Hi guys, ive got a mk3 aluminium heatbed that wont get past about 85c (covered) or 73c (uncovered). Ive just measured the resistance at the soldered connections at the base of the heat bed (im running it on 12v) and im getting 3.2ohms! Thats on the 200 setting of my multimeter. Now im not a electronics guru so am i way off here? When i touch the probes i get 0.05ohms which would be about normal fby ixlix - General
Ok ive resolved the heating issue, seems to be Repetier-host. Changed to Pronterface and all is working as it should.... and so ive completed my first successful print!! I think a better Z axis is needed as it tends to move a bit during the print, so i think i'll add this dual z axis on thingyverse. Now the fun part of tweaking the settings to get some good prints. Heres photos of my first prby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Ok this has been solved. Re-uploaded the firmware and changed to Pronterface and i now have control of the hotend and heatbed. Thanks for your suggestion Tim.by ixlix - RAMPS Electronics
When you say directly, what do you mean? Through the manual control panel if Repetierhost? I will try and send some M109 commands tomorrow. When I run a print which has the heatup codes in it, it doesn't heat up. All the other things work as they should and gcodes for movement are fine. Is it possible its stuck in Dry Run mode which ignores the hotend and heatbed?by ixlix - RAMPS Electronics
Hi guys, I'd love some advice on my ramps board. I can heat the hotend and heatbed by using the Preheat function of the LCD screen and everything gets as hot as it should be. When I try and heat them through Repetierhost they don't heat up. Would this be a firmware config issue? A ramps hardware issue? Blown MOSFET? I'm stuck and this is the last thing stopping me from printing. Thanks in aby ixlix - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks David, fan is now wired to 12v. Would the hotend and bednot heating through software be a mosfet problem with the ramps board?by ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Ok, offset is adjusted via the M851 command. Next problem: For some reason I now cannot control either the heatbed or hotend temps via Repeteir or Pronterface. I can preheat using the lcd controller and that works fine but not through the software. What am i missing? It did work before, not sure what ive changed. Although the E3D Lite6's fan never came on unless i preheated via the lcd.by ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Awesome thanks Patrick. Ive adjusted them down to .3v so .6amps. I'll see how they go at that for a little while. Ive got some little heatsinks i'll attach but as you said on top of the chips probably wont do much. Worth putting on though. So i have it dry running, just have to adjust z offset and wire up and attach the heatbed. Whats the best gauge wire for the heatbed? dry run video Ive noby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Thanks for the great answer Patrick. I believe you are correct that in the end its the amps you are adjusting, but the actual readings from the drivers on the multimeter is in volts, and with the DRV8825 it then multiplied by a factor of 2 to get the resulting amps. So if im aiming at 0.8amps, i need to adjust until i see 0.4v on the multimeter. I found this video from Pololu very helpful... adjuby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Thanks Patrick, I think i found the problem. I hadnt adjusted the vref on the DRV8825's and i think they were a bit high, causing them to overheat hit thermal shutdown. The Z driver was really hot when i touched it. This makes sense as i hadnt changed anything since it was working fine. I read online that the purple copies of the DRV8825s (im assuming mine are Chinese copies for the price) come wby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Okay so it seems to be working as it should, just doesnt seem to like manual movements in repeteir. Another issue has come up, when i now try and home the Z axis, its gets halway up and then the bed drops down again, and then the motor tries to lift it up to z min again, always failing to get it up. Its like it loses power or something. Anyone have any advice? Alexby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
I am running the Smartrapcore firmware, and CoreXY is enabled. As i said, for the most part it moves as it should. Heres a config dump: #include #ifndef CONFIGURATION_H #define CONFIGURATION_H // This configuration file contains the basic settings. // Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h // BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Okay, heres a video showing my issue with both axes moving when only controoling one at a time, or homing one axis at a time. All the movements in this video are started with trying to move a single axis only. You can see that the head moves diagonally which means both ases are moving when only one should. The crash in the video is from trying to home the x axis when the y was too close to its maby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
I am running two motors, its just that sometimes when I press home x, the y moves a bit too. I will try and get a video. The printer moves as it should.by ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Yeah I will upgrade the z axis once I can print with this. I also have a few changes I'll make to the existing printed parts I have. So I got her moving in all directions One question, when I home or move the X axis using Repetierhost, sometimes but not always the y axis also moves. What would cause this? Belts too tight?by ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Thanks Jmax, i was talking more about the precision of the z axis in the x axis direction. I guess i'll do my best to get it completely square. It should be pretty close as the box was cnc so should be 100% square itself.by ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Okay so a little update, had a great time cutting the box on a friends large cnc router. After reading that the mdf boxes can become a bit of a speaker box, i designed in some holes, note the x and y All assembled and ready for paint. I plan on cutting a section out of the lower front brace to fit the lcd screen. And painted.... Being able to mount the y rod carriers allowed me to cuby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
So I have finally gathered all the parts to start my first ever printer build, and Ive chosen the Smartcore. Ive had the printed parts printed in Glow inthe Dark Blue ABS (hopefully look as cool as i think it will) and will be cutting the frame pieces tomorrow. Using the Onshape version of the Smartcore was really great, allowing for easy customisation. Ive studied Industrial Design so know my waby ixlix - CoreXY Machines
Okay so whats the printer actually like? For me it works out at AU$580 shipped or i can get a "genuine" ReprapPro Ormerod 2 locally for $880. Im wondering if its worth the extra in the long run.by ixlix - Ormerod