QuoteBradStaff That's not the only thing keeping me from printing. I fried my arduino board and am waiting on a replacement voltage regulator. China mail is taking its time. When I fix that I'll have to fix some hotend voltage problems. My question about the servo motors is how does the code know the distance between the endstop and the hotend so that it prints correctly? The regulator on my RAMby MelT - Smart_Rap
@Brad, is the servo the only thing keeping you from printing? In case you need to print something urgently, let me show you how to do bed leveling semi-automatically (even with a broken servo) Here's how my autolevel sequence goes every print while my servo is waiting to be replaced. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8H40fNVSUdI I used the M300 gcode to make my smartrap beep to remind me whenby MelT - Smart_Rap
Whoa! I don't think anyone can beat that. I too, am having problem with bubbles especially with small prints where bubbles cause gaps. It's very humid where I live so I need a way to control the moisture somehow. I was thinking of using my dry box for my camera. It's just a plastic box with rubber gasket like a tupperware or lock&lock big enough to fit 1 spool of filament then filled wby MelT - Smart_Rap
I hope you guys can come back here and share your nozzle diameter. I believe that affects the maximum print speed which were not shared above. I'm asking becaue after trying the geared extruder, I'm still getting kickbacks. I printed Regpye's geared extruder from smartrap's github. After 4 hours of printing, I noticed it was pointing the other way . Not a problem since I plan to mount it extby MelT - Smart_Rap
I'm sure you were so excited to start printing after building your printer but once you have your new fishing line installed, it would really save you a lot of filament in the long run if you do calibration tests. I skipped those calibrations too as I was so excited to see it print but they will turn out much better if you do. For example, experiment with flow rate. I don't know if a defaulby MelT - Smart_Rap
+1 on USB ports. Maybe 1 on each side of the Z rods so I can use 2 LED lights. I'm currently powering my USB gooseneck LED light using a power adapter.by MelT - Smart_Rap
In my case, it's not really the lateral movement but the axial wiggle. I noticed you there was a reinforcement on your arm so I hope this fixes it for me. Thanks a lot for sharing it! I will surely try it after I replace my extruder with yours. I just printed the small gear and the base but it was pointing to the other side Anyway, I have a spare motor so I will probably mount it separatelyby MelT - Smart_Rap
Oh yeah, that looks like it can resist wiggle better since the arm has a wider contact with the x end. It looks a little advanced though and but I should be able to modify it to keep my current Z plate. Then I can probably use a spring from a pen so I can try it out. Is your design open and posted somewhere?by MelT - Smart_Rap
Oh, thanks a lot for sharing that picture and the files gaston! Now I don't have to buy a tap to make a geared extruder and just use my current MK8 drive gear! And I don't have to worry about not being able to find M8 bolts. 1/4 inch bolts should be easy to find here and I can just make minor adjustments to your files. So excited to say goodbye to extruder kickback and under-extrusion.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Of course there's no harm in trying especially if you already have a working 3D printer, but if I had a working servo motor, I would probably stick with it compared to the servo-less version. The reason being that my j-head is more sturdy when it is mounted directly on the X end that connects to the rods. I'm currently using the servo-less version and if I move the ptfe tube, the nozzle tip wiggby MelT - Smart_Rap
No touch auto level? That's a dream! I have the no servo x end but I find that unlike the servo version, my j-head nozzle wiggles a bit as the bowden cable moves around. It will really help with the print quality if the hot end will be fixed more rigidly on the X end. Any chance I can try it out now?by MelT - Smart_Rap
Thanks for sharing Serge. I wish I can get mine to print as fast as that. If only parts can be picked up anywhere like groceries.by MelT - Smart_Rap
Thanks regpye! M12 seems a bit much but I'll take your word for it after seeing pictures of your more than 30 printers! I wish I could make another printer someday. I found your stl from smartrap github. I will try making hobbed bolt with a hand drill when I get a chance to go out again. Off topic - I've just received my invitation to apply for Australian visa. Hope everything goes smoothby MelT - Smart_Rap
Thanks guys! If I can get mine to print even at 30mm/s reliably, I will be very happy. Unfortunately, I'm still getting that kickback on my extruder motor. Worse, I don't see a pattern on when it occurs. Sometimes during infill, and sometimes on perimeters. At times, it happens a few times in a row with only seconds in between and sometimes, just once every few minutes. I dialed down my flowby MelT - Smart_Rap
I'm just curious how fast can your smartrap print? I know this will vary a lot based on a number of factors but I just want to compare if my print speed is normal. I got my stepper motors from robotdig and it measures about 39 mm in height excluding the shaft. It seems short compared to what I see in your builds. I print at 20mm/s external perimeter and 30mm/s infill. What I notice is that theby MelT - Smart_Rap
I hear you. I've also had a lot of frustrations with my build (broken stepper driver, arduino regulator, motor twitching, etc.) But a little bit more tinkering saved me some from buying new parts. When I had problems with my motors and ran out of options, I just uploaded the RAMPS1.4 test code. Just make sure to disconnect fishing lines and z coupling. This test code will spin your motors baby MelT - Smart_Rap
Thanks for the M555 tip but since my smartrap is not tethered to my PC, the screw method is my friend I agree that change is constant so our smartrap will never be finished because I'm pretty sure that we will always find a way to improve or customize it. Print! Print! Print! Hahahaby MelT - Smart_Rap
Oh. That explains why there is a hole in the arm, too. Well, it's a happy accident then.by MelT - Smart_Rap
If you are still looking for some sample prints, here's one and there are a few more here This is printed hollow at 50% scale. Please note that the print quality I'm getting can still improve as I am still tuning my printer and experimenting with things. I am suspecting my filament is not of good quality which contributes to poor prints, too. But sorry, I haven't tried printing a cellphone caseby MelT - Smart_Rap
Wow! Why haven't I seen this forum before? I could have gotten help and ideas while I was building my poor man's smartrap. Please check it out here. My smartrap won't win any beauty pageant but it prints! Anyway, I just want to share this little piece of information especially to those having a hard time fine tuning their z offset. I'm not sure if the hole on the arm stopper was meant forby MelT - Smart_Rap