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Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

This approach was not good. During demolding the silicone sock split. Up to plan 'C'...

by chriske - Printing

Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

Red Sock not usable, silicone can not withstand that temperature. So I bought another brand : Silicone-HT. With this new silicone I can go up to 250°C and peak to 350°C. In the picture : The one on the left(red) is the old one, right(purple, still in the mold) is the new one. The mold itself is printed in PETG

by chriske - Printing

Re: E3D and PETG - 6 years ago

You'l need to find the correct combination. That could take a while printing with PETG. Retraction is a very important issue. I would lower temp a bit. You need more retraction and indeed no fast printing. Another possibility is changing brand. I had the same problem a long time ago, changed brand, problem gone... PETG nozzle 0.4 I always use all metal hotends. print temp 240°C Bed 75°C retracti

by chriske - Printing

Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

Also made a silicone sock for my large heaterblock. Wanted to make a red one, but it turned out to be pink... A few snapshots of the procedure.

by chriske - Printing

Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

BIG nozzle for that hotend. Length of that 2.0mm nozzle is a whopping 33mm. Length of that new heatblock is 30mm. The file is called Volcano, but it's actually not a Volcano at all. It is a heatblock of own design. So I called it S-Volcano ('S' stands for 'super')..;-) Two systems will be tested. One is a air-cooled(my own) I'll be using a 75mm radial fan and another system with that same heatblo

by chriske - Printing

Re: Bulges where perimeters start/stop - 6 years ago

Do not test with 10mm cubes, It's very bad test, it's way to small, it's no reference to what your printer can do. Test with larger parts say 50x50mm cubes first or even larger. Smaller parts like these 10x0mm cubes need somewhat other settings.

by chriske - Printing

Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

Never mentioned leaking problems... And the expression 'one step at the time' is one I never use... At the same time while planning on building that new 300x300 printer(own design), I'm busy designing a fast interchangeable filament system. Purpose is to switch very fast from a 1.75mm filament system to a 2.85mm filament system. Almost done now. (Will probably print my renewed XY-carriage today

by chriske - Printing

Re: Z/Layer Skipping & Gcode Repeating; High Speed Printing - 6 years ago

Although there's nothing wrong printing with Windows, I'd give it a t try myself. Problem is I do not know where to start, never used Linux..! But that's another problem, sorry for OT message. Back to topic... A common mistake is to use very long USB cables. I always use properly shielded and very short USB cables. Had lots of trouble with longer cables in the past. And indeed as in that last r

by chriske - Printing

Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

Overview of my new hotend, - longer heatblock(longer than a Volcano) - two heaters 40W cartridges(RAMPS can not handle these two, so I'll have to find another solution, external FET maybe) - much longer brass nozzle(even longer than a Volcano nozzle) - longer heatbreak - higher recess in that heatbreak(better cooling of that recess) - an extra heatsink(just above the heaterblok) to better split

by chriske - Printing

Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

I'll have problems enough already printing with a 2mm nozzle with 1.75mm filament..! So I'll first try a 2mm nozzle first(not yet done). I'm thinking of installing additional fan(s) blowing very softly over the surface of the bed / nozzle height. Together with the parts cooling fan it could improve things, getting rid of that heat a bit faster at nozzle height. It'll be a search to find that exac

by chriske - Printing

Re: Z/Layer Skipping & Gcode Repeating; High Speed Printing - 6 years ago

That's a very odd one... -I'd say temporary data loss, due to memory failure. -PCB's / drivers gone to hot. First thing I would try is print a bit slower. Second thing I'd try is swapping computer. While printing do not multitask. In the past I had very strange behaviour of my printer due to multitasking. It disappeared completely when I left that PC alone. One of the things I always do these da

by chriske - Printing

Re: Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

Think so too, that's why I'm a bit concerned about the partscooling myself as I already mentioned in my first post. But on the other hand, I'm not planning to print small parts with it, so doing the problem is partially solved...;-) Could try printing chocolat too one day.... THAT would be challenge, isn't it...?

by chriske - Printing

Big nozzle - fast printing - 6 years ago

Latest project I'm working on this very moment is to make a Vocano-isch hotend to print with big nozzles. Goal is to print at the same (fast)speed just the same as I do with all my other nozzles, keeping in mind that the perimeter's high quality should remain(as with my smaller nozzles). Right now I can print up to 55mm/s with a Vulcano(clone) and a1.5mm nozzle. I know, layers with these big noz

by chriske - Printing

Re: Bulges where perimeters start/stop - 6 years ago

If it occurs only during 'Spiral vase modus' than it is a slicer problem.(one perimeter print) I had just the same problem during printing with my bigger nozzles, 1.2 and 1.5mm. Only the effect was way bigger with mine part. During regular printing this 'problem' does not occur at all. See the last movie about that bulging in my 'Volcano' thread, you'll recognise it.

