Show all posts by user

Re: External auqarium airpump for hotend cooling? - 5 years ago

I have the bondtec QR so that should not be an issue. Ill test bed adhesion with increased bed temp for the first layer instead of reduced fan. Having one source and a Y split hose would a neat setup though

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: External auqarium airpump for hotend cooling? - 5 years ago

Mainly PLA. I have a cold garage, so I only want 30-40C inside the chamber. Which now that you say it like this makes external cooling unnecessary because its still below the glass transition temp of pla. Although the material could still expand at those temps and increase the resistance in the cold zone. ABS might be more forgiving there. Yes the cold air would cool the chamber, but the bed he

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Filament homeproduction fails due to lack of good spooling? - 5 years ago

Being actually able to recycle prints would be a nice contribution to reduce plastic waste, but the issue of good spooling is still an issue with home production. 3-4 years ago I had a filastruder + filawinder. Which I never got working because the spooling was simply not working. Imho there needs to be a feedback loop between filament diameter and the spooling unit like it is done in industri

by sungod3k - green talk

Re: External auqarium airpump for hotend cooling? - 5 years ago

You're right, noise reduction is not necessarily a strength of these pumps. I read differing results about these pumps. Although I can imagine that aquarium pumps are somewhat optimized for noise. My primary concern is getting fresh air into a heated chamber and a pump like that seems like a cheap and practical way. Hooking up a 10$ pump and some tubing with a simple pwm controller and a conne

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: Any disadvantages of having a big speed difference between inner and outer perimeters? - 5 years ago

I dont see a disadvantage, but the relationship between speed and looks of the outer layer is probably not linear. So for the inner shells go as fast as possible. This is a science on its own and isnt talked about very much. Im hoping that CNC kitchen will do a test on that at some point but theoretically one could find that out with a micro scale and see at what print speed expected vs actua

by sungod3k - General

External auqarium airpump for hotend cooling? - 5 years ago

Hi, the loudest component on my printer is still the hotend fan and when I recently looked into the berd air for model cooling, I thought that the same could be done for hotend cooling as well. When I compare a 30x30x10 fan with a pump like this they have pretty much the same air throughput (60cfm vs 1,6lpm). I also checked for adaptors for this on thingiverse and there some implementations

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: Stepper Motor Torque Choosing Stepper Motors - 5 years ago

the duet wiki has an excellent article on motor choice and the reprap forum as well (but older)

by sungod3k - General

Re: Printing onto an uneven printbed (e.g. inside a wells plate) - 5 years ago

yes like you suggested i would tape you petri dish onto the bed and define a round print bed in you slicer that is 1-2cm smaller than the dish to avoid hotend crashes. you probably need to manually define you homing procedure on a cartesian machine or move you x/y endstops so that the head doesnt crash in to the dish walls when you home. although with a delta that would be easier. the wells pla

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: What type of conveyor material should i use?? - 5 years ago

I asked myself the same question at one point. Depending on how hightech that material is it could be a good general bed surface.

by sungod3k - General

Re: Open Source Mk3 ALU Round PCB heatbed - 5 years ago

Havent seen a round one, but if you want to build one yourself the square ones can be adapted. However the chinese silicone heaters are pretty solid imho.

by sungod3k - Delta Machines

Re: Hotend 3 in 1 - Rostock 301 - 5 years ago

Dont use those 3:1 hotend. Especially the cheap ones. Get a normal hotend working first. The mixing nozzles are way harder to work then mormal ones.

by sungod3k - Delta Machines

Re: Belts - Whats the best you can buy? - 5 years ago

Any updates? I saw that e3d has stocked gates belts now, but for 9mm gt2 the charge 1,5$ per 10cm, which is a bit insane when having 1m higher delta. Is there another brand for belts that lie somewhere in between?

by sungod3k - General

Re: Hydrochloric acid etched glass as printbed? - 5 years ago

The acid came up when i google glass etching together with sandblasting. Also frosted glass can be bought, but its also not that cheap. I wonder if one can belt sand a cheap mirror to get a consistently frosted effect. As for PEI, we have some non prusa printers in our local fablab and i cant speak to the quality of their PEI beds, but the surface seems quite fragile. I like the robustness of t

by sungod3k - General

Re: E-Bay Delta - 5 years ago

yes 2020 towers are too weak speaking from experience. and yes get a cartesian printer first and also every $ you save now, you spent later upgrading it.

by sungod3k - Delta Machines

Hydrochloric acid etched glass as printbed? - 5 years ago

Hi, bed adhesion is still a bit of an issue for my printer. At the moment I have this sandwich of a silicon heater, followed by a 5mm alu plate that also keeps the bottom of my delta together, followed by a mirror to keep everything straight and topped of with a non-magnetic flex plate. It works but the flex plate is starting lift the corners up when heated. So I looked at magnetic plates which

by sungod3k - General

Re: Limonene HIPS smoothing - 6 years ago

Have only tested some short bits and it works, however the polysmooth stuff works way better and doesnt require expensice lemonene, so if you do any serious work id say it cheaper to throw together a little vaporization box and use polysmooth.

