Discussioni sulle parti elettriche ed elettroniche, motori, endstop, etc. Parliamo di struttura della stampante, pulegge, madreviti, boccole, viti trapezoidali, etc.Parts are printed and i make mistake with dimension. Redraw and now print the second piece again. At the end the distance between the (center) of the nozzle willl be 41,8 mm ... More news to comeby Zlob - Smart_Rap
Printing second piece of dual HotEnd for smartrap.by Zlob - Smart_Rap
Hi all, i'm printing the new dual hotnd support. I've draw in a very easy way. At the end if all works i will put file onto thingiverse. Just to know anyone else tryed this ? (I use e3d v5 hotend)by Zlob - Smart_Rap
Thanks a lot. Worked perfectly. I am asking myself if there is a page where find all the info needed to setup autolevel bed or we must look around like this time.by Zlob - Smart_Rap
HI all. A friend of mine built a smartcore exactly like mine. The only difference is the sensor: mine is a 4mm sensor his is a 8mm sensor. I'm using the firmware from smartfriendz github repo, latest version for mk8. I've try to do the same step i do to setup the autolevel: - g28 to zero axis - some G0 Z-0.1 -> -1.2 to put the noozle at a paper sheet distance - put the value (-1.2) to marlin sby Zlob - Smart_Rap
So wich is the correct sequence to setup a SmartCore ? I use this one: g28 to zero the axis; send some g0 z-0.1 thru 0.5 to find the nozzle offset (paper sheet method) store the value (eg. 0.3) into config.h file at these lines: 446 #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 40 <- distance beween nozzle and sensor center (approx) for X 447 #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 <- distance beweeby Zlob - Smart_Rap
- 10 years agoSorry i'm not using Repetier. It's a test i will do but can't tell you when... BTW, have you read this: ? Forgot to mention the config.h that rcjoseb wrote into another thread, for my smartcore. The config is supposed to work with rcjoseb machine and IS repetier firmware. Just save ot to a config.h file, than upload to repetier firmware config site and go on. Hope it helpby Zlob - Smart_Rap
Hi, I use a cheap "aliexpress" e3d clone too. Look like u are using a too low PLA temp. I usually use 200° or 205° without heated bed, and 195° with heated bed. Also, check that the temp. sensor is in good contect with metal. If not use alu foil (cooking one!) to made good contact. Hope it help.by Zlob - Smart_Rap
- 10 years agoI got same problem too. I forgot to think that printer use "ABSOLUTE POSITION". So, if u want to raise eg 0,5 mm up u must give the "G0 Z-0.5" command and NOT "G0 Z-0." command five time. Remeber to do this too: #define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. Hope help.by Zlob - Smart_Rap
And at the end, the printer works. I had some issue with ZSensor but i can arrange it. Some picture: First attempt Ham as ckeychain Some guitar peg for my son: The printer work. Now i want to add a hotbed AND a fan, but the sensor i have is 12 mm and the fan i found re for 18 ... Still wait if someone can reduce the hole. FORGOT to say THANKS to all ppl that help me (and other) to getby Zlob - Smart_Rap
In Marlin, config.adv: #define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 3600 -> in secondi, in questo caso un'ora. In questo modo aumenti il timeout ma NON risolvi il problema a fine stampa e/o mancanza di elettricita'. (Io lo uso con la mia smartrapcore, che usa Z a cinghia ma fa scendere il piatto in stampa ...) Salutiby Zlob - Elettronica e meccanica
Quotec11610o QuoteZlob ... Ho provato in tutte le maniere ma non c'e'verso di fare muovere l'asse Z oltre il finecorsa... non puoi abbassarlo un po' il finecorsa? voler andare oltre quando sei appoggiato non credo sia molto saggio. No, il "finecorsa" e' un sensore di prossimita' e mi serve per attivare l'autolivellamento. Il problema e' bisogna conoscere la distanza fra il nozzle e il sensore.by Zlob - Elettronica e meccanica
QuoteMagoKimbra Il problema potrebbe essere repetier... Se per lui stai a zero anche se clicchi non manda il comando per niente... Imposta come min z di repetier un valore negativo in modo che continui a mandare i comandi altrimenti manda i comandi a mano... Quindi metto come massima Z un valore del tipo -20 ? Se volessi mandare i comandi "a mano" come faccio ? Dalla riga di comando di Repetieby Zlob - Elettronica e meccanica
Salve a tutti. Sto cercando di tarare la mia smartrpcore ma non c'e' verso. Mi spiego: seguendo le varie guide, devo stabilire la distanza fra sensore e ugello. Una volta effettuato il comando G28 (zero assi x,y e z) dovrei eseguire una serie di comandi G0 Z0,1 per stabilire la distanza fra nozzle e sensore (piano?). Ho provato in tutte le maniere ma non c'e'verso di fare muovere l'asse Z oltre iby Zlob - Elettronica e meccanica