by chriske - Printing

Re: Replacing the part fan causes stringing and artifacts? - 6 years ago

Still, 1.8mm ID is not a good idea at all. Saying 'E3D should know...' Is a bit short-sighted imo. (no offence meant here..!) In another thread I told about that silicone socks failure, I've even sent E3D a letter about it, how I changed these socks my way. It was only a minor correction but resulting in good results. The only reply from them was 'Good for you it worked out '. Months later they

by chriske - Printing

Re: Bulges where perimeters start/stop - 6 years ago

Did you measure the wall thickness of that single-walled calibration cube...? If it is thicker than the diameter of your nozzle you should tweek the extrusion multiplier.

by chriske - Printing

Re: PLA first layer problem: warp-droplets - 6 years ago

A year ago I sent a mail to E3D about the problems I've had with these silicone socks. I even told them what I did with these socks : Were the brass nozzle sticks out I enlarged that hole to about 12mm(1/2"). Problem solved. Last week I ordered a new set of these socks and guess what : the nozzle hole of the new batch silicone socks have much larger holes now. I was probably not the only one hav

by chriske - Printing

Re: Bulges where perimeters start/stop - 6 years ago

Is this happening on all 4 corners or just 1..?

by chriske - Printing

Re: Replacing the part fan causes stringing and artifacts? - 6 years ago

Quoteo_lampe 1.8mm ID PTFE tube from E3D I always use 2mm ID no problem. 1.8mm is to narrow to allow 1.75mm filament to pass fluently.

by chriske - Printing

Re: Replacing the part fan causes stringing and artifacts? - 6 years ago

Quoteo_lampe Can too much part cooling ruin a print? Only if you go to the extreme.

by chriske - Printing

Re: I'm not getting good print quality when increasing speed. - 6 years ago

Depending on your hotend type, 200°C could be to low. In the past I printed at 195°C using a peek hotend. I set mine now at 215° using a E3D(clone) and a 0.4 nozzle, Using a 1.0mm nozzle I print at 245°C ( both PLA!) Did you receive a slicer settings file from one of the forum members yet..? It should give you a good start.

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

Why that strange pattern at the corners..? The lift at the 'corners' of that testcube in the movie is a normal phenomenon. The reason I discovered it only now is because my pal Guy was intrigued too and performed a simulation with a regular nozzle, say 0.35 or 0.4mm. The result is exactly the same only on a smaller scale, hardly visible. To perform a Spiral Vase test I always quickly draw a re

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

Good to know, I'll inform my pals. Although it crashes regularly also they still use Slic3r. Thanks for the info...!

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

Forgot to mention : layer height a whopping 1.2mm..!

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 1.5mm nozzle - 6 years ago

First test with a 1.5 mm nozzle this time. Perimeter looks very good in fact almost perfect. Except that the 'Z' axis does not move in a continuous motion like it always does like in all my previous 'Spiral Vase' tests. Very strange. This behavior result in a rather strange regular pattern at the corners of this testobject. Very first test is done at 55mm/s but that did not went well. So I had to

by chriske - Printing

Re: PETG - 6 years ago

If you have loops during extruding in the air, there's something in the way. Be it a particle or burrs, you must remove it.

by chriske - Printing

Re: I'm not getting good print quality when increasing speed. - 6 years ago

Quotekd6hq From what I've read PETG seems to need to be a little slower than PLA, but of course you get a better part (depending on your view point). I'll find out myself how fast I can go...

by chriske - Printing

Re: I'm not getting good print quality when increasing speed. - 6 years ago

Prusa Slic3r is a very good one. So is Simplify 3D.(I think S3D is the best).

by chriske - Printing

Re: I'm not getting good print quality when increasing speed. - 6 years ago

Best is someone could export and send you a slicer file. I would, but I do not use Slic3r. Import and adjust for your printer. It would start you up very quickly. See what happens. Depending on the printer you're using you should be able to print at 75 to 90mm/s(PLA) Don't know yet with PETG, busy testing. This very moment busy @ 60mm/s. Looking good.

by chriske - Printing

Re: PETG - 6 years ago

I'd say start using socks(on the printer that is..) It's a BIG difference, you'll see... You also mentioned filament sticking to the nozzle. Check that nozzle, clean it. Or maybe there a small burr somewhere in/or at the nozzle... somewhere... Manual feeding the nozzle should always result in dropping the filament straight down. If not the nozzle is not clean or not free of burrs.

by chriske - Printing