by sungod3k - General

Re: Lost wax casting prints - 7 years ago

I recently considered mold-lay for a jewelry job. If it works as advertised then that should solve your issue. However I think if you have a mold that fits inside your foundry any plastic will burn out relatively cleanly at aluminum temps.

by sungod3k - General

Re: How do you tighten the E3D M7 heat barrier? - 7 years ago

You can use two flat m6 nuts and screw them on the heatblock part and tightem them. That gives you an attack point for a wrench to screw into the heat sink. However usually when I switch nozzles and I feel the heat sink coming loose I grab the heatblock and screw it into the heatsink and so far not broken any heatbreaks

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: Small nozzle printing best practises - 7 years ago

Retraction: I turned it on again to 0.5mm and at least with PLA that's really necessary because any amount of stringing will kill the model because its impossible to remove. Reprimeing i will test though. Cooling: I have a good 360 cooling duct and i cranked it up to 80% which makes it better. The "two models 5cm apart method" seems to work best so far. Extruder: Yes, i use a bondtec with 5:1

by sungod3k - General

Small nozzle printing best practises - 7 years ago

Hi, I recently bough a .25 and a .15 nozzle for some jewelry prints. I have a bondtec extruder so I didnt have any big issues with the .25 nozzle. I dropped the speed down to 30mms and got some decent prints out. However with the .15 I noticed two things: First the cooling. The heat really concentrates in small models and I have to have at least to models on the bed at the same time so allow s

by sungod3k - General

Clear cheap resin for print coating on ali? - 7 years ago

Hi, I friend of mine showed my some interesting experiments with metal pigments mixed with wood glue applied to print to get some sort of metallic look for little figurines. That got me thinking about mixing the same pigments with clear resin/epoxy. I looked around on ali but surprisingly the keywords "clear, resin, casting, alumilite epoxy" show only casting molds, resin blanks for nail art a

by sungod3k - General

Re: Noctua hotend fan not cooling enough? - 7 years ago

What design are you using? and if you cool the throat as well doesnt that blow too much heat away from the upper side of the heatblock?

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Noctua hotend fan not cooling enough? - 7 years ago

Hi, I think i have to revise my succes report from this thread about the noctua fan being able to cool adequatly. I started noticing some random blockages/extruder clicking while printing pla and the tried to feel the airflow behind the heatsink and if I remember correctly the airflow of the stock fan was much higher. I also pointed my infra red thermometer onto the heatsink and it read 110C,

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Polysmooth without polysher V3 - 7 years ago

I finally got all the parts together and so far it looks very promising. I made a testprint and sprayed it with ethanol which didnt work and just left a white residue. However submerging the part completely for 10 min gave a good result. On the top I could still see some layerlines but the walls got smoothed out completely, which looks very good the only thing it that the part is super shiny.

by sungod3k - General

Re: Quieter hotend cooling fans? - 7 years ago

I also considered once running both hotend and model cooling from two radian fans that would have been mounted above the carriage and pushed the air via hoses. What stopped me was the fact that even the radial fans are still quite loud even when they dont have the high peak loudness of the axial onnes. That said, I was looking for high quality radial fans to also quiet down the model cooling bu

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: Quieter hotend cooling fans? - 7 years ago

Toms 3d just released a QnA with e3d and here theyre talking about the 40mm fan https://youtu.be/7VudIDiXQaI?t=33m14s

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: Quieter hotend cooling fans? - 7 years ago

I found this on the e3d wiki: QuoteThe use of the supplied 30mm fan and duct is highly recommended, the supplied fan has adequate airflow (4-5 CFM) and the duct is specifically designed to aim that airflow at the fins of the heatsink. The noctua fan I was talking about has has "Airflow 8,2 m³/h" If I calculate that correctly Amount : 5 cubic feet per minute (cu ft/min of flow rate) Equals :

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: Quieter hotend cooling fans? - 7 years ago

Yeah, I saw some higher quality fans and there is a Noctua 40mm 12V for 12€ on amazon. Now the question only is how much noise they really reduce. I just measured with my phone and i get 40dcb, while noctua promises 17, that would actually be quiet good. I also asked on the e3d forum about air flow volume, lets see if its comaprable.

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Quieter hotend cooling fans? - 7 years ago

Hi, I recently managed to make my motors almost completly quiet. Now the loudest part is the hotend cooling fan. I had played around with a 50mm fan and an adaptor that I regulated down to ca. 60% max speed with a small voltage regulator. That worked well and I never had issues with cooling but it still wasnt as quiet as I hoped. Now hearing that the prusa mk3 is using brand noctua fans I tho

by sungod3k - Reprappers

Re: Lebensmittel dehydrator zum Filament trocknen - 7 years ago

Ne, aber man kann son eine kuchen/käse glocke kaufen und die auf das teil draufsetzen. Ich werd aber wahrscheinlich eine passe hülle drucken so das ich 2-3 spulen auf einmal trocken kann. Ich hab nur noch keinen direkten bericht gefunden wo jemand mal getestet hat wie sich das selbst getrocknete filament verhält und ob das zb gleichmäßig durch trocknet.

by sungod3k - Allgemeines