Show all posts by user

Re: PETG - 6 years ago

Very strange story. I'm busy printing a PETG part this very moment, no problems at all. Nozzle0.4, temp75/245°C Speed:55mm/s Layers0.2mm retraction:1.5mm 1stLayer no cooling other layers:minimum cooling Bed:3DLac. ExtrMult:0.92 I use silicone socks to 'cover' the heaterblock. Those silicone socks, I wouldn't print without them at all. What's the nozzle's diameter you're using and wha

by chriske - Printing

Re: I'm not getting good print quality when increasing speed. - 6 years ago

That is coincidence, 'Spiral Vase' printing has nothing to do with that shutting down of both the heaters. You should first find out what causes that shutting down. These are only a few guesses : You have reached the max temp according to the settings in the firmware. So the mainboard is powering down the heaters. But both at the same time is not likely to happen. Or maybe, just maybe, one of th

by chriske - Printing

Re: I'm not getting good print quality when increasing speed. - 6 years ago

Forgot, during Vase Test slicing switch of top layers..!

by chriske - Printing

Re: I'm not getting good print quality when increasing speed. - 6 years ago

Well, that's one of the most important test you should perform on a printer before even start to print with it..! Don't know were to find it in Slic3r, ....can someone help here please..? Point is that this test will see to it that the width of a perimeter(single strand) is correct(or not). Draw a cube, print it 'Vase Modus' and measure the thickness of the walls of that single perimeter cube a

by chriske - Printing

Re: I'm not getting good print quality when increasing speed. - 6 years ago

Did you measure the thickness of the walls after 'Vase mode'..? What is its value..?

by chriske - Printing

Re: A painfull print - 6 years ago

Quotethe_digital_dentist You used a heatsink to "calibrate" Z? You need to do two things: set the Z=0 position and set steps/mm. Put a piece of paper under the nozzle and lower the extruder until it just grabs the paper. Set Z=0. Now print a part that's exactly 100 mm tall, and measure it. Use that to set steps/mm. He could do a 'Vase Mode' test at the same time. So he knows also about it's

by chriske - Printing

Re: Print moves mid print when printing large objects - 6 years ago

Quoteo_lampe There are many reasons for "skipped steps" which is the term you should start searching with. Two reasons, which are the most popular: Stepper current to low => adjust Vref Over-Extrusion causes the nozzle to bump into the print => calibrate e-steps Correct, and one more reason that frequently occurs. Printing vertical holes. When the printer is busy printing the uppermost pa

by chriske - Printing

Re: PETG - 6 years ago

First do a 'Vase mode' test to see if extrusion is ok. 'Extrusion Multiplier' setting is completely different compared to PLA or ABS. And indeed squeezing the first layer PETG onto the bed is not a good idea at all..! It should be gently 'rolled' on the bed(like o_lampe mentioned higher up). iow the nozzle should be set higher compared with PLA or ABS. I first thought too that would result in not

by chriske - Printing

Re: ABS print stopped in the middle!>*#? HELP - 6 years ago

Hard to tell indeed. This is my version. I see lots of loose strands. The first cm all was ok then parts got bumped off. So my guess : layerheight to high(in combination with curled corners)

by chriske - Printing

Re: ABS Warping is making me crazy. - 6 years ago

Never worked with ABS, read tons of messages about that ABS warping problem. A solution for that problem could be printing a brim 2 or even more layers + a skirt the same height as the part itself. Meaning you would make your own little enclosure around the object while printing. So doing the part will stay warm(er) as it should. Worth to try...??

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

Etching or maybe sputtering...??

by chriske - Printing

Re: PETG printing surface - 6 years ago

Absolutely correct...!... QuoteJustSumGuy I found that PETG requires a completely different way of approach for the first layer. With ABS you squish it in, that's for sure, you also squish PLA but a bit less than ABS... With PETG, almost NONE, LIKE NO SQUISH. I print on PEI sheet and I use a fairly hot first layer and have the tip high enough to just lay it on the bed. My first layer temp is

by chriske - Printing

Re: ABS Warping is making me crazy. - 6 years ago

I often use PETG on glass surface + 3D-Lac. No warping. Some brands do have more stringing than others. My pal prints ABS(for four years now) and has warping on all his parts, but he don't mind. To me warping is absolutely unacceptable, so no ABS for me.

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

It crossed my mind also. But it is rather difficult to make, four small holes very near. But what I surely will test is this one: The one with that 2mm nozzle. [3dsolex.com] That company claims that this 2.0mm nozzle can be used with 1.75mm filament. Well, I doubt it if this particular one is feasible with a 2mm nozzle. The body of the nozzle itself is to short imo. Or you should go VERY slow, a

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

Find the differences ...?... First one is printed with 1mm nozzle, 0.8mm layer, temp 240° speed:55mm/s Time : 16min second is printed with 0.4mm nozzle 0.2mm layer, temp 225° speed:80mm/s Time : 1h52min Time to make me a hotend with a even larger nozzle...

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

A larger nozzle will not work in a classic (V6) heatblock, even with a higher higher wattage heater. I have used a 0.7mm nozzle in a V6 block but had to reduce speed to allow a smooth print or raise temperature for smooth perimeter. I like to print very fast, so my solution was raising temp. That problem is solved using a Volcano heater block. That block is higher and the heater cartridge itself

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

First test : Volcano + nozzle 1.0mm

by chriske - Printing

Re: Volcano - 6 years ago

I already used a 0.7mm on a V6 block, gave me excellent prints, spotless perimeters. Only problem was I could not exceed 75mm/s speed with that 0.7 nozzle. To do that 75mm/s I had to print PLA at 245°C(I know to high, but it works). I hope to go even faster with these large nozzles in a volcano and drop temp again.

by chriske - Printing

Volcano - 6 years ago

Hi, Just made a Volcano with a 1.0mm nozzle. All metal parts selfmade, nozzle included. All is ready to make Volcano's with even larger nozzles. Planning to go as large as 1.5mm and if possible I'll make make me a Volcano with a 2mm nozzle. When the parts cooling funnel is ready I'll print a 'Spiral Vase' testcube with the Vocano to find out about settings for that 1.0mm nozzle Anyone using larg

by chriske - Printing