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Well the Wilson TS is rather like the i3, except they are useing Tslot for the frame. The design is still using smooth rods for movement. For a first build I would recomed just sticking with a i3 because of the greater support base. I would love to see a variant of it that uses Vslot . I also haven't seen any kits from anyplace but e-bay sellers who I tend to distrust.
Thanks Mike.
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
Well what I do when I need to drill a hole in the middle of a circle is. First find my center. Here is a instructible on how to do it . Next I secure my circle in a clamp or vise. If you don't have one you could put a couple nails in a line on a board. Then use a third nail in a hole drilled at 90 degrees to the line the first two nails make to secure your circle snugly. With a Gear the teeth gi
by
Miertam
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General
For US kits I really like the Makerfarm i3v the 10 inch kit is a bargain, and they have great support. The Vslot beams make the printer more rigid than most other wood construction i3s.
if you want a delta printer I would go with
Both of these kits are more expensive than the super cheap kits you find on e-bay that is because they both use quality parts and they both are backed by compan
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
Tricky but not impossible to do with hand tools. How I would solve the home production issue is use another piece of aluminum angle cut to the right size and bolted to the bottom of the X carriage beam. Not as pretty or light as your design but much simpler for the typical maker to replicate.
Thanks Mike
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Miertam
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Reprappers
This is a really nice design. As you mentioned this is influanced by the i3 Prusa but it's not a copy. I like that it requires nothing other than a saw to cut the alluminum and a 3D printer to print out the parts. Laser/waterjet cut parts are awesome but unless you happen to know someone who is willing to do you a favor they are expensive to obtain.
Thanks Mike
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Miertam
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Reprappers
QuoteMutley3D
a one shot per layer printer im my view is impossible or cost prohibitive, unless your in the matrix
As someone above mentioned, there are other areas that can be improved/refined, but a full reset of implementation? I dont see it. Sorry to be negative but i think this is unrealistic.
Id equate the one shot per layer idea as similar to the difference between a car with wheels, an
by
Miertam
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General
The Future is really hard to predict, but Improvements I am excited about seeing are.
Dyes that can change the color of filament as you print to create multicolored prints with a single head/filament spool.
More designs that use extruded rails or lead screws instead of smooth rods.
Sensors that monitor your printer and stop it when it detects there is some sort of problem.
The growth of .stl m
by
Miertam
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General
It's possible your hobbed bolt needs cleaning. If it's only slipping intermittentanly or at the end of a long print it might produce the pinholes you see. After that I would look at my filament if you had a bubble or a bunch of bubbles in the filament that might cause your hotend to sputter.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
There is also the possibility of introducing air bubbles or other contaminates into the plastic. Most filament making machines have some sort of filter in the system.
Weight might also be a issue. When you pare everything down to fit on a printer you want to keep the printhead as light as possible.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
Something like this? You should search for Hand Drill Press Stand
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
I will second the Makerfarm 10 inch i3v kit. It is well designed and easy to build. You will need to know how to soder some parts, This will require a soldering iron (link to a good one below), and the ability to use simple hand tools. I would recomend you get a J-head with the kit it is the best beginner print head, possibly the best printhead period. Go ahead and order a spool of filament with
by
Miertam
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General
Quotedailafing
...
Ok, Z axis...... Yep, I understand that there is going to be a large weight here, and I'm still undecided on what I should use as a platform? any recommendations. I nearly said I'm going to use PLA, but PLA is all I know... Perhaps someone would recommend I switch since I may now be looking at a larger nozzle, different spec stuff etc...
My idea was to have 4 motors (one in ea
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Miertam
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Reprappers
I keep looking at the Sanguinololu as a drop in replacment for my Gen 6 board. Has anyone here done this. I see they are just $45 from Geeetech another $15 if you want a LCD controler board with a SD Cardslot.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
A friend of mine has bought stuff off of DX.com. He tests everthing out and yes there are some problems with quality but some of the gear is ok. I am not sure what the return policy is like I haven't asked. So it's a crapshoot sometimes you roll 7s sometimes boxcars.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
What I did was take my speeds and take them to the absolute minimum for my shakedown prints. I think I had my XY set to 300 and my Z set to like 100. But the actual settings don't matter as much as you start slow then you slowly turn up the speed. I found something small I wouldn't mind printing dozens of then just went to work. Tuning your printer is a process.
and
As well as the calibratio
by
Miertam
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General
QuoteMd
Hi there,
Just recently got my printer 100% set up. One problem, the extruder will hardly extrude any material. It does at a very slow rate and if I actually put manual pressure on the PLA that is feeding into the extruder it works just fine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
It sounds like your hobbed bolt needs tightining. Not sure which coldend the aworldnet a600 has but ther
by
Miertam
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General
Not my hot end but the link is
Thanks Mike
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Miertam
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Reprappers
QuotesAyin
Thank you for the quick reply. I managed to fix that problem by moving the z endstops
Also can you tell me how to improve print quality? I done my first print of a cube and it didn't exactly come out right shape. I have straightened the bed and z axis are both the same height, any other suggestions? I've attached a picture of my print quality.
Well You are printing Congratulations!
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Miertam
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General
I would use something like Pipe insulation tape it's cheap and easy to apply and it's not fiberglass, ichy ichy fiberglass.. I see some people are using Energancy Blankets as insulation that would be another cheap way to go.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
There are several things that could be causing that. The first place I would look is at your Z endstop it might just be set slightly too high. Try moving it down the amount of space between your print head and the print bed.
After that if it's still not going all the way down make sure your z threaded rods are straight, if this is the problem you will hear your stepper motors struggling as the
by
Miertam
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General
Well it could simply be that when your head crashed the first time the trapped nuts in your Z axis spun out and are just spinning free under your Y ends. ..or have fallen off and are under your printer.
Thanks Mike
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Miertam
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General
Quotefbnr
This is a problem I found with my J head. The Teflon liner is too short. The filament was building up between the nozzle and the liner. I was having to turn the temp up high enough to keep the filament melted at the joint between them. The liner needs to be in contact with the nozzle so the filament can flow into it. I used the piece in the picture to make a spacer that I put between th
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
Quotewaitaki
What is "magic" about smoke?
Computers and other electronics run on magic smoke. Oh people talk about electrons and such but it's really the magic smoke trapped inside the electronics that make them run. When you let it out ..or it escapes in the night while you are not looking then the electronics stop working. Then you have to do the rituals of aree-place and raw-pear to make it w
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
Quotebrucehvn
If one of the z motors is stuttering, then that usually points to the stepper driver voltage settings not being high enough. Also, you need to make sure the z threaded rods are not binding in any way. When I first put together my i3, the threads in the m5 rod had some gunk in them and it would cause similar behavior when it would hit the gunk. I ended up having to run an m5 nut u
by
Miertam
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General
Well looking over the Wiki for the Hephestos almost all of the printer looks like a fairly well designed i3 with the exception of the witbox extruder and it's special mounting bracket. You should be able to swap in a Wade's with any other hot end with minimal difficulties. I did find a place selling just the hotend but it sounds like you want the complete kit.
Of the hotends that seem popular
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Miertam
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Reprappers
Has anyone tried mixing laser toner into natural filament? it should become bonded at around 200C.
Thanks Mike
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Miertam
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Developers
There are lots of good kits out there that are a good place to start many of them ship out of india...But Since you said build from scratch I would start with the Wiki and look over your options. The Prusa i2 and i3 are both easy to source parts for with minimal digging, as is the mendel 90. You might be able to find someone local to help you out in the India user group forum.
Thanks Mike
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Miertam
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General
Well that was useless. Contacted support they said ...
[9/9/2014 11:41:40 PM] Sir Ket: Hello, I bought one of your i2 prusa Kits a few months ago. I was looking around for the .STL files so I can print out spare parts for my machine but I can't find them on the 3dstuffshare site. Am I just missing them?
[9/9/2014 11:42:13 PM] 3Dstuffmaker Support: Hi.. This is Jane.
[9/9/2014 11:42:28 PM] Sir K
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Miertam
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General
I will ask next time I see the support staff pop up on skype. Something like that would be good to put in their 3dstuffshare site. Which is where I started my search.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
It sounds like your printbed is set just a smig too low. Try lowering your z axis endstop, or raising your printbed.. Some pictures of the problem would help greatly.
Thanks Mike.
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
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