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Voor alles wat niet in de andere groepen past. Ook voor beginners die niet weten waar hun vraag thuis hoort, post hem hier.
Re: Precise and durable Tungsten Nozzle - 8 years ago
Quotelhartmann How long does a brass nozzle usually lasts? I've got my printer running every now and then for about two years now, and I'm still in my first nozzle... Mine three years, first brass nozzle still ok. And my printers work every single day for at least a few hours, sometimes 15+ hours. Between parts I don't even wait to cool down. I replace the sheet of glass and restart printing imby chriske - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Perfect prints..? - 8 years ago
Hi, So far we made lots of different printers and different configurations and are very pleased whit the result. Nice prints, but... not absolutely perfect prints. There are always some minor errors on the perimeter(s), Not many, not deep, or very bad, just visible. So we were asking ourself, is there someone out there producing perfect perimeters around his prints. Question : Who makes absoluby chriske - Printing
Re: cooling a print - 8 years ago
We've tested blowing from two sides and also blowing around the nozzle to cool the parts. Around is best. Take care not blowing to the nozzle itself.by chriske - Printing
Re: do you cool or heat a pla print? - 8 years ago
Quoteelkoreas sorry but what temperatura and speed work better for PLA, i cant print with a good quality, for this model i use layer h. .3mm, extruder for the first layer at 230 °C an for the rest at 210 °C and the speed for perimeters 40, infill 60, what do you suggest Well, I would aim for quality first, before speeding up things. Nobody can give you a correct figure on that. Print temperatureby chriske - Printing
Re: Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I designed an adjustable bearing block for Thomson super 8 1/2" linear bearings. You might easily adapt the design for this application. You can find it here: Nice one... Gonna try it. But I think it will flatten the printed bearing.by chriske - Printing
Re: Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
QuoteDownunder35m I just say it again: BBQ liner Could you explain please what a 'BBQ liner' is.by chriske - Printing
Re: Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
To avoid tension and deformation during fastening the printed bearing in place, maybe it first could be pressed in a holder. Kind of a bearingblock, not to large, just large enough to put some small screws in it. Additional advantage is the bearing block can be adjusted just a little bit. PLA is very hard and stiff, that would do the job imo.by chriske - Printing
Re: Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
QuoteSrek QuoteDownunder35m Hmmm, are we talking about some new high tech filament I missed? Maybe you did. The Iglidur mentioned in the title is the material Igus uses for their bushings, it is available as filament. I did some succesfull tests to use it for printed bushings. There is only one drawback. In the reprap (and some other)printers bearings are often 'locked down' with tie-wraps. Theby chriske - Printing
Re: Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
QuoteDownunder35m If you really beef everything up then you should not take shortcuts with printed bushings and bearings. For real precision you simply need steel and not plastic. Sure it is fun and it will work for a while if you are lucky but in the long run you will constantly adjust and calibrate for the problems caused by the printed bearings. Check an old laser printer or a really old inkjeby chriske - Printing
Re: Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Have you considered linear guides? You won't find better bearings, and fully supported rails are much less flexible than end supported rails. As a matter of fact, I was busy drawing this type of bearing. Not exactly the same but about. At the same time I would use 12 mm(or even thicker) smooth rods instead of 8 mm in the setup I'm using now. Around these thick rods andby chriske - Printing
Re: do you cool or heat a pla print? - 8 years ago
Same printer, same settings, same PLA : with and without cooling. Up to you guys to find out which is which... Chrisby chriske - Printing
Re: Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Have you ever calibrated the printer? Have you ever checked orthogonality of the axes? You calibrate by printing an object of specific dimensions then measure the object and make corrections to the steps per mm settings. Check orthogonality by printing a square or rectangular object and measure it's diagonals. If they are the same the axes are orthogonal, if not, theby chriske - Printing
Re: Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
Hi Srek, Is not working, a reamer is to small. I drilled the hole a little larger, 8.1 mm instead of 8.0 mm and it works perfect, even a better fit compared to the metal linear bearings. The only solution to make(print) perfect bearings is print smaller holes and larger outer perimeters. Afterward adjust the two diameters with a drill and then in a lathe the outer diameter. Still don't understanby chriske - Printing
Iglidur bearings - 8 years ago
Hi, Anyone out there tried to print his/here own bearings..? Can't seem to get it right. I've tried but the bearings are not perfectly round. A small error remains, about 0.1 to 0.17mm off roundness. Checked everything, also whether X and Y are perfectly 90°. (RepRap printer - very sturdy) Tips..? Chrisby chriske - Printing
Re: do you cool or heat a pla print? - 8 years ago
