Quotejanpenguin @lkcl I upgraded the Fisher to laser cut 3mm to 5 mm steel plate. The problem I experinced was the failure of plastic parts that join the steel plates. i would expect that, as the twisting forces that the plates create, even during the motion of the head, would be transferred to shearing effects on the join-points (through the screws holding the uprights). metal 60 degree bracby lkcl - Fisher
Quoteekaggrat @ikcl sorry for being harsh. but if you were intending to contribute to the design a little more upfront work would help the process. most of the discussions are started with a little base work done. Sure you are welcome to contribute. and a person with a fisher would be in a better place to respond to your query,, ps: you can easily grab the model from github to play around withby lkcl - Fisher
Quotejefbed A volatile thought process is what I am observing. A contribution is not a contribution if one should bow down and express tribute for such. It should be freely given whether appreciated or not. Then it will be appreciated. That is the core of open source. Your time is really worth no more than anyone else's time. You insinuated that your time was more valuable, however, than thby lkcl - Fisher
Quotejefbed Why should anyone answer your questions if you grub for money right away at the mere suggestion of dissent? I see no benefit to the community--Pass. If money is your thing, you should have enough to just buy a Fisher and answer your own questions. Take care. the point of the reply that i made, jefbed, is to illustrate that i am providing the design insight and analysis for free toby lkcl - Fisher
Quoteekaggrat at least make a proper model or a 3d model or do a basic fea analysis to prove the point. please submit a purchase order for the work that you would like carried out and i will be happy to do so. my rates are USD $150 per hour, estimated 20-30 hours to do a reasonable design: we can discuss exactly what level of detail you would like, obviously the higher the level of detail, theby lkcl - Fisher
i got marlin up and running, yes. i didn't test the micro-sd card yet. i was in the middle of doing the reprapfirmware port.by lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteCHBRIGHT83 Really curious how this has been going. Really impressive work so far. hi chbright83, apologies, i had the PCBs manufactured, i have 8 remaining: i went to Shenzhen Maker Faire last year, it was absolutely fantastic but also slightly traumatic at the same time: carrying 50kg of equipment, changing vehicles over 20 times in under 36 hours... oh and didn't sell any or gain any ordeby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
the problem is caused by a design defect in the RAMPS 1.4 PCB layout. it's clearly visible without even needing a magnifying glass. i have documented this flaw on the wiki page and created a video which describes it in more detail if it is not fully understood. the problem NEEDS to be fixed - urgently - in the PCB - and the person responsible for the RAMPS 1.4 repository NEEDS to be told toby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
ok so i got the quote from my friend mike: PCB and component costs for QTY 100 will be around the $15 mark. the TSSOP-8 I2C EEPROM is *expensive* - over $1. if it was possible to fit a SOP-8 in that corner it would be about $0.15. i will also need to do a small redesign: some of the capacitors are 0805 and 50V (70V would be safer, the board's designed to run up to 35V, and i heard a rule thatby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteGiftyakapatch Is it possible to get some naked boards ? or a "kit" ... i really love to solder sometimes..... your project seems to be worth going with it.... thanks Markus from germany yeah i have 8 left from a batch of 10 that i did, i'm back in taiwan again and mostly recovered (14 hour flights, not fun), i'll have to find them as most stuff is packed up. yes there are no fiducials: yoby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
QuotePheneeny So are you planning to sell these shields? If so, any idea on price? yes - i'll need to do it as a crowd-funding exercise, as i'm not too keen on the idea of buying components etc. without knowing that people are actually gonna buy it! which reminds me, i need to ping mike to ask him for the quote on components and assembly for say QTY 100. in large enough volume, the similarityby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteVDX ... found a related (German) Thread about - ... it's real - it really does happen. my favourite one i heard about was a 2.5in IDE drive inside a 3.5in SATA case. i mean... this is a country where they take cement powder, put it into "milk powder" containers and *sell it to their own citizens*, killing some of them in the process. for the most part cement powder *is* actually "harmleby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedatesheet why not you use a Smart Ramps to hach,now you give me another choice update my printers to 32bits. i haven't time to do it myself, but check the video, i go through the process of identifying whether "thermals" are enabled or not on the power / gnd flood-fill / planes. you can do exactly the same thing, for yourself, and will be able to check if there is the same critical designby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 (whereas RAMPS often struggles to provide 10A), .... the extremely dangerous "thermals" design flaw limits the safe (10C rise) current provision in several places - all the main terminals, the fuses, the MOSFETs, the MOSFET terminals (bed, fan, extruder) and many other places all of which are in series - to 6A. back-calculating using 7pcb.com's trace-width calculator which includesby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul Will definitely watch your video, aside from what you are working on right now are there any boards that you could recommend that are currently available? *sigh* the whole reason why i designed RD3D is because the alternative 32-bit boards are either non-free (proprietary, i.e. completely against the principles of the entire reprap movement), criminally GPL violating (most of theseby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteVDX ... here's a sample of slightly better "power+thermal"-design, how I'm using it for my own drivers with up to 20Amps (for more than 10Amps I'm aditionally soldering solid copper wires along the thick tracks): But maybe even bigger of a problem are the cheap terminal pins (there are some designed for 20Amps, but not used for higher costs) ... and too, the bad habit to solder the the wiby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul I'm going to be using an external mosfet like the one below for the heated bed, I've read about some of the power issues but those are only related to the heated bed power draw right? actually... if you use those DRV8825s at max power, they draw up to 2A, if you have 4 of those that is 8A and that is far in excess of the safe amount that the piss-poorly-designed tracks of the Rby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
