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Re: Best 3d printer to make from scratch - 7 years ago

QuotePolygonhell I don't often comment on these threads, but my 2c, on Cartesian designs, I've built hbot, core xy, ultimaker and more conventional gantries, and I'd pick the ultimaker design for a new build. Both Hbot and Core XY designs require a high degree of rigidity in the frame and high quality bearings to perform well IME, conversely it's hard to build a working ultimaker gantry that does

by chriske - General

Re: Changing % Infill while the printer is printing. - 7 years ago

I've been told you can change infill during slicing. Simplify3D allows your part to print with say 40% and later on(higher up your part) the infill% can be set to any another value.

by chriske - General

Re: Best 3d printer to make from scratch - 7 years ago

Quotenewbob Quotechriske Quotenewbob I would not dismiss delta design too quickly. As far as I am aware only delta and light weight corexy printers can print at over 100mm/s with decent quality. Not a Delta but mine(own design) can print also with that speed and even faster and with a very high perimeter quality. The printer in the image is a prototype and works perfect. Busy making a larger

by chriske - General

Re: Best 3d printer to make from scratch - 7 years ago

Quotecwaa You are using rods and plastic corners. Not the best technology. Yep works perfect, I printed these parts in PETG. Very sturdy material...!

by chriske - General

Re: Thingiverse Alternative poll on Reddit - 7 years ago

Erased all my (almost 60)files from the Thingiverse servers a few days ago. I've had it with cookie cutters, fidget spinners, phone stands, political rubbish, and most of all parts that can't be printed at all... What I'm looking for is a site hosting more serious technical projects. But I'm afraid I will not find such a site. Proliferation has already struck hard the 3D-community.

by chriske - General

Re: Best 3d printer to make from scratch - 7 years ago

Quotenewbob I would not dismiss delta design too quickly. As far as I am aware only delta and light weight corexy printers can print at over 100mm/s with decent quality. Not a Delta but mine(own design) can print also with that speed and even faster and with a very high perimeter quality. The printer in the image is a prototype and works perfect. Busy making a larger version this very moment

by chriske - General

Sunheat - 'stretchtesting' ..and the winner is.... - 7 years ago

Hanging in the sun for many days during a heatwave in our country. Rings are hollow, thickness of the material only 0.5mm across. Outer diameter of the rings 150mm(6") There's a load of 1 liter bottle filled with water hanging on each ring. Materials -from left to right- black XT, bleu nGen, black PLA, white PLA. Only white PLA withstand this kind of heat. It only sags just a little bit during t

by chriske - General

E3D Silicone socks - 7 years ago

Hi, These bleu socks are a great asset to the E3D extruder unit, only they do not stay in place. After a while I always have to push them back in place. Even when they're new these socks do not fit perfectly around the heatblock. This is what I did to deal with the problem. Two extra holes, tapped M2, a washer, done... Chris

by chriske - Printing

Re: Printer not making holes with good dimensions - 7 years ago

QuoteFloyd Change the hole size and print again. Its a known issue that holes are always undersized indeed...!

by chriske - Printing

Deformation test - 7 years ago

I was wondering what material will deform less when exposed to the sun's heat. The rings in the picture measure 155/165mm(6") diameter and 10mm high. They are hollow, the walls are just 0.8mm thick. Weight 14g. They hung in the bare sun for about 6 hours. (temp today in the shade 22°C). All the time one side was exposed to the sun. Two rings were printed in PLA, one black, one withe. A third was

by chriske - Printing

Round perimeter - 7 years ago

Hi, I have perfect perimeters, but printing circular objects the perimeter is not round. It has flats. How do I make these flats smaller(shorter) so the perimeter looks closer to a circle instead of a X-sided 'circle'....?

by chriske - Printing

Helicopter 'Apache' - 7 years ago

Hi, This one is for the kids...although... To have this chopper working I needed six ball-bearings 3x7x2.5.. I also needed a smooth rod 3mm diameter, 4 batterie-holders, and a switch. 2 rubber bands. Also 2 small gears. Electromotor runs on 1.5 to 4.5 volt. I have it running at 3V, which gives me about 800rpm for the main rotor. Batteries used are 1.5 AA size. All bolts and nuts are M3.

by chriske - Look what I made!

Re: Shift problem using XT - 7 years ago

Oops...! That should have been Y instead of Z of course.... The second post I mentioned bedshifting, it should have been clear I made a mistake. Sooorryyy...

by chriske - Printing

Re: Shift problem using XT - 7 years ago

Meanwhile already change 10 times filament. Meaning alternately same object printed 5 times with PLA and 5 times using XT. Every single time bed-shifting when printing with XT filament. NO problem with PLA at all.

by chriske - Printing

Shift problem using XT - 7 years ago

Hi guys, This is a weird one... Same printer, same settings. Differences : Material PLA printed at 215/60. The other material is XT printed at 260/75 Using PLA there is no problem at all, prints up to 9 hours. Beautiful prints, very nice and flat perimeter with no issues(ripples) at all. Every time again. Using XT : Prints nice to but suddenly shifting in Z direction every time again. No parti

by chriske - Printing

Re: Ulti Printer - 7 years ago

Hi, There was a problem during slicing. A very thin 'wall' part of the print did not appear in the preview. I lowered the 'Extrusion width' to 0.40 (instead of 0.45) and problem is solved. There was a small perimeter error at the start of the bridging higher up. This will be solved by greasing the Z-axis. The thinnest of the 3 standing rods measure only a whopping 0.78mm(0.03"). Although it ben

by chriske - Look what I made!

