I set my center with slicer.by sungod3k - Reprappers
Seems a good idea. Im buying fine thread lead screw at the moment. The only thing you have to be careful with is not creating any misalignments in your z axis rods and the lead screw. If thats of your inviting shear force and further problems. But I havent seen someone test a rigid connection vs flexible couplers. Let me know how it turns out.by sungod3k - Reprappers
What does Slicer do with the file?by sungod3k - Reprappers
I heard that tetrahydrafuran is an equivalent to acetone. there are many names for it so im not sure if its in the above or not.by sungod3k - General
Start with the makerbot upgrade direct drive, i personally didn´t like it but I´ve seen it in use from a lot of people.by sungod3k - Reprappers
My time estimate from slicer models in pritnerface is consitently 33-50% of the real time.by sungod3k - Reprappers
Hi, I´m trying to understand the extruder mechanics better. At the moment I´m using a no reduction type with NEMA 17 motor with MK7 driver gear. Which is working fine until I noticed some regular spaced (every 1.5mm) gaps in my prints at higher speeds (>50mm/s). Every 1.5mm (the pitch of the threaded rod) and printing at 85mm/s I get one deteriorated perimeter which curls up, when I slow downby sungod3k - General
I cant explain it, other than the extruder working less efficient at high speed and then interacting with some z-rod error.by sungod3k - General
@jamesdanielv: your´re good! I slowed it down to 30% of the original speed for the perimeters and the gaps are gone. Could that mean that the extruder at high speeds isnt able to feed material fast enough? Is it maybe slipping at a certain speed? But then the gap spacing is still unexplained, the speed is always the same on the longer straight lines, the threaded rod must throw the bed violentlby sungod3k - General
try the imageshack link under the thumb thats the bigger picby sungod3k - General
When I touch the bed the rod and the two leadscrews stay pretty still. There is one upgrade I´m planning which would make the connection between the mount which holds the leadscrews and the undercarriage of the bed a bit stiffer, we´ll see if that changes something. The only explanation I can imagine so far is that the threaded rod either wedges itself somehow and relieves tension every rotatioby sungod3k - General
@ohmarinus: I´m relativly sure that the extruder works correctly and that there is no sliping. @brnrd: The biggest design flaw with the machine is that the bed is only hold on one side. It also gives a terrible side wobble when not used with proper acceleration settings. I also think that there is something with the z axis but i cant imagine how the vertical movement you mentioned earlier couldby sungod3k - General
@ohmarinus: how did the adhesion defects show up in the print?by sungod3k - General
I just did a test print with higher temp and 10% more extrusion and the gaps got a little shorter but the basic pattern is still there. There now more but shorter gaps. @brnrd: yes as far as I can measure it the gaps match the pitch. I´m looking into buying fine threaded rods but the nuts are very hard to find. Update: I just printed with smaller layerheight and the gap spacing is still the saby sungod3k - General
Interesting pointers, although if true wouldn´t they be more random? Anyway I´m gonna try that and report back.by sungod3k - General
Hi, I`ve been getting my printer under control lately and fixing most issues, but one is persistent. Every 5 layers or so the outside perimeter curls up and doesn't bond with the layer below but it only happens on longer straight part of the print. Around corners the stacking of the layer is normal. I have no idea how this can happen or where the plastic gets enough space to wiggle out of pby sungod3k - General
"About the only way to get rid of Z axis banding is to use it only for height and not for X or Y position" what do you mean by that. Aren´t the x and y axis mostly beltdriven anyway? and I noticed thats its not very straight but the wave is much smaller than the the noticeable bend. I would also assume that finethread is better produced than norm. do you have a shop where to find the expensiveby sungod3k - Reprappers
I already have a metal coupling with a flex part in the middle, but its not made for 5/16 its for M8. I taped electrical tape around the motor shaft to make it tighter but I still think that the coupling is not the problem. Whats you upgrade plan? and whats your anti backlash idea? a tigher rod/nut connection would make a good start, do you think?by sungod3k - Reprappers
My base model is the Eventorbot, where the bed is mounted frame on only one side. At the moment I´m using 5/16 inch threaded rod. You´re probably right with the weight letting everything rest securely in place, but the play between rod and nut could still allow some shifting from layer to layer. From what I read on the "wavy walls problem" this seems to be the most likely explanation. After I pby sungod3k - Reprappers
Hey, over the holidays I went to my local DIY store and tried to find replacements for the threaded rod of the Z axis. I had read somewhere that the metric M8 threaded rod and their respective half hex rivet nuts are better or tighter than the imperial ones we have in the standard kit. However the shopkeeper reminded my that there are fine thread threaded rods with a pitch of 0.75cm instead ofby sungod3k - Reprappers
The main question I still have while looking into building a recycle is how much the plastic deteriorates after the 1st use. If that is not a problem you could pass the ABS two times through the machine. The 2nd extrusion would then much smoother I assume.by sungod3k - General
it seems like the cable strand was the bad boy. I had taped them together and now that they are freed up I had a rather smooth temp curve. I route the thermistor cable a completely different way next time I open the frame completely. Thanks for the insight andreas Update: I bought shielded cable for thermistor today and now its perfect.by sungod3k - General
I put the motor and the fan cable out of the way and didnt have a complete failure so far and I saw some smooth pattern for some short while, but mainly i get a jump range of +-10C (plus one -40C jump for a second). The cables for the resistor and thermistor go through the same hose and I havent changed them since I build the machine, so im not sure how they are now interfering. On the other handby sungod3k - General
Its weird, my 1 hour test shows nothing out of the ordinary, but in print it starts getting weird. Im printing with Reptier now to shed some light on this. Is there a guide somewhere for PID control with sprinter? Update: As soon as I start printing the temp jumps again, and after some minutes is drops completely. I disabled the fan because it blows on the nozzle, that could explain the normaby sungod3k - General
Ill do a 1 hour test with repetier and take a look at it. In general are the thermistor physically reliable over long times?by sungod3k - General
I replaced the resistor and checked the wiring, its gotten better but I still have 10-20C drops. I also dont think its the PID control because it works fine in a range of +/- 1-2C for most of the time. Any other candidates I should check?by sungod3k - General
Yeah I just experienced a really big drop, the wiring is the prime suspect.by sungod3k - General
Hey, I worry a bit about my hotend temp jumping too much up and down. It should have a certain range correlated with the printspeed but I want to print a 185 but I´m getting reads from 157 to 196 which seems a bit much for my taste. Whats should and average temp range look like?by sungod3k - General
Hey, since I got a new stronger extruder motor the whole extruder construction is getting hotter. Yesterday I wanted to upgrade my filament guide to a spring loaded system but everything is to hot that it looses structural integrity. On my old motor I had a custom round heatsink and a small 5V fan, all I find now are heatsinks for the front of the motor (which is blocked by the filament guide)by sungod3k - General
Aha, how do you implement the bearing solution and how do you liberate the motor I mean it needs something to hold it down?by sungod3k - Printing