QuoteKoko76 Wire cutter can do all that and more. I have also used the wire to cut a kerf concentric with the bore, entering with a radial line. The concentric cut is maybe .05" (maybe 1.5mm max) from the bore, and might cover 40 degrees of the circle. You then use a set screw to press the "flap" against the part in the bore. I've also done opposing sets of these. Nice tight fit, and non marby realthor - General
With the solution i imagine (the one in the pic above), the threaded barrel would actually be an advantage. It would go like this: - first fasten the barrel into the heater block pretty well, - then start screwing it into the heatsink (nut is already there on barrel, waiting to be used). - (The first hotend is already in place, with everything fastened). - Now all you have to do is rotate tby realthor - General
But even with such a block, ca you be sure that the two heater blocks and the nozzles end up at the same height? What micro-adjustment mechanism is there to be simple enough to implement? Edit: to me the simplest way to microadjust the level is to leave the heat-break threaded barrel sticking out of the heatsink a bit more than usual and have a nut on it to fasten it against the heatsink when leby realthor - General
Quotedc42 The long aluminium part connects the cold ends of both nozzles/heatbreaks to the heatsink. The nozzles have independent heater blocks. Yes I have noticed, meant to edit my post but got caught in other stuff .by realthor - General
There has been so many threads about fishing line that one whole week of reading only on reprap forums won't be enough. It comes down to the same old discussions. I have found a major showstopper for spectra the drive itself. The line is walking up and down a spool and unless you tackle in the firmware the trigonometry to calculate the steps/mm each time the angle changes slightly you will neveby realthor - General
Quoterealthor Besides having a tilting system, isn't it a good way to ensure both heatingblocks are at the same level by having them connected to a common plate and have no worry with microadjustments each individual hotend? Question: why there are long aluminum parts (@dc42: like in your blog) that are common to the two hotends? Isn't the heat from one of them bleeding into the other heater blby realthor - General
Quotedc42 - You really do need to design in a way of fine-adjusting the two nozzles to be at the same height. [...] Reduce this effect by having the nozzles not too close together. A print cooling fan would probably help (my Ormerod doesn't have one). Being able to remove one of the nozzles or tilt it out of the way for single-nozzle printing would be a bonus. I am in the design stages at theby realthor - General
Quoteipcalit The Nscrypt above seems to be using a worm and DC motor. Initial Reprap design used a screw to drive the filament directly, but the filament twists while advancing in response to the rotation of the screw. More recent attempts use two counter rotating screws but I haven't seen any good results yet. Here is another idea inspired by these two: 1) thread the shaft of a tiny stepper (1-by realthor - General
Guys, I am interested in a hot topic concerning dual hotends for 3D printers. They seem to be a tough nut in the reprap realm both because of seemingly poor firmware support and calibration. I am interested in the working dual hotend setups you might have. What is your experience with them and if you would recommend it to others. If yes, what are the hurdles and how did you overcome them. I wantby realthor - General
Quotepowdermetal 1. Some docs: Cycloidal Extruder Drive 2. Have indulgence - it's my first wiki... Quotepowdermetal The Cycloidal Extruder Drive has been updated with a 16:1 ratio to engage the proposed lightweight NEMA14 pancake stepper 14HR08-0654S (7Ncm, 50g). This did work fine until the heat from the stepper made the PLA-components start to creep - will be resolved soon... That's a very welby realthor - General
The third option is software-only and it'll have to be implemented in firmware so there is not much we can do (other than coding). The other two sound interesting, I'd like to hear (see) more about it if you (@dc42) or anybody else has some more details.by realthor - CoreXY Machines
Will you be using the same guides for Z? If not then what will you use?by realthor - CoreXY Machines
Fixed end stops can be achieved if you manage to have a homing routine that does home first Z, then Y and then X, X being, like you suggest, somewhere on the frame so that the X carriage touches it instead of touching the Y carriage. And all other values to be inferred by software based on constants for bed size/etc. THis way all 3 endstops can be placed in the same area (one corner of the frameby realthor - CoreXY Machines
Ok, for Z and Y you can do that. What about X? Most likely the endstop will be on te X Carriage itself with cables coming together with the other cables coming to the heater/etc.by realthor - CoreXY Machines
Hi guys, I have a question about endstops. IMHO X and Y endstops don't need that angstrom accuracy whereas the Z endstop needs a bit more consideration (for repeatability, etc) but all in all they are there just to prevent the printhead and bed from hitting sides and if one doesn't provide switches on all sides of the axes it is used for calculating the maximum perimeter the printhead is allowedby realthor - CoreXY Machines
Now this should be about all that SCOUTcorexy will be for the first iteration. I have combed quite a bit the fine details of the parts and added a Z_Idler_Printed_Clamp (it was eyelets in metal previously but I wasn't happy about it) but still have to add the end-stops and the bowden extruders: Check the model here: Note: DoubleClick on a part centers the view around it so orbiting with leftby realthor - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl Quoterealthor yehhhh, niiiice - i like it. no squashing. tubes won't twist. if you can use a bit of square plate with a tapped hole instead, you'd not need a washer, or a nut, which would be a heck of a lot easier. maybe you can find some biiiig square nuts... or just some big hex nuts. now why didn't i think of the idea of just going through one side of the extrusion, ehn? oh -by realthor - CoreXY Machines
http://reprap.org/wiki/SCOUTcorexy something for a start ... -how do I upload a picture for the "|image =" section in the upper right corner? Edit: I managed somehow but didn't quite get the usual way to do it - or how do I bulk upload pictures for the gallery ... - why don't I have the green framing around the top-right description of the machine is there a way to embed github folder for thby realthor - CoreXY Machines
Netfabb online managed to repair whatever needed repairing so at least there is one workaround but this is one more step to the process ...well...by realthor - General
Quoteetfrench I'm not sure why you would want to ungroup them, but one way of ensuring they stay in the same relationship is to add a tiny connection between them in CAD. A better way would be to make a copy in CAD and combine all of the pieces of the copy. p.s. The bolt and the nut are on the same side of the clevis, so they may not stay in position. I have a whole bunch of objects I export frby realthor - General
I do, but whereas in the CAD software the objects' parts are in contact with each other, the exported STL is still read by the slicer as separate objects and when I ungroup all the parts of the STL to arrange on the printbed it breaks some of them apart. Ex: In the CAD those parts are separate but they are touching:by realthor - General
I have a CAD design that has several parts I don't want to combine in the CAD software, instead I'd like the slicer to stop breaking apart pieces that are touching. I don't seem to find the right option in Cura or MatterControl for this setting. Every time I tell it to ungroup it takes apart some objects that should stay glued together. Anyone has any experience with this? Thanks.by realthor - General
I would only think of openscad or the programmatic type for the final job of releasing the design in the open. For everything else a visual CAD with rapid prototyping features, where I can iterate in 10 minutes 10 different designs is the best I can get. This is why i am calling DSM stellar. Otherwise I hate it for several other reasons (no TEXT tool?, no PART MIRROR -only sketchin interactive miby realthor - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDjDemonD I think you can autofix from Thingiverse now, they introduced a new app plugin. Yes it seems so. I haven't noticed it before . On a not-very-unrelated-note, I have uploaded to thingiverse the dual hotend mount that goes with this X Carriage (has the back rail that gors into the carriage's groove/etc) and also the second half that clamps the hotends together. This second half ca beby realthor - Smart_Rap
I can't write python for my CAD . I am using a proprietary (unfortunately) CAD and I have thousands of objects in the file ...can't easily port it over to OnShape or OpenSCad ... I have no time for that and I barely know this software (DesignSparkMechanical). I usually just delete whatever objects I notice are bad design or have some fault or need replacing, otherwise I modify that object. Notby realthor - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDjDemonD Looks good will certainly give it a try soon. Make sure you run it through netfabb or Co because I exported the STL from individual modules I use to quickly access and modify. Let us know how it works out.by realthor - Smart_Rap
Did a quick edit on the current design. Let me know how you find it. I haven't worked much on the appearance side... mostly functional for now. I managed to limit the widening of the whole thing by having the belts insert into the toothed side from the outside so I guess the impact on the size is minimal. Edit: new pic and STL uploaded (improved design to accept the Dual-Bowden Mount of SCOUTcby realthor - Smart_Rap
The only belts that need to be parallel are the ones going to/exiting the X carriage. The belt side going from motor to idler can be arbitrarily routed. Of course the belts from the Y carriage to the X carriage need to be parallel as well. I can have a SCALU-ready version by next week, maybe Tuesday or Wednesday uploaded to thingiverse. It won't be too much trouble, It was initially a 608 bearinby realthor - Smart_Rap
Not changes but Goals, etc ...the bird view stuff ... + a few pictures ... I believe a git is best to sync with the project folder on my computer. But I don't have experience with git either ... yetby realthor - CoreXY Machines
Wow, I don't understand anything from there ... I'm completely unfamiliar with wikis. I'll have to do some reading. Edit: nice documenting there.... trying to get my head around it. Edit: Do I need to PM an admin to open a page for me? How do I do it otherwise? I'll copy the code from your link and start from there.by realthor - CoreXY Machines