My blog has a calibration guide that you can use to calibrate the Steps per mm on all axis and the extruder. This is a crucial step as it determines how fast/slow the SmartRap moves. You do not need to print a calibration cube. As mentioned in the guide, use the Prusa Calculator. If you have DRV8825 stepper drivers with all of the jumpers on, then you are using 1/32 stepping which is not rby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
On the sd card you only need the gcode file generated by the slicer software you are using to manage the stl files.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
That is awesome!by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi Reg: How is the 1mm space between the heater block and the nozzle used to seal the nozzle? I removed the nozzle to clean off some of the dried PLA it had on the side and when I hand tighten it back on, I can screw it all the way up to the heater block. Am I supposed to or just leave it 1 full turn away? Doesn't that leave a gap inside the nozzle between the screw tip and the nozzle body?by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks for the advice and STL file! Will let you know what I come up with.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi Reg. Glad to hear you are nice and dry :-) I would like to mount a 40mm fan in front of finned heat sink and groove nut. At 210c the upper portion of the hot end is getting heat from below, I assume, and the heat is wapring the PLA mount. I am working on getting an ABS mount printed. Can you recommend any fan mounts that would fit the Genie MK2? I have a dremel so if i need to make adjusby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks for the info, Reg. It's really, really appreciated. I will check the temp while the fan is running during a print job. Right now, it's set to auto so it comes on after the first layer. I do have Kapton tape on it. By the way, what do you have your PLA feed rate per minute set at? I hope all is well in Australia. I heard about the flooding in Queensland. Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Currently on my SmartRap, I have the feed rate set to 90 mm per min using a Bowden Extruder. I tested out the Genie MK2 I received from Reg (thanks Reg) by manually feeding black PLA through it at 210C and got a nice string of PLA. I had that setting with the Jhead from MakerFarm and it clogged on me on three separate occasions but the temps where higher at 230C because I could only melt the PLby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I will try it 210C - 217C, thanks. I was wondering if any hotend being too hot will cause a clogging issue as well. Now, this perhaps is not due to the breakdown of the PTFE inner tube or the PEEK insulator but that at those high temps, the PLA is OK only while its flowing through the hotend. When it cools down from such a high temp, it cools down somewhat differently and causes the clogs?by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Got the hotend on Friday, thanks Reg! She's a beauty and fits inside the Jhead mount from SmartFriendz with only a little trimming around the ledge that supports the arm. My cheap eBay PLA requires a high temp to melt, > 200c. What's the max temp that can be used with the Genie MK2? I can set them temp manually around 215 and feed PLA through it manually and it will start to extrude but Iby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Here is a video of my SmartRap printing a 10 degree motor mount for my ZMR quad frame.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks for the tip Reg. I patiently await your nozzle which is the mail somewhere between Austrailia and Texas :-) Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi Mike: Go right ahead and use it. Glad I could help! Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Better pictures attached. The print quality is decent and I expect even better results with the Genie MK2. Video of printing coming very soon! Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks. Yes, the lighting in my studio sucks and my halogen work lamp burnt out :-( Will take better pictures as soon as I get the lighting issue worked out.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Attached are the pics of my final build. My original build had too much play and not enough support for the Z axis. My goals were to: 1. Remove as much play as possible using better/newer bearings. I purchased new bearings from sidewiderinc on Ebay and wow, what a difference. Bearings have no bind at all and run smoothly. 2. Go with a taller Z axis For the Z axis, I went with a new 36" 8mmby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
My J head from Maker Farm was severely clogged so I read up on this forum and elsewhere that Acetone is good for ABS but not PLA. I tried using some Methylene Chloride, which is the major chemical in the Ace Hardware's brush and roller cleaner but it not soften the PLA enough. Further reading and MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) has been tested to work but the stuff is really bad for you. What isn'tby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
My current filament melts at 230c which is very high and eventually the hotend clogs ant it's a JHead MKII from MakerFarm so no chinese clone.. I got some MEK from home depot and that melted the PLA to a black glob that I could remove. I ordered a Genie MK2 from reg so am looking forward to using it.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
PLA will stick very well into an unheated piece of glass if you lay down a good first layer. Elmer's purple glue stick also works really well but the final print can be a little hard to get off.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Very detailed. I just ordered an MK2 and look forward to using it.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks to Fabrice I was able to get a really good quality print. I switched over to the latest version of Cura, V15.0.1. and used his configuration settings. The only items I changed where the print speed to 20 mm/s, the infill to 40%, the support area to build plate and added a skirt of 5 lines 3 mm away from the print. Merci Fabrice !!!!!! Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I am printing at 0.2mm sorry it was the wrong setting in the screenshot. I am using the curaengine within repetier host. The arduino has marlin loaded onto it. Fabrice what do you mean by gap? Fabrice, may I PM you a couple of quesions I have in general and about the FabRap V3? Thanks Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
This part is the 40mm glass support for the SmartRap from SmartFriendz. The first picture shows the bottom layer which came out really nice. The second picture is the top layer and that is the one I am having an issue with. The part was printed directly from an SD card via the LCD attached to the SmartRap.. A portion of the top layer shows the infill grid while another portion shows linesby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Updated: Add the following command to the // AUTO BED LEVELING USING A GRID PATTERN: section to enable the auto bed leveling. I forgot to add it oops :-) #define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING Add the following command to the // CONSTRAINTS NOT USED BUT STILL REFERENCED: section to add variables not used but refenced for bed leveling #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 0.3 // #dby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
After changing all axis to 1/16 stepping and changing the steps per mm, I still had issues printing. I checked the Vref on the DRV8825 trim pots and they were set to over 1.5V! No wonder the motors were stopping! I used the formulas from the RepRap Wiki (http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board) and was able to adjust the X, Y and Z Vref values to 0.60V which produced an ideal motorby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Not a problem, thanks. What did you add so that I can update it? Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I have attached my modified version of the Configuration.h file which I was able to compile successfuly in Arduino :-). The purpose of this file was to make it easier for me to read and understand the statements while at the same time getting rid of all the commented out statements I did not need or would not use. With the file as is there is no need to change any other files. THIS FILE IS PROby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I am working on doing that now with the config.h file but am getting compile errors. Once i have it all figured out I will post it here.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap