Yeah I have coated the rods pretty well with silicone spray, it seems to work the best, they just need to break in more, and be aligned properly. The belt tension is killing me with the dual head mount, just not solid enough with the hole in the back to allow for airflow.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Actually compared to my last printer...a walk in the park. Key points to watch for.... Space Y rods evenly to each other not the box Make Sure Motor shafts/pulley combos are long enough to keep belts aligned If you can use something to decouple motors from the box itself, like some cork gasket material between the two( vibrations get quite loud) If you use a front crossmember on the box like Iby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Easier to watch....don't mind my stupid voice, still getting used to doing videos on you tubeby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Well there are two ways to do it, either in your EPROM settings or in the firmware itself. What you are looking for is steps, in the firmware it will be under configuration.h. if you use Repetier host you can go to config - eeprom settings and modify your steps there.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
If you have settings for 1/16 steps, you can just half the value to get 1/8 steps. Good Luckby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Only because I just came across this myself, I will revive a dead post. If you haven't already figured it out you can set a print area in Repetier-host under printer settings, not only can you set a print area but you can set where that print bed begins. I wont stop the firmware from printing off the glass but should help with your slicing making it a bit more difficult to cause that behavior.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Well its printing, its messy, and way out of calibration. For some reason movements are nice and clean but slows way down when printing. I am thinking it is a artifact of 1/32 mcirostepping and the arduino. Can't seem to find much info on setting the Microstepping to 1/16 with theese drivers, some info says pull 2 jumpers which I tried stepping was way off. So if anyone has some insight toby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Printed parts for the $30 3d scanner to give that a try, but tonight I started printing parts for the Smartrap Core for my laser project. No Z axis. I'll start a new thread for it. But I'll be watching for hints and solutions on your build. Nice let me know how that scanner works, was thinking of giving it a go. Really want to see your laser build, you know what hardware your goingby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Little gloomy out today so here I sit passing time by working on my dual hotend mount, I know I said i would get it in jscad but I can barely manage working it in openscad, but if anyone wants to take a go at it, feel free the file can be found on my github fork Also please any thoughts on this would be appreciated, I have yet to print this out.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Oh and I used the jscad from youmagine to render partsby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
The slide that holds the 608 fit fine, the x slide that holds the head were undersized for me, as well as the z slide, thought it might be my printer but maybe not. Going to use pla bushings undersized in their placeby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
A little closer everyday might be printing by next weekend....by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Thanks Serge, that upper support was just screaming for a badge I know I mentioned it before but here is that relay board I was talking about....And afer a bit of reading on the schematic and documentation the relays are tripped on 5v so the ramps board can run this no problem, it has its own 12v input, Pretty sure I will add some part cooling and custom lighting, was planning on using rgb leby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Yeah Mike I am not happy with an additional side either but think it can definately use some work, myself I also would like to switch to lead screw driven but I am torn, we will see how the belt goes, if it works for Serge it can't be all bad right? Got a few steps closer too...paint could be better but I went cheap and lazy no sanding lol Bracket on the right will be how I mount my Wades, willby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
QuoteCptanPanic Any ideas on the mods to make this an heated enclosure? Shouldnt be that difficult, lexan door on the front and an additional box on top to allow room for bowden tube(unless you plan on running direct drive, then would just need a way to get filament into the box, Add your heater and controller of choice and you shoudl be golden.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quotewillera yeah the reason why I chose this for my first printer was for the elegant simplicity of the design. Cant wait to see yours up and running Djinn! And I can see what upgrades I would like to it aswel. I think trying a dual extruder, with also that redesigned z axis bed support that i saw someone posted on thingverse, to have it supported at two ends rather than just the one. Is it posby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Nice build man, how do you like that aluminum bed? Was thinking about going that route on the core to save weight.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
