I see. I'll definitely look into it! I am also printing with Octoprint - Could this have an effect on the print as well? I have noticed that all of the prints take quite a lot longer than it used to, when printing directly from SD and not via octoprint. Would it help to upgrade to the raspberry pi 2?by Kafledelius - Printing
Yes i am actually Straight walls are perfect ! How do you upgrade to 32 bit? a new controller board?by Kafledelius - Printing
Hello Reprappers! I have been trying to print the LSF elephant from thingiverse, and no matter what i do, it gets theese small pimples that you see on the pictures in the end of this post. I have been fine tuning and calibrating for a couple of days, and the belts are tight, the steps per mm. on the extruder is correct, and i have also measured my filament and used an average of that as the filaby Kafledelius - Printing
I'm actually quite happy about my buildtak now! after i increased the temperature of my PLA it sticks like a charm and its easy to take off! I havent had any warping for a couple of prints now even a 170x30mm long square came out with no warp!by Kafledelius - Printing
thank you Montiey, will try it. I am using white PLA which it seems most people is using relatively low temperature on (195 ish). I have to have et at 210 or higher to get adhesion. Does this sound right to you guys? Or is the printing temperature more brand related than color related?by Kafledelius - Printing
Thank you very Much Waley. I have similar result, though i have an unheated bed which means the bed is 20 to 22 degrees hot. i never get Glue like adhesion. The first layer seems to be sticking Ok, but after a few layers it warps. I if stop the print after first layer, the layer is not hard to pull offby Kafledelius - Printing
Hello Reprappers! So i just bought my self a Buildtak plate. I keep reading about people having a hardtime getting prints OFF a buildtak. How ever, my issue is in the opposit direction.. My Prints does not adhere very well. (PLA Prints, havent tried ABS yet) it starts warping and i can easy pick it up from the buildplate with little or no force. I did some experimenting with nozzle height and tby Kafledelius - Printing
I'm so glad you've concluded that Thank you DC42! However, are you sure ? There someone in the same community who printed it with less ridges than mine :/by Kafledelius - Printing
I'm sorry the STL is a bit modified. But that is the exact one i printed from.by Kafledelius - Printing
Heres the STL. STL Notice theres some small lines which makes out the "bricks" that the tower is made from? Its around theese lines the ridges are formed. My guess is as following. Either i am printing too fast, or the printer is either on wobbling surface or is too loose somewhere in the structure it self.by Kafledelius - Printing
No i dont Normally it prints really good! I check to see the if the movement of the extruder was smooth, and to the eye, it was perfect. Hmm. I'm leaning towards the STL being "broken". The STL is the dice tower from thingiverseby Kafledelius - Printing
Oh i'm sorry! The post was made in the haze of the morning its printed on an i3, runnning on RAMPS 1.4 with marlin firmware. The extruder is a E3D Chimera. I'm printing from an SD card. The slicer is Simplify3d at 0.1mm, and aprox. 80mm/sec. The spacing between the ridges is aprox 0.7cm to 1cm apart.by Kafledelius - Printing
Hello Guys, If you see the attatched images, you will see some vertical lines. Why do theese appear? I have checked my belt tension, and they are really tight. Do i need to alter my accelerations? Is it over extrusion?by Kafledelius - Printing
Oh and i forgot to mention that i had ABL running with a normal micro Switch. Nobody have any ideas?by Kafledelius - General
Hello Guys, i am trying to install an inductive Z-endstop on my printer, for Auto bed levelling. However, i can't find the option to ignore Z-endstops? - The guide i followed (Thomas Salander) uses the #define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING however, my firmware (marlin) doesn't have that option???? How do i enable this feature?by Kafledelius - General
Seems like quite a bit of work to get this new version running... How is it handling dual extrusion? same as old version? no feature to select what hot end prints what?by Kafledelius - General
Well, i see a difference on each layer, small dents and bumps.. If anyone can help me pinpoint what might be the reason for that, i'd be great. - Also, if anything else pops into someones eyesby Kafledelius - Printing
Hello Reprappers! So i built my own I3, and i have it calibrated and its printing fairly good (To my own opinion). But now i am looking for guidance towards further optimizations of my printer. I have attatched some pictures of a print i made of Emmets screwless Cube gears. Would you guys have a look and maybe give me some pointers to what you think i can optimize? The Print is done at 0.2mby Kafledelius - Printing
Which was also the case for me.. Thank you very much !by Kafledelius - General
Thank you for your reply sungod3k. I am having an issue where it seems that the filament gets stuck in the PTFE tubing. Have you experienced this?by Kafledelius - General
Hello Guys! So i got this new E3D Chimera, and it's wonderful! However i want to try and print flexible filaments. My current setup is a bowden setup. When i try to print Flexible filaments, the filaments gets "stuck" on the inside of the bowden tube (i think) and therefore cannot extrude. Has anyone experienced the same issue and maybe come up with a solution? Perhabs a direct drive extruderby Kafledelius - General
Is this even possible in the new version of marlin?by Kafledelius - General
The z probe reproducibility seems to be good. How ever, the z probe retracts between each probing. This seems to me like a big error margin. How do i get it to stay down?by Kafledelius - General
Anyone knows?by Kafledelius - General
There is no play on my y-carriage in a horizontal direction, however, when i push 1 corner, its the frame thats bending, more than the springs taking the pressure... - Could this be the issue?by Kafledelius - General
So i just levelled my bed using G30, and i tried adjusting to a 3 point measuring, since my y-carriage plate only has 3 bearings. Heres the results: Bed x: 70.00 y: 180.00 z: 3.24 Bed x: 70.00 y: 20.00 z: 3.32 Bed x: 170.00 y: 100.00 z: 3.30 - And one side is still aprox. 0.1mm higher than the other. I then did a 9 point measurement, which came out with: Bed x: 70.00 y: 20.00 z: 3.30 Bed x: 125by Kafledelius - General
Thank you for your feedback thetazzbot. I will post my G29 output when i get home from work. The x and y values are being messed up after i run the G29 command. Before that it is perfect. As you see my x and y offsets are 65 and 3, and theese seem to be the offset the axis's are experiencing. I did try to manually level the bed, not using the g30 though, but with the old fashion piece of paperby Kafledelius - General
Bumping a really old thread here, sorry.. I am having the same issue as dc42 and p3d.. Did you guys find a solution? My printer prints too high on one side, no matter what i do. I have tried to manually level the bed, tilt the bed a lot (tested the abl), recalibrating Steps per mm, and a few other things. - Please help ?by Kafledelius - Slic3r
Scratch the above message. One side is still higher than the other. And, i tried to test the auto bed calibration today, by making one side significantly lower. This made the auto bed levelling even more off on its correction. Can someone please help me? Should i install the enhanced G29 command? And add more probe points? Can these issues be triggered by my bed not being stiff enough? It's asby Kafledelius - General
It turned out it was because i had stored some settings via the controller.. How do i unable this function? so that the firmware i upload has the "upper hand"?by Kafledelius - General