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Voor alles wat niet in de andere groepen past. Ook voor beginners die niet weten waar hun vraag thuis hoort, post hem hier.
Decapitated... :-( - 2 years ago
Hi, I always made my own printers, still do. For some reason my son decided to buy a PrusaMini. I'm busy Printing a SaturnV rocket scale 1:33. Finished SaturnV ans it's launchplatform will be 4.2m high. Whit it I'm printing figures performing different tasks. And you guessed it, I asked my son to join me printing these figures 55mm high. When I slice I get a normal preview/print, but using thby chriske - Printing
Prusa-mini hardware configuration change - 2 years ago
Hi guys, Is there a possible way to change the PrusaMini from a bowden to a direct drive setup. Someone tried it before..? Thanks Chrisby chriske - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Printing curved top surface - 3 years ago
I am a Linux user....100%Wintendo-free...by chriske - General
Printing curved top surface - 3 years ago
Hey guys, A while ago I found a site describing how to print shallow curved top surface in one go, no layers visible. Is there some progress there. Is it doable with a regular printer. Or are there restrictions. Thanksby chriske - General
Re: Failed to connect - 4 years ago
meanwhile found the faulty component. I systematically removed all connectors from RAMPS, still no connection. What's left...? Yep drivers. Removing all drivers and the very last driver removed got me connected again.by chriske - Printing
Failed to connect - 4 years ago
Hi guys, Never had this before. Built a dozen (same) printers. Standard installation, Arduino Mega/RAMPS1.4. Nothing fancy. Port is not seen in Arduino nor the slicer. Already replaced both When I disconnect Arduino from RAMPS I can connect to Arduino and upload firmware. Plug in RAMPS again, connection is gone. Checked, rechecked all connections. What's on the RAMPS : 2x TMC2100 for both X andby chriske - Printing
Re: Has anyone got this 2 in 1 hot end to work? - 4 years ago
QuoteDancer Well, in my honest opinnion I think this is junk. Because this fan can never get a significant amount of air through the hotend and so never can keep it cool upwards. If the upper section (above the heatbreaks) is not cool, the filament gets soft and jams. Indeed JUNK..!! A modified Volcano will do the job. I use very big nozzles(in a way comparable to dual color device), but for thby chriske - General
Re: Is it still worth it to build? - 4 years ago
Designed and built my own, never regretted it. I make near perfect prints with it. Meanwhile a few friends copied my design and are very happy with it.by chriske - General
Re: Heatbed issues - 4 years ago
Hey Mike, We're eager to start working on this project. We only started discussing it only last Thursday after we failed these new silicone-heaters to implement in our new set of printers. They actually do work but not to our standards. We're hoping to find some answer here on this forum how to proceed. That's in fact the main reason of this post. Some of your posts here has given us already lotby chriske - General
Re: Heatbed issues - 4 years ago
Hey guys, About these fumes I wouldn't worry to much because these fumes only releases from the Teflon parts at 300°C. Heating the bed to about 75°C, is far from that 'target'. I never use other then PLA. I also think of using two thermistors in 'cascade'. The first to prevent the wires from heating to much and the second to controle the bed for it's working temperature. There's no need to warby chriske - General
Re: Heatbed issues - 4 years ago
Why not just glue the insulated wires against a sheet of alu with Katon tape...? Very good stuff..!by chriske - General
Re: Heatbed issues - 4 years ago
Great tip there Mike..! But I would change the concept. I'd use two sheets of thin alu. Between these two sheets I'd glue narrow shims of alu and lay the wire in a loop between these shims. No milling work involved.by chriske - General
Re: Heatbed issues - 4 years ago
Hey thanks for the info TDD, I knew all this but it does not answer to the original question about the halogen-lamps. I do build my own(designed) printers and posted about it in another section of this forum. Look for Ulti-Printer. My printers (now V3) has many non-standard-features that helps giving us superb perimeters. Six have been built so far and used by me and a few friends. Again we'reby chriske - General
Re: SaturnV - 4 years ago
Busy building a bigger printer to print even larger SaturnV rockets. Next rocket will be almost 4 meter high. Crawler included.. To do that I need one of these... I'll probably be using a 2.5mm nozzle for this task. The one on the far right is a 'standard'(commercial) 0.4mm nozzle.by chriske - Look what I made!
