Which version would be best to use on the SmartRap? Smartfriendz Github: Marlin Github a.k.a. Erik Zalm: Version posted by Regpye: or are they all the same? Thanks, Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Are some of the ifdef/endif - ifndef/endif statements in the Marlin firmware really needed? For example, I know that my motherboard is defined somewhere and that I am going to set it as 33. I develop software in VB .NET and I know that if something is there, I really don't need an If Then statement. But this is kind of like C## which freaks me out :-) Instead of: #ifndef MOTHERBOARD #definby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Funny, but I watched Tom Sanladere's video on drivers and stepper motors and he warned about 1/32 steps being too much for the 8 bit Arudino processor. I didn't listen :-)by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I suspected that the motors might be doing something like that, thanks. No heated bed so i guess my DRV8255's are geting to hot. I have the steps per mm configured for 1/32 and have all the jumpers in place. May be I will try both adjusting the drivers and changing the config to 1/16. Know of any good reference material/site with info on how to adjust the drivers? Thanks for the info. Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I do not know what version parts you have but on the 4.9.2 there are 2 holes in the y mounting plates that can be used with M4 x 60mm screws to hold down the smartrap to the base, such as wood, mdf, etc.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
About 2 minutes into a print the smartrap just stops and the lcd turns off then comes back on. The fans connected next to the hotend heater wires stop as well so i am thinking there is a thermal shutdown? And this is reallly weird. While the smartrap is off, if i move the x or y axis back and forth quicly the lcd blinks. Power feedback from one of the motors is powering up the ramps? I had tby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I buillt my SmartRap with longer rods for all axis and ended up with a 9.125" x 9.125" x 5.5" or 231.775mm x 231.775mm x 139.7mm print area. When I home all axis, the nozzle of the jhead ends up right at the edge of the glass and of course it cannot start a print there. In Marlin, I believe I can set the print area size here: // Travel limits after homing #define X_MAX_POS 200 #define X_MIN_POby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
The JHead I purchased from MakerFarm appears to be an MK II and does not support a Bowden tube coupling and the JHead mount from github does not have a fan support so I made these changes and they seem to work ok, so far.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I made a couple of simple chamges in the way I put the Bowden extruder together to make it simpler.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I have lots of pvc pipe and connectors around so I made this up really quick. You can make it any size you want for any size reel.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
For anyone that needs it, I have attached the little bushing/collar that is used to hold the bearing for the glass suport. I exctrated the part from the smartrap_plates_1.stl file using NetFabb as that little part did not have its own STL file.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks Reg. I will let you know. I got some of the kinks worked out somehow.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I can't bear the cheap chinese bearings anymore!!!! They are fine on the rods and then once you install them on the plates, they get this attitude, grind, halt, stop, we are not going anywhere! I don't want to order more from China. Looking at alternatives I got the diea to remove the balls :-) from insde one of the bearings which produces great results but also results in some play. If I comby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi: I just put together the 4.9.2 version of the X plate and noticed that after I inserted the Z axis (8mm) rods without them being connected to the base, the rods are going in at an angle. When looked at vertically, the gap between the two 8mm roids is narrower at the bottom than the top. I believe this is being caused by the 6mm bearings. When inserted into their grooves on the plate, theyby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
For switch enabled bed leveling, the proper STL files are located on thingiverse however they are for the huxley and jhead lite. If you have a standard jhead or a jhead MK5 model, you can try this one . It supports switch bed leveling and may fit the standard jhead.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I purchased my 8mm and 6mm rods at McMaster Carr for between $4.50 and $6.00 each. Robotdigg has both bearing sizes reasonably priced as well. I was able to cut the rods using a hacksaw and a wooden jig making the cuts nice and even. Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
This is my first 3D printer and like my rc related videos, I plan on sharing what I learned on my youtube channel, rcjoseb. I am up to 14 videos (not published yet) so far and I have not even started building it yet! I created a blog to keep everything in one place, including diagrams, manuals, parts lists, videos, etc. The blog is at Thanks to everyone here so far for the info they have proby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I believe the STL files on the smartfriendz thingiverse page (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:177256) accomodate 8mm rods and bearings as stated in the bill of material. MakerCoast printed parts for me that encompass both 8MM and 6MM rods, which I believe makes the printer revision 0.4.9.2. From what I have been told, earlier versions, i.e. 4.6 use all 8MM rods and bearings.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks. I guess I will have to look at it sideways :-)by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Is the print bed the X axis or Y axis. A couple of posts have mentioned mirroring when printing and/or the original smartrap was viewed/oriented rom the side so the printbed is the Y and the rods moving the print head the X.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Thanks for the info. It can be really confusing as there are so many changes and variations.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Does the 4.9.2 revision utilize the non pcb mounted switches or the pcb mounted ones or can it do both? Are the STL files for the pcb mounted holders on github or thingiverse? Thanks Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Yes mine is sold for LED use and uses a laptop brick style. Works great on the 5A connection. Joseby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Yes, my bad. i meant DC. Thanks for the info.by rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi. I have a 12V 6A a/c adapter that I plan on using with my smartrap, which will not be utilizing a heated bed. Should I connect the a/c adapter wires to the 5A connection or 11A connection on the ramps? Thanks, rcjoseBby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
I ended up going with a genuine Jhead for that reason. Thanks, rcjosebby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap
Hi: I am looking to build my first smartrap 4.9.2 and am looking for a good source for a j-head without spending a fortune. I am aware that makerfarm sells what appears to be a decent one but it's about $65.00 US for the complete kit. Does anyone have experience with sidewinderinc's hotend that sells on ebay? I will be only printing 1.75mm PLA projects. He's sold 201 of them so I assume itby rcjoseb - Smart_Rap