Thanks, will try that one. Weird, it was working before my print bed went all whacky.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I re calibrated my Z offset and stored it in the EEPROM using the M500 command in PronterFace. The M501 command confirms the Z offset. However, when I print from the SD card, the offset value is completely ignored because the print quality for the first layer is awful. I do have the EEPROM enabled in the configuration.h file: #define useEEPROM #define EEPROM_SETTINGS #define EEPROMby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I have built the box and am in the process of printing the parts. So far so good :-)by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I printed out the top Z plate that holds the 608zz bearing in place and noticed that the slot for the bearing is not centered on the piece. Anyone else notice this? Any reason why it would be off centered? Duh, I found the answer by looking at the CAD drawing. It's off centered so that the left side of the belt lines up with the little belt holders on the printed bed support slide.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Got it, that makes sense. Thanks for all the help!by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks. I was thinking I could just mount a digital timer to the box, start the print job and then start the timer. Probably not very accurate but cheap and provides a visual estimate as to at least how much time "may" be left in printing.. Found this one on ebay.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I believe I only have X and Y as options, but I'll check, thanks.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Via Marlin, on my LCD, I can move the X and Y axis but sometimes I want to move the Z axis up so I can clean up the hotend nozzle. Can this feature be added to the firmware or can it be done via switch?by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I know there is a way to have the total print time displayed on the LCD when the print starts. Is there a way to display the print time left as it prints, like a countdown?by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I found this modified extruder for the SmartRapCore in Thingiverse listed under SmartRap. I don't know if it works but looks like it will, especially with the added nut holes.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I found this modified extruder for the SmartRapCore in Thingiverse listed under SmartRap. I don't know if it works but looks like it will, especially with the added nut holes.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Wow, that looks great. I wish I could do that :-(by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Check out this video starting about 01:45 into the video. Shows a 3D printer printing chocolate but the really neat part is that the entire hot end assembly is held in with magnets like you want to do.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I started building mine as well. Sounds like a smartrapcore party!by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I modified the configuration.h file for easier reading like I had with the SmartRap. I am sure that I will be making more changes to it as I build my own core.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Yup, already did that, very cool feature :-) Was just checking out the github for the firmware and noticed the discrepancy in the STL.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I was looking at the individual STL files in GitHub and noticed that the XY motor bracket labeled as the "left" is actually the one that goes on the right side as you face the printer. Is there a mistake in Github or is the printer setup that way where left/right is reversed?by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks for the info. I was thinking of using 2020 extruded aluminum for the box instead of solid sheets of 3/4" MDF. I found a few designs on thingiverse for corner brackets, etc. 1 meter of 2020 extruded aluminum: 3D printed bracketsby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
That hot end works great so far. As a test, I tried printing a small part at 80ms with a 90ms feed rate for PLA and it came out pretty good. Just some minor defects. I normally print at 20ms, slow but parts come out beautiful. Nice work on the beefed up Z axis parts. How are you attaching the M8 threaded rod to the motor shaft being that the diameters are different? I was thinking of duplby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Yes, i saw the options on OpenJSCad.org. That is a really cool way of custom printing the parts.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I am thinking of converting my SmartRap into the CoreXY. I see that there is a belt being utilized for the Z axis. Has this been reliable so far or would a threaded rod be better? How is the printed bed being held down to the part on the Z axis that moves up and down? Are there any reinforcements, such as protruding rods that support the weight? I suspect that the front of the printed bedby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I got a cheap $10.00 all metal hot end, containing an an inner PTFE tube, from AliExpress. I made some minor changes to it following Bruno M.'s video on YouTube and it has worked beautifully so far. Here are the details if you are interested:by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
If you are not using a heated bed, you can use a 12V 6A laptop style power supply. That's what I use. On that hotend, make sure you place a fan across those heat sink fins that is always on or else you are going to get pla jams/clogs.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Ramps 1.4 with Arduino Mega. . I am using the DRV8825 drivers and could not get 1/32 stepping to work so I ended up using 1/16th stepping for the X, Y, Z and 1/8 for Extruder. They work just fine so no reason to get one of the other more expensive boards.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi Serge, yes please do! Thanks for the compliment!by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I like that the PTFE tube goes all the way through with a cutout to expose the filament to the driver gear. Very clever!by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
No need for the fancy math, I have the steps in my guide.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap