Great! Thanks for the reassuring info. My geared extruder is here to stayby MelT - Smart_Rap
Quoteregpye Quoteduranza I was trying to keep the bend radius big to reduce friction. So you think I should cut it? No don't cut it, if anything increase the length and keep the curve as slight as possible. Right. This is why I mounted my geared extruder vertically in the first place. This way, there is only one u-shaped bend and not a spiral if the exit is towards either side. The only drawby MelT - Smart_Rap
Aaah... we have the same idea of hitting two birds with one stone. I might have tried it if it was for a j-head. On a separate note, I wonder if Serge will move his stuff from thingiverse to youmagine. You know, after the makerbot was accused of stealing the designs of people.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Good that direct drive is working for you. I wonder how powerful a taller motor is compared to a shorter one. Maybe enough to not need a geared extruder.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Bowden tube support This has helped me get consistent filament flow. Very crude, but I'm going to draw and print something formal soon.. Nice print! Your tube seems too long though. Since your Z rods are not that long anyway, have you though of cutting it a few inches? Anyway, with a geared extruder, it may not matter much.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza I'm going to slice RegPye's extruder one more time with cura and give it a try. Exactly my thoughts. Slic3r to me makes nozzle moves that do not make sense. With Cura, it prints exactly how I would print it if I was a printer I wish it had specific settings for overhang and bridge though. I work around that with the plugin but the setting applies for the whole level and not justby MelT - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Sounds a bit like the issues i had. I now use Reg's geared extruder and hotend and that solved the them. I still have a lot of details to figure out. With some prints the PVA doesnt stik good enough and with others i have to fight for several minutes to get a print loose :-) Now experimenting with a fan to cool the print too. but that changes the game once again I'm happy with theby MelT - Smart_Rap
Here you go... Not sure what you need so I shared my settings when I was using a direct drive and when I'm using the geared extruder. Using the geared extruder, I normally turn up the speed using the LCD controller so that's definitely not the maximum. The maximum speed depends on what I'm printing. If it's printing a big flat area, I was able to turn it up to 130% and still get a good resby MelT - Smart_Rap
Sure. I'll get that for you. Do you need all of it? There's an option to save the settings to a file so I will just upload it. While I get that though, I would sway you away from buying an airtripper extruder. I printed one and it's really not any different than the smartrap's original design. If you're going to buy something make it a geared extruder. I noticed a big difference when I printeby MelT - Smart_Rap
I better find a way to put that sticker somewhere in my machine. Maybe I will 3d print it and put it in the support between the two z-rodsby MelT - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza Ok guys, I'm having problems with the prints being good in the first 2-3 mm and then it starts to be intermittent with the filament flow. Any Ideas? I'll post a picture in a bit A picture would help. Does it maintain the temperature within a couple of degrees? Quotegoldenmongoose 220 seems high for pla. I haven't had any problems with pla at 185. Running pla at high temperaturesby MelT - Smart_Rap
In my experience, I needed to blow air on the print where it is thin and tall and where there is overhang/bridge. Cooling is needed because whenever the nozzle stays in one place for a long time, it melts that part of the print ruining the finish. I gave the example of batman ears because that's what I had problem last. I was wondering why not many people mention cooling. Maybe it also hasby MelT - Smart_Rap
This group is lucky to have you sir, for constantly trying things which not all of us can afford to do. :-) If there's one thing I wish someone tries though, it would be the fixed X rods like the reprap ormerod. Heheby MelT - Smart_Rap
Hmm... I was concerned the fan cooling the hotend, hence the duct. But I should try that too. Thanks.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Don't you care about fan blowing on your prints? I shared this with duranza on this thread but I'm wondering why there's not too many people here caring about fan blowing on their prints. Don't you even have a need? Well, I did and here's what I came up with. I'm redirecting about a third of the fan's airflow toward the print. This is so that I don't have to use two fans (one for cold end,by MelT - Smart_Rap
Yes, reducing the infill density will reduce the amount of plastic to fill the space inside. I print things hollow to save filament when I dont need something to be strong (like action figures as opposed to printer parts). I'm also looking for a good supplier of better quality filament as I'm down to half a spool. . Nevertheless, you should plan on using a fan. I completely got rid of my wby MelT - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza .4 on the nozzle and I'm now printing at 25mm/sec. I'm going to give the extruder another try. Do you use slic3r or cura? I'm trying to get the settings right on slic3r. I also had to level the bed by shimming the plate as I still can't get it to auto level yet. I used slic3r at first because that's what most people seem to prefer. But after trying Cura, I fell in love with the useby MelT - Smart_Rap
Glad you sorted it out. I too, had the slant on X before and just needed to tighten the fishing line. 5 turns on the shaft works for me. What's your nozzle diameter? And at what speeds can you print now?by MelT - Smart_Rap
Quoteregpye That is easy Serge, just use a couple or more of my extruders and do what MeIT did only using the new mounting brackets that I have in "Free Stuff" on my website, instead of a block of wood.. You could bank as many as you want that way. Glad to have made a contribution here.by MelT - Smart_Rap
And when you get a chance, print a geared extruder. You won't regret it. I printed regpye's extruder and it worked wonders in terms of print quality and print speed. But you have to sort out your temperature first. I shared my experience here and hopefully it can help you out a bit.by MelT - Smart_Rap
You might have those PLA that needs higher temperature. Mine only flows well at 230 and above but try increasing your temperature 5 degrees at a time and check the result. Your fan might also be cooling off your hot end. You have to insulate your hot end so that the fan won't cool it down too much. Good luck!by MelT - Smart_Rap
Yup, definitely check those two lines pointed out by regpye. Although for me, the Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS value only works between probings but not after the third probe. I think we have the same case where the probe stays on the glass after the third probe. Can you post your startup gcode settings? Don't worry, there are very helpful people here to help you sort those issues out. Fromby MelT - Smart_Rap
After the third probe, add a line in your startup gcode to raise the nozzle using G1 Z10 to avoid it scraping the glass. What temperature are you printing at? Have you tried printing at higher temperatures? Looks like you need to do a PID auto-tune too.by MelT - Smart_Rap
That's interesting, goldenmongoose. But $500 is far from cheap from where I come from I wonder what can the laser in the CD drive cut. Have you tried it? Please share some more info. I'm thinking of giving it a try.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Do you mean something that will be attached to our smartrap and make it a laser engraver/cutter? That would be awesome! I'll be watching this! Even a low power lasers enough to cut stickers will keep my smartrap busy.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Thanks madmike! I doubted it at first because the reprap documentation says M555 was for another thing and it mentioned M565 as the one for z offset. M555 worked for me! I just can't change the value in the LCD controller though. The Z offset in the LCD controller is somehow limited to 3. I can't go past that value so I'll still be using the startup gcode for small adjustments. Do you haveby MelT - Smart_Rap
In the LCD controller, the menu will change during a print. When you press the dial when on the main screen, you will see Tune > Flow.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Not on Marlin itself but it can be adjusted on your slicer software or it can also be adjusted during a print on the LCD controller. I'll get some screen shots. Slic3r: Cura:by MelT - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza The non servo one. I can't seem to get it to work when I send G29 with the pc. But still the biggest problem I have is the struder stepper still kicks back when trying to print. I have tried to add a bit of oil to the bowden tube and still not any better. I've had that kickback problem for a long time (even when I changed to a geared extruder). I described it here. What fixed it fby MelT - Smart_Rap
And for some reason, changing the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER in the configuration.h never worked for me. I hope it did but what worked for me was the alternative way to deal with Z offset which I find easier. It is by making use of the G92 command in the startup GCODE. G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G29 ;probe bed G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 Z10by MelT - Smart_Rap