Thanks all. I'm on holiday for a week so no test until next monday ...by Zlob - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 I saved his files as OpenSCAD, and adjusted them how I needed them. I try to do the same but i'm not able to ...by Zlob - Smart_Rap
For the ZAxis with screw rod made by Jerry, i try to modify it to ude10mm rod and M5 or M6 screw rod, but I can't do it. I asked to Jerry on youmagine but no answer till now. Quotercjoseb 304.8mm x 10mm square aluminum tubes attached to the Z slides from left to right. These are used to support a wood base. These are parallel to X axis, right ? Quotercjoseb The last piece is a 304.8mm x 304.8mmby Zlob - Smart_Rap
Hi all. After lot of test, with lot maerials i really need help with Z axis. Today i reprint the z axis, and use the V 1.2 . Still having some trouble: as i use 10 mm rod the sledge touch a little backward. But the worst thing is which kind of plate i must use. I look on the net and see that Serge use a little piece of wood with some kind of glass fixed on it; someone ise larger wood with glass;by Zlob - Smart_Rap
QuoteManuHC Zlob consigli quindi di mantenere la puleggia stampata invece che acquistarla in metallo? Grazie intanto del link Io proverei con una stampata con magari 2 o 3 fissaggi. Poi se la vuoi di alluminio, pigliala su aliexpress che al momento (e per la 2° volta) mi consegna in poco piu' di 15 gg di calendario ! (Ordine spedito il 13/06, in consegna Lunei prossimo!) Salutiby Zlob - Elettronica e meccanica
Li trovi un generatore di pulegge anche a 3 fermi a 120°. Per avere il profilo GT2 alla voce profile, metti 12 (se vuoi altri profili, butta un occhio al sorgente.) Con gli altri parametri ti scegli tutto il resto (altezza, idler, fermo, n. di denti etc.) Salutiby Zlob - Elettronica e meccanica
Quotecabo35 Io ho un sensore NPN NO ma non sono sicuro di avere capito bene come collegarlo alla mia Ramps. Altra domanda: dove devo tastare con il tester per verificare che l'uscita del sensore mi dia il -5V? Help mi Ciao. IO ho un sensore simile al tuo (NPN NO) ed ho usato 2 resistenze 1/4W da 10K, collegate in serie. Sulla prima colleghi il filo nero, nella giunzione in mezzo il filo che poby Zlob - Elettronica e meccanica
Check the connection between Sensor and Signal on ramps. If you have a multimeter check Volt between sensor signal out and ground in both state (light of & light on) to see if something change. If not, the sensor is out OR the resistor OR the 7805 are out.by Zlob - Smart_Rap
Quotemandrav I mean, once you *manually* level your bed once, there is really no reason for it to become non-level. Why have an auto-leveling process which tries to correct your non-level bed when you could just level it once and be done with it? Also, with auto-leveling enabled, your Z motor(s) will be constantly working throughout the print adding even more variables to the final print qualityby Zlob - Smart_Rap
Another silly question: the proxy sensor must be lower than hotend or upper ? In both case any suggestion about how mm ? Any suggestion on how instruct the firmware to use autolevel bed ? Thanks !by Zlob - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendzthat's strange with the build volume ? Normally, if you enter 250x250x250 in the print size, you will go for 315 mm X rod size, for example and that should give you around 250mm printable on X ( with a 250 wide plate of course ). I will check again though.. Well, just re-generate with JSCAD, version "1.0.8 mar 2015" with these parameters: X,Y,Z = 250 wood thikness = 17 xrodby Zlob - Smart_Rap
Ciao a tutti. Il nick lo avete, il nome e' Francesco. Sto costruendo una SmartRapCORE e ho appena scoperto la sezione in italiano... Se qualcuno ha gia' costruito / sta costruendo e apre un topic nella sezione giusta (quale?) sulla stampante di cui sopra, sarei felice di partecipare ! Gracias !by Zlob - Presentazioni, Off Topic e le migliori stampe
My hardware is right. MicroStep is 1/16 as driver is4988 Stpper motors are 1,8°/step Belt is GT2 Pulley are 20T The answer is here: On the first answer Mr. Repetier say that on corexy u must multiply *2 the calculated step*mm. And i got 80 step*mm but i need to put 160 ... I'm still surprised that no one got same trouble as me ... *** NEWS *** The effective print volume isn't as expected. Iby Zlob - Smart_Rap
@dkulinski: i'm not sure at all. I'm checking all the stuff to find the mistake. The pulley are 20T for sure, as i generate it with a thingiverse generator and printed them. Again, i have count the teeth and they are 20. Driver are 4988 for sure: i read (with a big lens !) the value directly from the chip. Ramps and Mega are ok, the software is now the repetier one as ican change on the fly someby Zlob - Smart_Rap
A disposizione. There is an italian language forum ?by Zlob - Smart_Rap