Heatbed issues - 4 years ago
Hi, We're using printers of own design. In the past we did use the regular PCB heatbeds. Because they were very slow when using larger printbeds we decided to switch to silicone-heaters. They are very fast and very good, until now. The last set of silicone heaters do not distribute the warmth evenly over the printsurface AT ALL..! Now we're thinking of making our own heatbeds with halogen lamps.by chriske - General
Re: SaturnV - 5 years ago
Made them myself Frank, Copied them from the internet, printed and use double sided adhesive paper. Very strong stuff. Lots of cutting involved... I did use decals for the one already present in the picture because a background is ok here. I need to make some more, very small, decals. And there are also some very small, but I'm going to ignore these. They're way to small. But for the big letterby chriske - Look what I made!
Re: SaturnV - 5 years ago
It's a few years now I do work with PLA. I know how far I can go. In the past I've done some thorough tests with PLA in the sun unprotected During that test we had temp. up to 38°C during summer..! It were a few very thin hollow rings 150mm diameter I was testing. I added 1 kg of weight at the base of these rings. All these rings had different colors. After 8(eight) months in the spring/summer-auby chriske - Look what I made!
Re: SaturnV - 5 years ago
Stored in my van. (No more room in my workshop). The fourth rocket is not done yet. There's no more time left to do that last one before open door at our observatory. It will serve as is: pristine white. I have some other (printed) project that needs finishing before open door starts. (A Kutter binoscope) Anyway just added a few decals. Next week I'll add the large 'USA' lettering.by chriske - Look what I made!
SaturnV - 5 years ago
Hey guys, This SaturnV rocket took me less then 48 hours to print. Standard printer(own design - see earlier thread - Ultiprinter). PLA - nozzle 1.5mm - layers 1.2mm - Speed 45mm/s - temp 245°C - About 90% is printed in SpiralVase modus. Height of that thing is 1.98 meter - 3.2 kg. I actually printed four of these rockets. Busy painting and lettering that thing.by chriske - Look what I made!
Re: Hotend won't stay hot, needs insualtion. - 6 years ago
You could also try and pour your own silicone sock. I made one for larger hotends(2mm+ nozzles) Making the negative is rather easy. Just print it. To have a very close fit I made my positive out of aluminium. But a printed positive will do nicely too. You need to find silicone that withstand that kind of heat. The brand I bought can handle temp up to 300°C(Were I live 'Vosschemie' do sell it)by chriske - Printing
0.7mm nozzle - oozing - 6 years ago
Hi, Never had this problem before, even with a 1.5 and a 2mm nozzle. As a matter of fact busy testing a 2.2 and a 2.5 mm nozzle. Anyway... Together with a few friends busy printing parts for our Ulti-Printers(own design). Nozzle is 0.7mm encountering some oozing problems while printing rather complex shapes. Never had this before. To begin with slicer does its job very good. Only one minor issueby chriske - Printing
Re: Partially heated bed - 6 years ago
Oh and btw way 4xbed + 2xchamber... Wouldn't that be the same as 6xbed...??by chriske - Duet
Re: Partially heated bed - 6 years ago
So I need to add G-code in the slicer to determine what section(s) of the bed needs to be warmed up...correct..?by chriske - Duet
Partially heated bed - 6 years ago
Is that been done before, partially heated bed...? On a larger printer it's a bit silly to warm the complete surface printing a small part.So the idea is to divide the bed in section that can be switched on or of as needed. I posted this in another thread and someone pointed me to this section of the forum. He was told that a duet was capable of managing multiple heated bed sections.by chriske - Duet
Re: Partially heated bed - 6 years ago
Any idea how it's done, is there any info on the subject..?by chriske - General
Partially heated bed - 6 years ago
Hi, Building a somewhat larger printer right now I was thinking, why not adding a partially heated bed. I think it's a bid silly, but most of all there's no need to warm up an complete surface if you only need a very small heated area when printing small object's. What's more doing so, it would save lots of energy if you often print small objects. Is that been done before, partially heated bed..by chriske - General
Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago
And finally success.! This time I made a three-part-silicone-sock, third part not in the picture yet. That third part is nothing more than a silicone ring to hold the other two parts tightly together. After some trimming at the edges it is ready to be used. Still the printed mold need some minor adjustments to make it absolutely perfect.by chriske - Printing