RAMPS has SPI but it doesn't have the pinouts to connect to the TMC2130s properly. i've been designing a better board (RD3D) which does... but it'll need tweaking the Marlin firmware to do it. please for f***'s sake do not use RAMPS. please read the warning i put on the page. if you absolutely must use RAMPS then UNDER ABSOLUTELY NO CIRCUMSTANCES exceed 6 amps at ANY time. that means you canby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
hi briefly, yes DRV8825s.... chuck them out. serious. look up the fact that you have to put 8 diodes in series per motor in the wires (2 per wire) to... yyyeah... TMC2130s... anything from Trinamic is great... they just run a bit hotter as the extra accuracy in turn requires more power to maintain. if you don't have a controller that can do SPI don't bother with TMC2130 get TMC2100s. bear inby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul Still thinking things through but this is a simple drawing of what I have in mind for keeping the bed pressed against the ball screw, basically a simple spring pinch clamp: it would have to be very strong. you can only do one end like that, though. at least two ends will have to be a different arrangement so as to stop lateral travel. Quote The other option that I can think ofby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul I've got quite a few of the triangles and I ordered 2 brands and have way more than I need, but thanks though. I just feel like the triangles don't do anything to help ensure that the actual extrusions are square and aligned, what have you got? can you send a picture? if you're using flat triangles (50mm x 50mm x e.g. 2mm thick say), then you need 3 per corner to get proper aliby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul Wasn't aware anyone else was doing that type of remote-direct drive setup. yes - jason is a reclusive engineer who does not talk about or promote that which he knows to be technically not up to scratch. it's taken him several years to do the materials research and engineering analysis... and zesty came along and screwed him over, copied the design *without* listening to him, and..by lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul Is that a flexible shaft / direct drive extruder a la zesty nimble? i have a Flex3Drive. for god's sake do not get a zesty nimble. the people who are selling it... great at sales, but they copied jason's design (they... screwed him over in the process), but they "modified" it. they reduced the size of the mesh gear (he told them don't do that, you have to calculate the correctby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
this is what my friend's done with his. he's actually replaced the y belt and rods with a pair of linear rails and a lead screw with an anti-backlash spring-loaded nut. the next experiment he wants to try is a cheap-and-cheerful chinese ball screw on Y, then redesign things on X to replace the belt with a ball screw there as well. also you can see i recommended he get a monster piece of persby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul All I would have to do to remove is is take 2 screws out of where the fan meets the heatsink and unscrew 2 screws from the bottom and it would lift out, if anything it's going to be easier to take off then it is right now. nooo, you have to raise the z-height by at least 50mm, preferably 100mm (which takes quite a long time on a lead screw), then maneuvre your hand and the tool inby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul On this printer I am not going to be changing the hotend, it's already an all metal MK10 hotend (and again not going to be spending more money on this printer, eventually it will just be my secondary printer). The extruder assembly is going to be easy enough to remove as it is (if I need to do any maintenance). The bearing holder area is 50mm the main body is 70mm and things fit peby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul The bearing holding section is actually 50mm long so you could go with 3-4 lM8UUs or 2 lM8LUUs. Right now I have the 2 LM8LUUs that are on my printer and I will probably use those. Idk if I'm going to replace them or not, will probably decide later, I can always order some online if I decide to. I wish those encased IGUs were not so expensive. I would love to have linear rails butby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
looks alright! oh - LM8LUU bearings? those wobble (rock) around quite a bit. i strongly suggest using 4 LM8UUs. widen the carriage a bit so that it won't rock.by lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul As far as the x axis goes I think I'm pretty much done with the basic layout, just a few more things to do: Place endstop Design cooler Place screw holes for leadscrew and z rod. Place screw holes for the x rods. chunkyyyyy i have a style thing of drilling equi-distantly-spaced holes through chunky stuff, to save on plastic. btw with the belts for god's sake make sure you lineby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul Ordered a ball screw for the bed, just happen to find it while browsing banggood: Eventually I do want to build a coreXY, but I will want to design my own parts because when I do build it I kind of want it to be my endgame fdm printer, but before I go and spend that kind of money I want to get my feet wet dealing with this first. Is solid python the same thing as pyopenscad, ifby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames