Michael, sorry I missed your first post. I had some issues with my own inductive sensor too. I discussed what I found here postby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Let's try and bump up the popularity of smartcore alu with as many thingiverse likes as possible. Onshape is pretty easy to learn from my recent experience. Definitely lured me away from sketchup!by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Look on the right hand side of the screen. There are 3 slider bars for x,y,z axes which you can use to position a cut. Then click on "execute cut" and then adjust if needed with the + - buttons. Then confirm by clicking the "cut" button in the bottom right. You should be able to right click to select each half of the cut. Just keep going this way until you have separate parts. Then select the oneby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
It's better, in my opinion, to copy the openjscad code into openjscad.org and then select the 32 bit resolution and printed parts plate, then click update. Click the export stl button and download once rendered. Then you can use netfabb to cut the parts plate into manageable chunks (using the export feature). Please say if you want me to go in to more detail on any stage.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
@madmike8, yours look great - are they bronze bushings? I went with the exact items that Yiannis linked to in his earlier post so was hopeful for an instant fit. @Mandrav, thanks for the offer but I can't possibly ask you to do it again just for me. I was after a short cut but will give it a try myself (not super confident in openjscad yet). Will post on my build thread if I make progress. Caby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Yiannis, please could you point to the lines in the code you edited to make the head accept the bushings and describe if you went for interference fit between bushing and head hole etc? Thank youby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
@jjazzyj - Yes, I saw your thread - looks good. I have plenty of MDF cut to the right size square panels (need to cut out centres) and, despite all the pictorial evidence to the contrary, I just don't trust the rigidity of the alu frames which are only attached at the corners. 8mm oil-less bushings arrived today so might start printing parts this weekend.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Sounds feasible to me - you might want to look for a pretty close ratio (I have seen 4:1). I've ben thinking about mounting the double z axis threaded rods outside the box as I'm planning on cutting out the centre of each box face. My current smartcore is really noisy. Looking to use the bushings that mandrav used to reduce noise too.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I'm going to go for the sides. Might have to get a bit clever about avoiding the y rods. I presume if you haven't cut the wood for your box yet you could account for this in the box design.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I'm about to print my second smartcore and I'm going to move to a double z screw. My first one had a M8 threaded rod and I quickly developed z ribbing. I changed it for a proper stainless steel lead screw and brass nut - much better. Mandrav says that the second lead screw made a big difference to his prints and I can see some slight vibration in my build plate during fast print head moves so eitby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Quotemandrav In my case I need the 2nd Z axis because with a single one the bed is not stable enough for me. I believe it needs a better Z carriage but it was easier for me to just add a second motor that I had lying around I reused the rods as they were. No sanding/polishing. I can measure dimensions with calipers but it will have to wait for the weekend because I 'm on a deadline at work andby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
QuoteMichaelBrock Mandrav, have the two separate z-axis motors been working well for you? It is my plan to add a second z-axis carriage and saw some discussion that running two separate motors makes it difficult to keep them in sync. Michael @MichaelBrock, RAMPS 1.4 has two connections to the z axis driver so each stepper would receive the same power and commands. I can only imagine that thby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
@Mandrav please could you give us an update on your printer? I'm especially interested in the performance and longevity of the bushings and whether you are still recommending two z axis drives. What were the issues you think the second z drive helped with? I'm about to build a new smartcore and want to reduce noise (by cutting out the middle portion of each box panel) and improve quality - speby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Try plugging the Y axis stepper in the other way around - worked for me.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Use the Load button in repetier to open a .stl file. Then use the big slicer button (after researching some suitable settings for your filament and non-heated bed - also think about start and end g-code you might want to manually add to, say, lift the print head a little once you've finished) to turn this into g-code, the instructions for the printer to travel around squirting melted plastic outby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I'm using the smartcore V1 with an E3D Lite6 and my first parts for the smartcore were from my (pretty poor) Q3D 2up in clear PLA. For the recent foray into ABS printing I made a makeshift shroud/hood from 2-3mm packing foam you get on a roll. I have been fortunate enough to avoid warping and splitting even with bed down at 60C and extruding at 240C. Obviously the form makes a difference so I canby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
@3DFreezeMe Thank you - only just made the move to ABS and I've always used slic3r so that will be something new for me to get to grips with. What printer are you printing this V1.2 on?by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Recent upgrades: 8mm lead screw stainless steel and brass nut ( no Z ribbing now). ABS printing (hairspray, glue stick, 5-10mm brims, 60C bed and 240C hotend) - I must say the bridging ability and strength is impressive. Fumes are minimal - I've made a packing foam sheet hood to ward off delamination. Mk8 extruder gear - awesome! Unfortunately not compatible with the stock smartcore extruderby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
@mike3 would you mind showing the layers (pictures like 3DFreezeMe) and posting your slicer settings from RH /Cura? Would be really interested to see the support structure generated.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I think I'd have to agree that the orientation is best how you have it pictured. I'm stuck in a hotel with only my phone at the moment but given that these two parts are not going to change with box wall thickness or print volume (there will be 6mm and 8mm x axis rod versions), would someone be able to add support to the actual design, so that you don't need to rely on the foibles of your particuby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I tried the smartrap one and didn't like it - not enough give in it to apply even pressure (had a slightly off-centred Mk7 gear). Got this one now - chose it because it uses minimum material and hardware. I use a Mk8 gear now and motor has completely stopped missing steps. I use a spring and slighly longer tensioning bolt to accommodate it, unlike the photo on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverseby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I'm sure it's possible to design the x rod clamps in a more printable way but I don't have the skills to model what I'm thinking. Slot orientated vertically?by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
You're right, that's why I asked the question, however I'd be interested to hear if you suffer any strength issues with the layers oriented the way you have them. I'd be worried about delamination as you try and tighten the LM8UU clamp.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
@3DFreezeMe please let me know how you print the V1.2 Y axis bearing holders which also hold the X axis rods.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I haven't had a response about the 1.4 but there is support for these printers - I've had replies from Serge before and you'll see him on these forums. I have a 1.01 (I think) printing really well compared to my first QUBD two up. Just reprinted parts for it and have made the leap to ABS. For info, I used the openjscad printer plate and had 18mm mdf and 8mm dia rods all round.by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I'd go for netfab then. There's a 10 second delay before it let's you open the free version unless you register. I tried registering but the delay is still there. The cut function is on the tools to the right of the screen. I'm sure there are tutorials out there but the key bit after pressing cut and then execute cut is to find the cut part you're interested in on the text description in the topby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I remember V1.2 being announced but can't remember which post. Perhaps search Serge's posts (smartfriendz). I'd play it safe with the older version if you don't already have a printer. I'm afraid I don't speak French at all well and google translate only takes things so far, so I don't really know whether it's a better level of support. Someone started a smartcore facebook group which I haven't jby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
Some people use Cura to divide stl plates. I use the cut function in netfab which lets you save the sections you cut the plate into as stls. Is that what you're struggling with?by smerrett79 - Smart_Rap
I know there are comments on the Youmagine page and a French forum on smartfriendz.com but I have a question about V1.2 and thought it might be useful to collect comments/issues in one thread. My own first question is how to print the Y axis bearing holders which also hold the X axis rods. There's a split in the rod holding holes and I can't see how you can successfully print the part in any orby smerrett79 - Smart_Rap