You guys are probably right, I am sure there will be more, but more will be additional, And most likely a delta, I will have done everything else so why not but I guess I was mostly refering to this "rebuild" being a final version if that makes sense, My current printer started as a Smartrap harvested parts from that to build my current Mix G1/Prusa i3 cross and now the SmartrapCore. Look fby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quotewillera Hi all! I have just ordered all my bits for this printer and can't wait till they all come! Just a quick question, how did you guys know how many bolts and screws etc to use for this build? Did yo work it out or is there a file somewhere? And I ordered some parts from the smartfriendz website using the parts included in a pack as a BOM for the build. I've ordered 4 608zz and 12by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
I hadn't even thought of the shelf paper, glad you are here to keep me on the ground mike lol, Yeah I have 7 tanks all in all it gets to be kind of a pain in the behind having so many, and almost all are planted tanks which just makes it all the more time consuming, but well worth the effort, I can watch my 55g in my front room all day long. I must confess....bought the wood today to make the fby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
And we have a frame, 489 x 372 x 340, time to decide on some colors. I'm kind of leaning towards white interior, maybe purple ext to match my purple parts...hmmm More then anything just want to seal the wood so I don't get a bunch of swelling in my humid house, you be amazed how much humidity is brought around by 200 gallons worth of fish tanks lolby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Nice work, I made a similar mod on my wades to have the bowden all the way up at the hobbed bolt as well, works soo much better on all types of filaments. Just modified my brand new hotend(well the push fitting) to allow the bowden to extend into the metal body, there was about a 2-3mm air gap from the fitting to the smaller hole inside. I might just take it all the way and bore the heatsink toby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Meh, tought myself openscad what's a lil java too lol, ill redo itby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
I didn't see just the hot end mount in the openscad folder, I'll have to look again. Yes it's compatible with the current head design just wider then the single. Very interested in adding an engraver to this, ya know one could use the second hot end space to hold a diode, or even slip it around behind between the heads for an all in one machine. Had to get the gears turning didn't you? I thinkby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quotecristian Quotedjinn5150 My estimate is +/- 200 microns Many thanks. Am I wrong or it is +/- 20 microns (instead of 200) ? 200 is bad (about as much as the average layer height), on the other hand 20 microns is definitely more than acceptable. No you are right, only first cup of coffee as I was running that and posting results, saw .2 instead of .02 smh, back to the brewpotby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Serge, I have almost got the dual end completed in openscad Thanks for giving me the motivation to figure it out finally, I never realized how simple it is. As it sits now the code is pretty messy and static, I will be working on cleaning it up this afternoon and going parametric to allow the end user to choose between fan size, sensor size, and hot-end mount size. I am also trying to find aby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quotecristian Quotedjinn5150 unfortunately I have no dial gauge and I have yet to run any repeated probes to check for variances. When you manage to run the probes, if you post the results I will be very thankful. Ask and ye shall recieve My estimate is +/- 200 microns but considering its only sensing aluminum foil it might be more accurate with and aluminum build plate. Might also have someby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quotecristian What is the precision of these sensors in microns? Honestly I have no clue at this point, they are intended to trip at 8mm on thicker metal then what we are using, unfortunately I have no dial gauge and I have yet to run any repeated probes to check for variances. Data sheets for these are pretty much non existent, at least that I can find.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
QuoteCptanPanic Can you post link to inductive sensor you got? Got it off amazon but that model is availabe on ebay as well Serge, Unfortunately I modeled that up in Inventor, but fortunately I want to learn openscad soooo.... I will see what I can come up with, time to learn lol, pretty simple part so shouldnt be too hard. For what its worth that is using 30mm fan's not 40's to save space, aby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Ok so if it's not chewing and filament works on your delta at 180 I am guessing the temp is a factor, Is it possible to compare room temp readings on the hotend between the two? My first guess is temps are not being reported correctly but that is assuming a lot on my part, Did you calibrate your stepper driver pot to adjust current to the motor properly? Another thought is checking the accelleby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap