Hey Reprappers! I'm running a wooden Smartrapcore - and i am getting really bad Zits and blobs. There fore, i am really wanting to try a direct extruder (non-bowden). I am using the E3D V6 Hotend. Does anyone have some STL's for this?by Kafledelius - Smart_Rap
Please give me a feedback! This is really bugging meby Kafledelius - Printing
I see - Your issue looks kind of like mine :/ have you tried calibrating the extrusion again? - I'm desperate... So i'm trying that againby Kafledelius - Printing
Very! Have you had any luck so far? Did you get better results with another slicer?by Kafledelius - Printing
Your right - and i just tried. It did not have any visible effect :/ But it might look like the filament is being pushed over the edge because of some excess plastic from the first perimeter. Gahby Kafledelius - Printing
I Just tried tinkering with the Z values - And its made a difference. How ever, i see the blop showing only at the end of the outer perimeter. As if its not connecting the 2 "ends" of the loop. Should i try disabling coasting?by Kafledelius - Printing
Hey guys! Awesome, quick feedback! I'll try and bump up the z values, However, eliminating retractions isn't quite the goal It's also an issue while printing the benchy for example :/ I'll get back to you with another print JamesK - yea I'm very pleased with it! And it's roughly half price compared to colorfabbby Kafledelius - Printing
Hello Reprap! I am using Simplify3d with a SmartrapCore bowden setup. If you see the attatched pictures, you'll notice alot of pimples and zits. This is where the outer perimeter starts and stops. I have tried everything in S3D - From Wiping up to 8mm, coasting up to 5mm, retracting between layers and so on. The print that the picture is of, is done with 0 wiping, 2.4 mm coasting @ 60mm/s, 200by Kafledelius - Printing
Hello Reprap! So i just upgraded my CoreXY to the latest batch of Marlin firmware! It solved alot of issues i had, especially with the Auto bed levelling. How ever, after i upgraded - the Temperature is messed up. When i start my printer, it sometimes shows 100+ degrees - even if its cold. I then start heating, and then the temperature reading drops to the normal temperature?? I am sure i setby Kafledelius - General
Well, The thermistor is The same. And i didnt change Anything in The firmware. So The temperature readings is The same. Í already measured out the resistance and checked every connection of the catridgeby Kafledelius - Printing
So the issue has been resolved... It all came down to the heater catridge. I swapped it for a new 40W heater, which changed everything. Now the plastic has a different molten look when extruded on the first layer, and it even smells like melted pla now (Which i didnt quite get from the hotend before). I'm now printing even colder than ever, and getting way better results. So if your experiencingby Kafledelius - Printing
could be... I'll try using a regular cloth The sanding and hair spray did nothing......... :'( ' As a side note. I've noticed that when i turn the fan on, my hot end can't keep temperatures higher than roughly 207-210 degrees. Could this have something to do with it? Maybe the hotend cant provide enough energi?by Kafledelius - Printing
I already ordered a heated bed for it. But yea, the buildtak should work flawlessly with a cold bed. However, i've done the test calibrations, even temperature calibrations, and small cubes seems to stick perfect. A 3DBenchy boat only slightly warps towards the stern of the boat. God i hate 3d printers right now :'( Some guy i know told me to try and sand the buildtak slightly, and add some hby Kafledelius - Printing
Hello Paul! Thank you for your response. 1) I have tried printing directly on steel with PVA glue, with the same results. 2) Yes, i'm cleaning the buildtak with isopropyl alcohol. 3) I'm trying this now! As it is actually placed in my garage. Its heated though, to around 22 degrees. but the heat is a heat pump, which might apply some draft?by Kafledelius - Printing
There is No heated bed for that printer. I have also tried ising Colorfabb, Which Wasnt Any better. And i dont get Any delamination. All layers Are very strong.. Its simply The first layer that wont Stickby Kafledelius - Printing
Thank you for your answers! I have actually tried that already. I have switched filament another batch, color and so On. I have Also tried temperatures all The Way up to 235 degrees.. Also tried The slower printing speed. How ever, This batch of pla States temperatures from 190 to 240.... Which seems OFF to me :/ Oh and also, The parts Are very strong, No delamination or Anything. I just cheby Kafledelius - Printing
Just an update. I decided to Give buildtak a second chance. The print was done with the following settings: First layer width: 150% Nozzle temperature: 220 Degrees (for the first 3 layers) then 200 Degrees. Layer height: 0.2mm Default printing speed: 100mm/s First layer speed: 15% infill: 40% No cooling for the first 5 layers. And here are some pictures of the first layer and some of the end rby Kafledelius - Printing
Thats just about what i'm leaning towards doing!!!! A damn buildtak sheet for 300mm x 300mm is pricy enough! And it does not live up to the expectations of the product description! - I've done the same on my I3, which prints beautifully now. This has a heated bed though, and increasing the temp to about 55-65 degrees really does wonders.. Though i havent managed to solve the abl issue For someby Kafledelius - Printing
Well, actually Its the Weight of the cable.. I might have found a solution for that issue.. However, im still facing a but load of warping on my buildtak plate im close to throwing it out and simple print on pva Glue.....by Kafledelius - Printing
Thank you for your Response Montiey. I'll try and take some pictures in the morning. I tried the bigger extrusion width, with no result How ever, it seems that my ABL is not correcting enough on 1 side. (Same no matter what way i turn the build plate, so its not due to differences on the buildplate). So i'm going to try to design some new feet for it, see if that helps. But i doubt this wilby Kafledelius - Printing
I really find it weird, since the majority of the build is so stuck, that i have to use a great deal of force to get it off :s I also print the first layer really slow (10-15mm/s) and i even use a layer width of 150%..by Kafledelius - Printing
I would say so, yes. the prints come out with a very nice surface, and the first layer looks very good. Its a little squished, but not so much that small pikes appear on overlaps. but which calibration factores would you advice me to look at?by Kafledelius - Printing
Hello Reprap, I have 2 printers, an I3 and a Smartrapcore. The smartrapcore has a build size of 30cm x 30 cm x 30 cm And has buildtak installed. The I3 has a heated steel plate as build plate. When i try to print PLA, it warps in the cornors. This happends on both of them. I tried different temperatures (190 - 220 degrees), with and without active cooling and i even tried heating the heated bby Kafledelius - Printing
No i use the random point selection. I will try a print with the same position. If this helps, how can i avoid it in the future? i'd hate to see a seem all the way through my prints. Plus, this only happends on round spots.by Kafledelius - Printing
I just tried printing from SD Card... This also has the same pimples, not as many, but still has them Does this narrow the issue down a bit?by Kafledelius - Printing
Thank you Olaf Is it possible to read the current setting as well with that command?by Kafledelius - General
Hello Reprappers, I have been looking through the M and G codes for marlin, and i couldnt find the code for altering the z offset (for auto bed levelling). is this because there isnt any? or did i simply fail?by Kafledelius - General
Does nobody have any thoughts about upgrading the raspberry pi 2? - It is stated to be up to 6 times faster, maybe that will help a bit?by Kafledelius - Printing
Yes i actually perfomed the test, and the result was better (lesser pimples) and the print took 1 hour 34 minutes (even though i halfed the speed like 75% in to the print), and a print from octopi took 2 hours 22 minutes AND the x-axis skipped (i checked the current of the steppers which were exactly as they used to be) And this is not the first time i experience this skipping. while printing froby Kafledelius - Printing
I have never noticed any stuttering But as i mentioned, when using octoprint, the print does take alot more time.. Which might be due to micro pauses? Or am i wrong?by Kafledelius - Printing