show triggered either way contacting metal or not. I have a 150k and a 100k resistor to lower the voltage.. and it shows arounby mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Quotemike3 Thanks rcjoseb Video helped much.. MadMike8 Thanks for the guide.. After a few days I finally got back to the printer.. first I used a regular endstop on the Z axis and it will trigger.. but when I installed the Proximity sensor using M119 it doesn't show triggered either way contacting metal or not. I have a 150k and a 100k resistor to lower the voltage.. and it shows around 4.50v notby mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Thanks rcjoseb Video helped much.. MadMike8 Thanks for the guide.. After a few days I finally got back to the printer.. first I used a regular endstop on the Z axis and it will trigger.. but when I installed the Proximity sensor using M119 it doesn't show triggered either way contacting metal or not. I have a 150k and a 100k resistor to lower the voltage.. and it shows around 4.50v not near metalby mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Quotemadmike8 Have you tried M119 and see whats triggered? If they show all triggered even when they're not, or all open even though they should be triggered then you can try inverting the endstop logic. well i hate to show my ignorance .. but how to I try M119 and how would I invert the endstop logic?.. I totaly new to this... thanksby mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
OK I uploaded what I believe is the proper firmware. I have control over the X,Y,Z and extruder .&. hot end with Repetier but the end stops aren't working? I plugged them in where is shown at the Smartfriends assembly site...by mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 9 years ago
Quotemike3 Quotemel0n Quotemike3but my hotend stopped heating and lost control of bed heating..will up date after replacing... Sounds like a bad FET :[ it was probably correct for them to send you a new Ramps. Hopefully your arduino is ok. Eureka !!! its alive.... just printed a part for the Smart Core .. came out perfect... using the Smart LCD .. havn't tested it with the USB yet.. but I can nby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
I went to generate the Jcad smartcore at OpenJcad and It will not work.. now looks like someone went in and messed it up somehow,, or at least it looks that way...by mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Thanks .. one more question before I let the printer self destruct.. I built ver. 1.2.4. and I have the end stops jury rigged and am not happy with them that way.. I have looked everywhere on instructions on where to place them and I am usually pretty good at figuring these sorts of things out but I cannot see where on the printed parts to put them.. any Ideas...by mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
I went to the Smart Friends github and downloaded their firmware and uploaded a file called Marlin mk7 is that the right one? I have control of the X.Y,Z Steppers and the extruder through Repetier Host.. So where do I go from here..I'm really not sure what I am doing...by mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: 
What else is going to go wrong now!! Solved. - 9 years ago
So everyone here isn't kids.. I am 60 myself and was wondering if there were some oldsters around.. my first dip into this 3D thing.. after retirement.. something to keep me busy and thinking..by mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: V1.2x issues - 9 years ago
Quote3DFreezeMe I use cheap waste-bin clear plastic bags as shroud/hood to keep the warmth inside and the draught outside. Let's hope the newer v1.2 will fix your issues! To get back on topic, I found the fix for the issues on the openjscad.org website on the Youmagine SmartFriendz SmartrapCore discussion page. The fix was posted by tseglevskiy: If you have error like this return this.color.jby mike3 - Smart_Rap
And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Got all the Parts printed and have received most of the rest the parts in the mail..Version 1.2.4. but need the firmware to upload to the arduino.. If someone has a working file ready to upload that works ,, to give me a place to start.. I am not very good a firmware/software end of things,,, I will be using a J-head no heat bed at this time,, and a 300x300 bed setup..ramps 1.4 and mega 2560...by mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 9 years ago
Quotemel0n Quotemike3but my hotend stopped heating and lost control of bed heating..will up date after replacing... Sounds like a bad FET :[ it was probably correct for them to send you a new Ramps. Hopefully your arduino is ok. Eureka !!! its alive.... just printed a part for the Smart Core .. came out perfect... using the Smart LCD .. havn't tested it with the USB yet.. but I can now print agby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 9 years ago
After a couple weeks emailing back and forth with Folger Tech .. I received my replacement Ramps board today .. looking forward to getting my printer working again.. was working great with no problems from the get go (from the very first print).. by following the instructions about bed being level and the spacing of the hot end and bed,, and downloading and installing the firmware and settings.exby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3 Build - 9 years ago
I have been dealing with them for around 2 weeks with sometimes 2-4 days in between answering back about my Extruder that stopped heating and my bed with runaway heat.. then they started asking the same questions I had already answered.. apparently more than one person answering back,going in circles , very very frustrating .. been without my printer over 2 weeks dealing with a poor customer servby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: thermistor location? power cable connections? - 9 years ago
Quotemel0n Quotetherippa QuoteSteve_in_NJ Quotewderoxas QuoteSteve_in_NJ Greetings all, Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info! I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete. 1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tipby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: V1.2x issues - 9 years ago
This is how I do it.. I export the split piece from Netfabb ,, to Repetier Host I then use the Cura in that program to slice .. it automatically does all that is needed ,,by mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: V1.2x issues - 9 years ago
Quote3DFreezeMe I have read somewhere that people who tried that, had issues with the two split parts where the rods are fastened. I believe that is why smerrett79 did ask that question. the part is structurally more sound printed on its side.. the split where the rods go when printed on its side has break away material for support it is easily popped or pushed out ,, it is intentionally thereby mike3 - Smart_Rap
Re: Folger Tech 2020 question - 9 years ago
Quotegmckee It sounds like you're describing the heatbreak. Teflon are lined on the inside with Teflon tubing which can break down at around 250c I believe. All metal aka stainless steal doesn't include Teflon lining. The specific type used in your printer should be replaced with the same. Look for a plastic tube inside to see if its lined or not. Thanks for you reply,, I will lookby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 9 years ago
Quoteejnelson first question for you all, I've been printing ABS at about 185 and PLA at 170 and just started PET at 175. I've done push plastic, microcenter inland, sainsmart, and hatchbox so far and they all fall into about those temperatures. I have done PID tune on my hotend. I've gotten some great prints, only major problem has been the stringies from the nozzle which seems to be a common prby mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 9 years ago
Quotemike3 Quotemike3 the few days I had my printer working correctly I used only ABS.. you had to almost put your nose very close to printer to smell anything... and after I got the heat settings dialed in the ABS worked great.. I started at 260 and 110 bed.. and went down when I got around 23o and lower that's when I started having problems with parts breaking more easily and not fully bonding.by mike3 - Prusa i3 and variants