Hi, This is what I did. I had to go for this solution because of a problematic part that always started to curl around the nozzle. Fan : 80mmby chriske - Printing
Re: Slic3r retration tweak - any ideas? - 8 years ago
Hi, In my case Slic3er is set to 1mm retraction. After the skirt is done, just at the very start of the part, the extruder produces a large blob on the glassplate and then continues to work on the perimeter. Then when the well made perimeter is finished, at the start of the infill it seems that there is not enough material to make a correct fill. Only for a few mm the infill is to thin. After thaby chriske - Printing
Re: Corner curling - 8 years ago
Degrease that sheet of glass with glass cleaner, rinse with lots of water under the tap and dry with a piece of paper, NOT a towel or something that has been in the laundry machine. Bed temp should be 60°C and after a few layers I lower it manually to 50°C.by chriske - Printing
Re: Solid perimeter - 9 years ago
Thanks for the reply. Still, I always add inches and foots when I feel there's need for it to our imperial thinking friends. It's kind of an old habit to do so from visits on astronomical and also 'mechanical engineering' forums(where imperial values rules). Like you said James, flexible thinking... Chris(Belgium)by chriske - Printing
Solid perimeter - 9 years ago
Hi, I'm trying to print containers(100x50x50mm - 4"x2"x2") with solid walls. The walls of these containers are only 1.5mm thick(about 1/16"). Purpose is to print a solid wall of that thickness but without infill pattern. Whatever setting I try to change Slicer will add a infill.(Tried different Slicer settings.) The problem with infills that wide is that the extruder body shivers violently durinby chriske - Printing
Re: 10" f/5.8 Dobsonian telescope - 9 years ago
QuoteJamesK Wow, that's seriously impressive. Thanks..! But what you don't see is all the work of our electronics guru(Guy), The man on the right side in the picture. When I drew this project I did not want to see any wiring around the scope. So I drew most of the printed parts with 'canals' in them. iow all electric wiring is tucked away, a nightmare to draw but most of all to assemble.by chriske - Look what I made!
Re: 10" f/5.8 Dobsonian telescope - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Can you use the scope while the fans are running, or do you have to turn them off? Nope, I turn them off. Some observers keep them running at a very low rpm.by chriske - Look what I made!
Re: 10" f/5.8 Dobsonian telescope - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Very nice! Is there a sock that fits over the tube to prevent people from putting their hands on the mirror? Are the fan there to prevent condensation from forming on the mirror? Nope, there's no protection against 'greasy' hands..;-) There's no need because, except during open door, there's only me and occasional friends observing through that scope. So no worries aby chriske - Look what I made!
10" f/5.8 Dobsonian telescope - 9 years ago
Hi, Fully printed and functional telescope printed in PLA(except for the aluminum poles and the optics of course) Chrisby chriske - Look what I made!
Top layer quality - 9 years ago
Hi guys, I use two i2 machines for about 2 years now.(made a few mods) Not a single major problem. Perfect prints all the time. Perimeter is always very beautiful, except the top layer. Large top surfaces are not perfectly flat. All bottom layers I print are always flat, not a single ripple and very glossy and most of the time no warping. I know I cannot have the same surface-quality on top as tby chriske - Printing
Re: SmartCore CAD file in Inventor & step format. - 9 years ago
Quoteneolinux Nice work, can you design the jhead too? here's one and another one All in STEP.by chriske - Smart_Rap
Re: Warping problem - 9 years ago
Larger bed, I thought of that to but I do not print very often larger parts than 185x185mm. In fact all my projects are based on a standard printer with 200x200 heatbed. This very moment busy designing and printing a rather large telescope. All printed part, fitting on that 200x200 mm bed, has to be assembled ending up with a large instrument(but that's off topic...;-) )by chriske - Printing
Re: Warping problem - 9 years ago
Thanks for the reply, Done all that, I have two exact the same printers. One with a fan cooling the peek, the second one no fan, but there is no difference at all, both have the same problem. And indeed rounded corners is not much of a problem. But some designs I can't change...pity... And again it's only while printing larger parts, say almost filling completely the heatbed. Printing smallerby chriske - Printing
Warping problem - 9 years ago
Hi guys, I only have a warping problem when printing very large pieces, and only at the very corners. What to do to avoid this...? It's not a sticking problem, I even have problems to remove parts from the heatbed. Almost have to wait until it reaches room-temperature to remove parts(but that is not a problem, because I use spare glass sheets during printing) Prusa Mendel Bed 60° (Glass - 100%by chriske - Printing
i2 extruder and carriage - 9 years ago
Hi guys, Check this out. Chrisby chriske - General Mendel Topics
Re: How would I design such a unique shape? - 9 years ago
Hi, Using Inventor I would not use sheet metal function for this one. This object is rather complex and sheet metal has its limitations when working on more complex functions. I would rather use a plain ipt. I would go like kengineer wrote, a block to large and cutting what's not needed. A (about)10 minute job indeed. Don't print it to thin. And is your bed large enough for this one..? Somethiby chriske - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)