Wow, that looks like it printed out rather well. Good news for that part at least. But one things just hit me... I didn't make any provisions for the string or belt! Blast my hide! Looks like you will have to drill a hole in that one. What it needs is a recessed hole and a slot for clearance if a tyrap is used for a belt. Making the change now.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 I'm going to try and print it tonight. Thanks Mark Sure thing. Sense I'm new to 3D printers, watch the screw hole diameters and let me know if they need to be adjusted or if I need to add captures for nuts and the like. I currently am thinking that the screws should just thread in to the holes. Maybe start off with the New_jhead_X part first and test the screws in the holes. If theby markstephen - Smart_Rap
I started a new thread for the J-head mount here - - so I can stop hijacking Mike's thread. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
As mentioned in another thread, I have started on the design of a mount for the Ohio Plastics J-head Light. The STL mesh files along with the parametric CAD files (FreeCAD .fcstd format) are now posted on Thingiverse. As noted, these parts have not been printed as I type and are unproven. It is therefor the purpose of this thread to document the development / refinement of the part and to come uby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quoten.glasson Do I have it right that this no-servo design effectively uses the nozzle as the probe? I have seen this concept applied to a Prusa i3 and thought of a few problems with it. If your extruder dribbles when up to temperature, it will leave little blobs on the bed. This is probably not too concerning. It could be avoided by levelling cold but then it is likely that there will be anby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz Mark.. It's just wonderful . I want to test it ? I didn't update on thingiverse on the last version without servo motor because of the j-head version not compatible. This one looks really cool. If it's good can we use it in the main project ? I find silly to design one on my side if you just did.. and in a very great way . the only problem i see is the sources ? You kby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Here are a few screenshots of the Jhead Light - No Servo - X End. Still have a bit more to do before I upload the CAD and .stl files. Kind of a "sneek peek" Its a 3 piece set with the mount, arm and retainer. There is a thin plastic washer (I'm planing to recycle a piece of a milk jug) between the mount and arm. The micro switch mounts on the side with screws and is the same one used in standarby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Later on tonight or tomorrow I should have an X end designed for the Jhead light that removes the servo and mounts the longer Jhead light 20mm higher, restoring the full Z height to the smartrap. I'v gotten the screws (thanks!) and just picked up the glass plate today. So now all I need to do is finish up the wiring the make up a temp mount for the Z switch to reach the plate from the servo so Iby markstephen - Smart_Rap
That's looking great, nice prints. I'd just stick with the wife's camera, it's taking much better pics. Looks like you have the thing dialed in pretty good. Did you end up having to make a lot of adjustment, or just little tweaks?by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Video for tying line - But if your having a lot of trouble with string slipping, might have more to do with bad bearings, misalignment, etc.. Sure enough, the belts will be far less likely to slip, no two ways about that. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotesolarprism Hi, very nice build May I ask which power supply you used for your smartrap, I think they said can be 19V 60W adapter, can I use 12V 5A ? Thank you 12V at 5A is 60W, so it should work as long as your not planing on adding a heated bed. I'm using an old PC power supply and lucked out with it having 12V at 8A, so with 96W, I should have some to spare. P=I*E or Power(watts) = I(by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Noticed that mine was printing mirrored on the Y axis. Wow, that took a while to figure out. Inverting the axis was the easy part, but getting the endstop to function correctly was a pain. Well crash course into Marlin, LOL. I finally got it figured out though. If anyone runs into it I can share my Marlin files. I kind of have a feeling mine is doing the same thing, though I don'tby markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteFleder Does someone know how to cut objects in half in FreeCAD? I can't get it to do this There are several ways to get the part your looking for. KeithSloan gives pretty good advice there. The FreeCAD forum is the best place to get answers for this type of in depth technical question. The forum is set up to accept your your FreeCAD file attachments so you do not need to zip them. When youby markstephen - 3D Design tools
Quotemadmike8 I bought them from Zorotools on ebay. PM me your address, and I'll see if I can mail them to you. BTW good to know about the Jhead-lite. I was planning to use one on my second build. I know I read where someone was using one on theirs on thingiverse... I'll have to search them out and find what they did. Then again, I think the earlier versions of Smartrap had a longer Servo/Probeby markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteFleder QuoteCrewmember You can always get your software by other means. I reccomend Inventor if you are a beginner. It is one of the easiest professional CAD programs to get into. 9.200 € or 120 monthly... Wow, that is a lot of money. I would like to aquire a Serial, because i would like to build some kind of board game i maybe want to sell afterwards. Is there any other beginner friendby markstephen - 3D Design tools
Hi madmike8, It's good to see your having good results with your build. I'm in the process of putting one of these together and have come to a grinding halt trying to source 2 ea - M3 30mm and 3 ea - M4 60mm screws of all things. I can get them special order so long as i buy a box of them. Looks like that is what i will have to end up doing and just have 40 some screws laying around with no use.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
A couple of little problems are coming to mind, though the concept looks interesting. The first thing that comes to mind, looking over your screenshots is the design, the way it is shown, has the magnetic cylinders positioned vertically. This would mean that the steel balls fitting inside the cups would be relying on the magnetic forces from the sides, between the poles where they are weaker, aby markstephen - Delta Machines
FreeCAD, and the #1 reason... It runs on Linux! (and I will not ever give even one rusty penny to micro$oft) The other few solid molders that run on Linux have a UI that just flat out sucks rocks. For designing parts to be printed and all around work at home, I haven't found anything I cant do with FreeCAD. And you really can't beat the price.by markstephen - 3D Design tools
I'v been looking hard at this one my own self and you are correct, I have not found any reference as to what size servo is being used. That begin said, taking a measurement of the slot where the servo is to be placed, it seems that your going to be wanting one of the small sub 5g types. Be careful as they come in several sizes but something like this - or this or this - Your wanting one withby markstephen - Smart_Rap