When I get it all together and figure out the dual extruder settings in the slicer, there will be video! Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Think I have about all the printed parts made. Center section and outer retainer for the second Hotend, the dual extruder extension and idler, and Bowden tube looms - 4 "dog bone" and 3 "C" type, for Bowden tube management. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
When I say the format was open, that means that while it was under a commercial licence, the info was available so others could build import / export tools to interface with their CAD. As far as I know, it has never been open source / FOSS. FreeCAD can not work with those files as to do so would be in violation of their licence.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
SAT file format is used by the ACIS CAD kernel. Once upon a time it was an open format, until Dassault Systemes bought it and promptly closed it. If I'm not mistaken, ACIS is the CAD kernel used by Alibre / Geomagic.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
The hold up will be waiting for the stepper motor to arrive I'm thinking. That and figuring out the settings for dual extrudes... Though I really want to print out that frog so I'v got some motivation there. I could "barrow" one of the motors from my CNC machine, but I'd have to leave it hanging over the edge as it's one of those 47mm high torque jobs with a shaft sticking out of both ends.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
I don't think the weight would make a difference one way or the other. There are two of them no matter which way you mount it. But like Reg says - "We will see, wont we" I think it will work just fine. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
OK, here is my first run at the dual Hotend mount for the Smartrap. Simple, minimal offset between Hotends, (16 mm), and only one part discarded and 2 new parts added. Probably start a print later on today. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
OK, on the subject of the low wattage lasers, I'v also been kicking around the idea of a Smartrap style SLA printer. With the advancement in resins along with lower cost, it might be worth a shot. 50 mw or so blue laser, 150 mm petri dish, lifting Z, PLA printed parts. Would be able to use the cheap 34 mm steppers. Could be interesting. Firmware / RAMPS laser control? Any ideas?by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Good to here your on the mend Mike. Laser engraver or engraver / cutter? (matter of watts). I'v been thinking of one of those my own self but I want an 80 or 120 watt unit - to do more stuff. I also really want to build a Gingery lathe. Figure all the smaller parts could be 3D printed and used as "lost PLA" investment castings. Of course, it would need CNC mods. Oh, and I had myself one of thby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Looks cool... So when you going to try it? You probably have a dual holder for the Smartrap already designed up and your head and your fingers are twitching over your mouse waiting to put those ideas in to FreeCAD... I'll mail you a spare Jhead-Lite thanks to Regpye. Come on... You know you want too... I think I have some spare PTFE tube too... Oh, I have the spare tube for the Boby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Not just 2 colors, so we can print cool stuff like this frog, but being able to use that Water Soluble PVA filament for support.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Right you are Mike, thanks for catching that.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Came across this yesterday - - and it looks very interesting. Anyone want to try a Dual Extruder Smartrap?by markstephen - Smart_Rap
For the steps, we need to know what microstepping you are using the tooth count on the pulley, and the belt type/pitch. For instance, if your using a GT2 belt with a 2mm pitch and 20 tooth pulley with 1/16 microstepping, then your Esteps would be 80 / mm. If your using an XML belt/pulley with a 2.03 pitch, and the rest is the same, your Esteps would be 78.82. A real handy calculator for all thisby markstephen - Smart_Rap
On or about line 401, you will see this in Configuration.h (assuming your using the Marlin firmware from the Smartrap repo.) #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 2.2 That's your Z offset. You can also set this with your LCD controller if you have one. Its in the Control > Motion section.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
The Z does not need speed, and there is "some" resistance in the steppers even when there is no power. I would think that gearing it down, either with a belt/pulley or gears, the reduction would allow the no-power holding torque of the stepper to stop the motor from turning. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
I have a small fan blowing on the top part of my hotend only. Just to make sure the PLA arm and such stay cool. I also have a hald circle duct to keep the fan from blowing on the heat sink and blocking any rising heat. This setup works great for me. From your pix, it does look like the heat is not transferring to the sink. goldenmongoose has good suggestions there, "heat it up to about 255C andby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Can you take a pic or 2 of your j head assembly and post it. It sounds like your getting to much heat in the barrel and it's not sinking the heat properly.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Oh, only came with the Huxley mount. I can see how that would put you at a disadvantage. Humm... OK, check your PMby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza {snip} I see what I'm missing.. The end plate that I have doesn't have that fork to stop the nut. I'll have to see what I can do to make it work and print a replacement. Man I wish I had someone around my area that could hook me up to get started. What I did was to use the regular J-Head mount with the J-Head light to get the new mount printed. (if you have it) Not the best way to mby markstephen - Smart_Rap
No, nothing like that. Heats up rather quickly, stays within a couple degrees of set temp (185 C for me). Did you use the heat sink compound on the resister? I also put it on the thermistor as well. Did you get the ceramic wrapped around and insulating the heatsink from the aluminium block?by markstephen - Smart_Rap
I have - #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 7 The rest I left Smartrap marlin firmware stock.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Shiny, please post back with your findings after your testing.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
If your using "stock" Marlin source, I believe Reg is very correct with what he posted, either way should work, but mixing the 2 won't.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Here is the servoless mount I designed. - It even has FreeCAD files. The ones you want are New_X_End_Mount_Left.stl OR New_X_End_Mount_Right.stl New_jhead_X_Mount_Arm_Left_V01- OR New_jhead_X_Mount_Arm_Right_V01- New_jhead_X_Retainer_30mmFan.stl These fit the Ohio Plastics J Head Light and mount it at the right height. Mark Edit- While the interface may differ from SolidWorks, the paramby markstephen - Smart_Rap
What I posted works for the Smartrap Marlin Firmware found on Github here - i was using this until I got my no servo J Head mount printed out. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
1/16 step should be fine. That's 0.0125 mm per step, or 16 Esteps to make a 0.2 mm (20 micron) layer height. That's not bad. Sure, 1/32 steps would give you more resolution, but is it really needed? Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
If you look as the Smartrap Documentation in the Github repo, you will find this pic - the servo goes at the end where the stops plug in and remember to flip the positive and negative pins around onthe servo connector or it won't work. Then just just the Smartrap Marlin Firmware from the same Github repo for the servo and you should be on your way. The easy way to get the github repo is toby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Well, looks like others posted while I was typing. so yea, what they said.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
That this tube that comes with the J head light is for lining the barrel only. Here is a quick 3D view I did, (in FreeCAD, not to scale). The tube, white, goes through the barrel and is cut flush at both ends. It is only there to allow the PLA to slide thrugh the barrel without sticking to the steel or expanding into the crack between the threaded steel part and the plastic part inside where tby markstephen - Smart_Rap