I dont know enough about the deltas to confirm the thesis but you could make new brackets with 3-4 bearing. That could straighten the movement along the axis.by sungod3k - Delta Machines
Well the beauty of the Deltas is that upsizing is simpler than with cartesian printers. There is an exel file floating around with lets you calculate the base triangle, arm length and height etc for any diameter bed. I myself are working on an upscale wolfstock and I had my size only limited by the length of available Vrail extrusion, but since the brackets stay the same and the alu extrusion dby sungod3k - Delta Machines
Yes I had already calibrated with the old firmware. The problem went away after i had reuploaded sprinter and then marlin again. I dont know what happened there.by sungod3k - General
Hi, I´ve just managed to get Marlin running and the axis the switches and the free extrusion work well. However if I print there is not enough material coming out, it looks like a the nozzle is blocked or the extruder is underfeeding. Im not sure if this is Marlin related I had a similar issue when I changed the threaded rod at the z axis. There it was the other way around while printing the aby sungod3k - General
Ah never mind, I had used the board definition from the manufacturer not the ones coming with marlin itself. Compiles now normally.by sungod3k - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi, I'm just trying to get Marlin running on my Sanguinololu 1.3a. I´ve seen multiple threads saying that this is possible but I'm running into the same error QuoteMarlin_main.cpp:301: error: 'analogInputToDigitalPin' was not declared in this scope the corresponding line of code is Quoteconst int sensitive_pins[] = SENSITIVE_PINS; // Sensitive pin list for M42 There is a thread about this hby sungod3k - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have a similar problem. Did you find out what it was? and is it possible that a faulty/burned mosfet can be the cause of that?by sungod3k - RAMPS Electronics
That looks better. I have keep my eyes open for a glass case. Do you think you can get the pieces a bit smaller? Half of the pieces are probably to big for the Filastruder.by sungod3k - General
What kind of blender did you use? I just tried it and f**ked up my cheap blender I think you need a more expensive one with a glass container and a big sheet with lots of time to melt the plastic as thin as possible. Pics:by sungod3k - General
That could work. I thought about building a low heat furnace but this sounds much easier. If I melt enough plastic that I get a 1-2mm sheet of plastic the blender could handle it.by sungod3k - General
Hm I dont believe that would work. The mechanism is a spiral/auger and the crushing action happens if the meat hits a sieve, so one would need an extraordinary amount of force, pushing a solid plastic part though. However a conic auger without sieve would probably do the trick as well. It would start big to get the bigger parts and suppress the continuously, but that would be a custom job as welby sungod3k - General
Yeah thought of that but for 600 and up i can pay a metalworker^^ My homeblender managed only to get through 4-5 layer thick pieces everything bigger was violently kicked around and came out with only a few scratches.by sungod3k - General
Since I got my filastruder running I´m looking for a plastic shredder to also use the 40$/kilo print scrap together with fresh pellets. My household blender is not nearly powerful enough for this job and the only two alternatives the 400$ shredder from filabot and a set of plans from thingyverse are too expensive. Therefore my question has someone ever seen a mill/shredder/blender or other consby sungod3k - General
Im on the lookout for some small cogwheels fitting on a 5mm D-shaft which enable two drive gears on parallel axis to move together. So if you have a metal lathe and time for some iterations for this project let me know.by sungod3k - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Hey, Im in the works of designing a new extruder and I need some cogwheels for the 5mm D-shaft.My printer isnt good enough to print these small cogwheels precise enough. Anyone know a site which has a good assortment of cogwheels?by sungod3k - General
Yes that goes for 120$ if you want stl exportby sungod3k - General
Hey, Looking back over my last designs I see myself needing a good gear simulator. There are some paid versions like the one from woodgears.ca and gearsimulator v4 but they are either expensive or dont have stl export. Any usable gear simulator you use?by sungod3k - General
@dissidence: that a great product, probably the easiest solution Ill probably start with something like that [3.bp.blogspot.com] soldered together from scrap.by sungod3k - General
Hey printer commanders, as I´m adding more and more details to upgrade my printer I noticed that most kits neglect the amount of fans a printer needs. Of course this is a bit of a luxury problem and the essential model cooling fan is implemented easily on most boards, but when I imagine that I´d like to cool 4 motors during longer prints, 1 nozzle, 1-2 for cooling the board and 1-2 more for modby sungod3k - General
tjb1 looks like you´re the winner I just reuploaded the firmware and halved the homing speed. Looks like the additional z steps I had to add in order to compensate for the lesser pitch of my finethread z axis caused the speed to go up. Seems to work for now.by sungod3k - General
There is definitely less power when I home z i can easily stop the motor with one hand. I just switched the steppers drivers, the axis and the motors and it doesnt matter what driver or motor I use the weird behavior show only when I home z. Which would indicate a firmware issue.by sungod3k - General
That makes sense, Im gonna test different drivers on different motors today to exclude bad drivers.by sungod3k - General
I got a finethread m8 instead of a 5/16" and switched to different printed motor bracketsby sungod3k - General
Hi guys and girls, Recently i did some changes to me z axis and recalibrated afterwards. Im unsing sprinter + pronterface. When I give the command to move the z axis up everything works fine and smooth but when I give the z home command the motor starts stalling and eventually blocks completely. Even when I disconnect the coupler and have the motor running freely I hear it skipping steps. Also wby sungod3k - General
Yes I like the delta alternative. I also foundby sungod3k - General
I have all electronics, motors, bed, extruder a full printer. You´re right i should be a bit more precise. I want a frame that needs few specialized parts and is sturdy enough to endure acceleration of >4000 at a decent print size of 25cm³ It would probably easiest to get a I3 frame, the mendelmax (http://reprapuniverse.com/catalog/images/mendelmax_1_5_frame_kit_large.png) is probaly sturdiby sungod3k - General
Hey printer commanders, I need a new frame for my reprap, I bought one from a kickstarter but the longer I use and fix it the more I see some pretty damming design flaws. Yesterday I calculated that I need some ~140$ more and even then I need to spend time and creativity to get a sub optimal printer. For that money I can get either a I3 frame or enough aluminum profile and belts to make a deltaby sungod3k - General
In the meantime I got the fine thread and I did exactly what I hoped it would do. the gaps are gone and there is much less play.by sungod3k - Reprappers
Ah interesting thats exactly the topic. Lets see what comes out of this.by sungod3k - General
Hey printer commanders, Some days ago I read here in the forum about someone printer going up in flames. I´m also not completely trusting of my machine yet but I had an idea to better that. Its probably not new, but is there a command one could put in the firmware which would shut down the printer if the hot end is on full power for longer than 2-3 minutes? Of course this doesnt help if your bby sungod3k - General