Ulti Printer - 7 years ago

Hi, Purpose is to replace my two old i2 reprap printers by two of own design. I think it is about time to give them a long and well deserved rest after almost 4 years of continuous printing. So retirement is imminent... They served me VERY well. (see ) Over the years all these projects are done with these two old i2's, so I can't complain at all...can I..? The first of these two replacements (U

by chriske - Look what I made!

Re: Extreme shift in layers - 7 years ago

Quoteadenton Thank you for that info by "Vref" I am assuming you mean the voltage of the stepper driver. Last time I checked, my x-axis stepper driver was at 0.424 V which doesn't seem to be too high from what I've read online. Any additional suggestions? In my case Vref is set to 0.35V for regular pololus and 1.1V for TMC2100 and I also use a fan to cool the drivers. Both steppers en drivers

by chriske - Printing

Re: Holes too small. - 7 years ago

I always print the holes in parts 0.3mm to small, afterward I use a reamer(not a drillbit) to make these holes perfectly to size. This procedure has a few reasons. All burrs and starting point(from the nozzle) at the inner perimeter of vertical holes are removed, you get a clean hole. The holes get perfectly round again so the holes will fit perfectly around the rods or bearings. Using a reamer

by chriske - Printing

Re: Print quality - 8 years ago

So using a direct drive would make a difference...

by chriske - Printing

Print quality - 8 years ago

Hi, Would there be a difference in perimeter-quality only changing from a 3 mm filament to 1.75 mm...? Thanks. Chris

by chriske - Printing

Re: ABS fumes and best cases to handle them? - 8 years ago

Quotedave3d I find there is a big variability in ABS filaments. I print in a spare back bedroom in my house and some filaments have a strong smell and make my eyes sting. There must be nano particles or vapours (maybe the same thing) being given off. Also the hot end and nozzle slowly gets coated with a carbonised black film even where it has no actual physical contact with the filament. This pro

by chriske - Reprappers

perimeter problem - 8 years ago

Someone seen this before....? Print is rather well and sudden it starts to print very odd. These two parts are printed on two different printers(same type, reprap) One is printed with a 0.5 nozzle and .38 layer, the other was done using a .35 nozzle and .24 layer. All is done in PLA. Had no problem before. Second problem I have is that vertical ripple, best seen in the right part.

by chriske - Printing

Re: E3D : 3/1.75 mm - 8 years ago

Thanks, But why not drill all the way trough the sink diameter 2mm instead of using a PTFE guiding tube in that sink...? Chris

by chriske - General

E3D : 3/1.75 mm - 8 years ago

Hi, I was looking for info on E3D hotend hardware. Looking at the drawings (http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation) -scroll down to see PDF files- you'll see that the hole in the cooling body(sink) for a 3mm filament is 3.2 mm in diameter(like it should) Looking at the drawing of the sink for 1.75mm filament the guiding-hole in that part is 4.2mm in diameter. Why is that...? Shoul

by chriske - General

Re: Building a Prusa Mendel i2 instead of an i3 - 8 years ago

I have two i2 machines. Works just fine. In the X-direction it indeed is a bit wobbly, but securing the Z-axis firmly to the wall it will produce prints with the same high quality as any other good reprap. As a matter of fact I redesigned and made two i2 printers that can handle 250mm high prints. This what I made so far with these two i2's : Chris

by chriske - Reprappers

Re: What is happening to my corners? - 8 years ago

Hey, Printing small (single)objects will always cause problems. I had the same problem, cooling the part will solve that problem, although not for very small objects. And btw I also print at a high speeds. I fall asleep printing at 30 or 50 mm/s... Chris

by chriske - Printing

Re: pE3D - 8 years ago

Hi, The stainless steel heatbreak did the trick, all works well. Compared to a peek nozzle I have to raise the heater's temperature quit a bit. To connect nozzle and heatbreak I use a T-nut. This time I turned the T-nut the other way around so the flat side is pointing downward, almost touching the nozzle. I would expect that flat side works as a barrier for the cold air coming from the fan. C

by chriske - General

pE3D - 8 years ago

Hi, Busy making my own hotends. I make them myself because I need about six heaters. If I want on all of these heaters a E3D hotend... about 50€ for one E3D...do the math. My old peek nozzles will be used to be installed on my pE3D's, that's why the 'p'. So first thing I had to do is remove the FM8x1 thread on the peek's nozzle's and replace it with a standard M6 thread. First test was made usi

by chriske - General

Hobbed bolt making - 8 years ago

Hi, Had some problems with commercial bolts. Very often filament got stuck in the extruder. To be clear had no problems before using black colored bolts(fosfate plated). I make these bolts myself these days. Just mounted a new bolt with very sharp teeth seems to work fine. Question : is there information about the 'teeth' of these bolts. Meaning how sharp should these teeth be made..? I'm not t

by chriske - Printing