Ik heb geprobeerd een hybride object te printen, met eerst een deel in flex PLA en daarna de filament gewisseld met gewone PLA. Het ziet er kek uit, maar bij de geringste belasting trek je beide delen van elkaar af. Heeft iemand een tip voor een beter hechting ? Thomasby Replace - Extruder, Hotend en Filament
This might help: Import the .STL in Openscad. Intersection it with a cube that is the buildplate. As long as you have results, you can rotate the object (in decimals) until no intersection left. For checks, lower the object a bit and recheck. Thus it is aligned. Remove the cube and export the object again.by Replace - Slic3r
I have designed an object in multiple parts. So I can print each part separately. For illustration purpose, I have placed all parts in one source and rendered it as one complex object. I have done this as an exploded view, which renders ok. Next I have placed all parts in their proper position. Now, the rendering is ok, with one warning, being not manifold. (Each part itself is manifold, soby Replace - OpenSCAD
Ok, ik ga eens kijken. Bedankt voor de tipby Replace - Algemeen
I was not aware of a possible minkowsky difference . Enyhow it is not there Your solution gives me a hard time programming internal ribs and supports in the hollow shape, as far as I can think-up now. But I will keep it in mind designing. Thanksby Replace - OpenSCAD
I am fond of Scale. But there is a question on the usage: When I want to make a hollow object, with predefined wall thickness, I design the object and Difference it with a scaled smaller copy, that is translated in Z, to a defined altitude that reflects the wall thickness on the build plate. However, the thickness of other walls: left, right, front, rear and top , (or with more complex objectsby Replace - OpenSCAD
Voor op mijn website wil ik een animatie-film maken waarin een door mij ontworpen object (of de individuele onderdelen daarvan) laat zien hoe het moet worden toegepast. Ik probeer te googelen welke software dat kan (liefst free- of shareware), maar krijg niet de juiste hits. Iemand enig idee in deze richting ? Ik heb zowel W10 als Mac ter beschikking Thomasby Replace - Algemeen
I always round my stuf with the minkowski () routine Only be aware that you need to do that first and rework the object later to prevent other faces to be rounded to. So minkowski the flat cube with a small sphere, (After the merge, it will be bigger 1/2 of the diameter) Scale down 1/2 of the diameter of the sphere cut off (difference) a bigger cube of the side that should not be rounded Add alby Replace - OpenSCAD
In kickstarter, ther is the sentinel projact, describing a filament detector. Sentinel The project claims compatibility with Repetier firmware, but does not show solutions yet. Modification of the code, using free endstops or other pins will be the clue. Has anyone done this already? I have some endstops free :-) Thomasby Replace - Repetier
Ik heb ze van hier: Alu printbed Je kunt de maten invoeren en ziet meteen wat het kost. Mijn printbed maat is 250x220 mm en in 3mm vlakke blanke alu kost een plaatje iets meer dan 5 euro (incl) Wel zelf het hoekje er af gezaagd. Thomasby Replace - Warmtebed en Printbed
Nou, het is een groot succes. Gister kwamen de plaatjes alu binnen. Ikhad er 3 besteld en betaald maar er zaten er 4 in de doos :-) Waarschijnlijk anders afval ofzo ...... Ik heb nu 3 (eigenlijk 4) plaatjes voor minder dan de kosten van 1 glasplaatje. Vanmorgen de hoekjes er afgezaagd (de home positie een hoekje er af, zodat ik na homing bij de nozzle kan om te wipen). Op die hoek staat toch nby Replace - Warmtebed en Printbed
Bij mij komt het glas na een keer of 10 verhitten en afkoelen van de plaat ook mee met het object :-( Het object ligt mooi los, maar als ik het optil dan ziten er scherfjes glas aan vast. Die springen er wel makkelijk af met een beetje buigen, maar de plaat is dan naar de barrebiessies....by Replace - Warmtebed en Printbed
Heb 3 plaatjes besteld, voor de prijs van één glasplaatje. (Maar ja die zijn duur wegens de randen afwerken en een hoekje afsnijden. Bij de alu zaag ik dat er zelf wel af (dat is de home, zodat hij kan druipen met 3mm ruimte .)by Replace - Warmtebed en Printbed
Ja, ik heb al 50 euro aan glasplaatjes verstookt :-(by Replace - Warmtebed en Printbed
Mijn glas problemen worden steeds hinderlijker, dus ik wil overstappen op een materiaal dat beter tegen uitzetting en krimp kan. Mar de print moet wel loskomen :-) De vraag is dus of iemand weet of 3D-Lac ook op aluminium zijn werk doet ? Thomasby Replace - Warmtebed en Printbed
It is less a secret than might be exected. You can google images from the hull sections being transported out of the factory , to be asembled elsewere. Thanks for the link.by Replace - OpenSCAD
Yes, I will either make the underwater section up, or I will put water around it :-)by Replace - OpenSCAD
Ok, thanks. just as I thought. (I did not know the word 'frame' so I wrote cross-section. I will try to get hold of the frame design and start from there. thanks for the confirmation of the approach. I did not understand the chine part... sorry Is it true that the hull, if applied to f.i x100 frames, will follow the outlines of all of them ? And if it is not smooth, just put more frames in beby Replace - OpenSCAD
My new bearrings have arrived, So I will start rebuilding the x-carriage with new bearings. I get the idea there is some drag in them now that might cause the step failureby Replace - Slic3r
I am not sure if I understand all that has been said above. I am more interested in filament out than in jam. My plan is/was to guide the filament through a micro switch that closes a circuit to give an alarm through all of my house :-) With my switch positioned far away from the extruder, there is enough time to run to the garage, hit the repetier-host pause button and replace the spool. Am Iby Replace - Repetier
For a friend of mine, who recently has been promoted to command a naval patrol vessel, I would like to build her (!) ship as a miniature in a bottle. There is enough photo material of that ship available and I am confident that I can design all upper structures with my moderate skills in OpenScad, but I am afraid that the hull will be a problem. Has anyone ever designed a ship's hull ? What wby Replace - OpenSCAD
Yes, it has a problem, I am aware of that.Thankyou for pointing that out But while finding time to fix it, I would like to keep printing in mean time. That's why the work around homing X is applied. The lift Z is usefull anyhow, for other reasons tooby Replace - Slic3r
Thanks. That looks promising On your question... Yes you may ask Every now and then, my printer looses some steps in the X direction. The result being a completely ruined object, displaced from the layer that missed the step. Some are deductable to hitting a perimeter during long travel (that why I am experimenting with the Z-lift) However, some are not explainable. As diagnosing has not yetby Replace - Slic3r
hmm... would that result in the same travel as G28 x0 ? If so, I can replace the homings ... I wil try thanksby Replace - Slic3r
I have sliced with the Lift Z before... where I defined a travel distance. This really improves travel to perimeters that tend to crawl up. Now it does not crash into th eperimeter but stops abve it and lowers into it nicely. However, a home-x command, which I will have inserted by the custom code 'after layer change' does travel a lot more , but does not trigger the lift z. So the home actioby Replace - Slic3r
Ok, that is a good tip. I will deselect that option for a chance... thnksby Replace - Slic3r
AS my Macbook is currently under repair, I installed Slic3r 1.2.9 on my new HP W10 laptop. But every 2nd or 3rd load, it will crash. 1st load after start will always be good. When I add, or add after delete, it will crash often. Is there a known issue with either the HP of the W10 ? Thomasby Replace - Slic3r
I have been testing with the @Pause command. This is exactly what I needed. I home the X before so no droop on the object. Thanks. Now.... it would be nice to know when that moment has arrived. So my thoughts are to sound an external alarm when @Pause is triggered. Any way to achieve someting like that ? Shorting a switch somewhere so that switch can power my alarm that is far away by wire ?by Replace - Slic3r