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Safety...
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Hia,
I've printed several xyz calibration cubes, the y and z axis looks fine on the cube whilst the x looks like its disapeared into the print/ a slight bulge.
Not sure why this is the case since the prints work out fine otherwise, the x axis is now tight, whilst the rest of the x axis gantry is prity stable.
Kind Regards
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npm1
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Printing
Hia,
i have three cables live nuatral and ground coming from my female mains switch, three cables are usually connected to the 24v PSU accordingly.
So knowing this, how would i work with the cables and do i end up with some loose cables
Sorry i don't understand...
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hia,
I have BIGTREETECH-Relay-V1.0, and would like to correctly wire it up.
This item turns of the printer after a print, just looking to know how to correctly hook it up since the picture provided in the github is not clear.
Bigtreetech relay
I've currently have a PSU hoocked up to a female mains and switch combo i.e. like the one in this link:
PSU mains connector
any advice will be great
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi,
Would any modification of the tmc 2209 be needed. I've got the drivers, that have the usual pins as well as the two additional pins as depicted in the picture above.
as per the instructions do i need to remove any pin for rotation block
ideally i wouldn't want to would it create a problem or errors if i didn't kind regards
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hia,
I upgraded to the tmc2209 drivers from the a4899s on the X and Y axis I was really happy, so I thought I'd upgrade the drivers for the Z and E0.
However when i went to check the z axis stepper driver's vref, I accidentally put the screwdriver onto a capacitor thinking that the dial for changing vref was on the top as I was doing the same for all the drivers i.e. to check and correct them.
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
I think i may have solved the issue, since when i downloaded the new cura, i just transferred the backup, after resetting top layers look good
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Ohk so i went back to basic settings i.e. an ABS preset and found that once sliced the number of layers increased as well as the file size, just running this through a print as we speak...i have appended the new file, the old file had 100 layers whilst the new file had 125 layers....I saw this through prontoface...
Once more when i slice the calibration angle and click preview it the top layer l
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Ohk, so i've sliced the files in cura 4.3, and when its printed the cube looks fine at first but when it gets to this layer its becomes an issue to the point, where i can peel it off, regardless of which settings i've used... I do print in an enclosure and I have increased the temperature of the nozzle and heated bed...
this is the new file:
I've also ran the gcode through cura and there don't
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
@Roberts_Clif hia, what would you suggest, I only have one fan and that's cooling the heatsink... The print sticks perfectly, and the print looks decent upto that layer...
Should I just increase the bed temperature... Would that improve anything
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
@ Roberts_Clif the cube is sliced in cura 4.3.0. with .2 layer height, .4 nozzle, 80c bed on lexan, and 235c hotend
Your welcome to have a look at the gcode file I posted I could also post the settings once I get home
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hia, thank you... I have already got a enclosure brought from ikea(stuvia)
I would try the higher heated bed to see if it's improved...
Other than this split at the consistent place the prints look great
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I am print ABS in an enclosure,and most of the print has worked out well with minor tweaking, however, the top layer always seems to split or skip a step(not to sure).
The cube is sliced in cura 4.3.0. with .2 layer height, .4 nozzle, 80c bed on lexan, and 235c hotend.
the gcode to the calibration cube/chep'scalibration cube is attached
While i'm on the subject of slicing and calibration m
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
I tried that but can't remember what happened with the board, I'll let you know if I get any luck...
If this works then the remaining issue will be with baby stepping...
How would I get this working with octoprint is there a script or addon for baby stepping
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npm1
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Safety & Best Practices
Hi,
I am a happy user of SKR 1.3, however for some stupid reason, I decided to plug my LCD into the board whilst it was on.
I did unplug the LCD to allow faster firmware upload, in visual code editor but I forgot to turn of the power to skr 1.3, plug the LCD in and restart the board as I would normally do.
Now the board comes on, but is not detected by my laptop or octoprint like it was before
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npm1
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Safety & Best Practices
Hi,
I have a spare 12v silicone heated bed, what modifications would I need to make it work on a 24v power supply?
.Buck converter
.Mosfet
.Direct connection with issues( please explain any potential issues)...
Please Help
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npm1
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General
I have a duet and would likely connect the 12mm sensor to a octocoupler...
How much better would an iron sheet be compared to cast aluminium sheet
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npm1
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General
It's a standard 24v aluminium heated bed on a Y carriage.
Would bed leveling become anymore accurate?
Would a 12mm sensor be better than a 8mm sensor?
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npm1
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General
Hi,
What would the advantages of buying a SICK inductive sensor rather than nock offs, would they be any better in terms of repeatability, accuracy or would they be a waist of time. I.e. one of these:
What would the best sensor be for G29/G32... accuracy/repeatability etc please don't include bltouch
Would buying a dedicated power supply improve anything about these 10v-36v sensors in general
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npm1
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General
Hi,
I was tweaking my printer yesterday with one of the awesome prints from thingiverse. The way i was adjusting it was by using the LCD:
The question is:
Where I find the Flow rate which is dialed in at 200 on the LCD and my slicer extrusion multiplier is .94. How would i go about calculating the new extrusion multiplier.
Speed, on this setting I dialed the speed in at 80 rather than 100. Ho
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi,
My printer is working well, with the bed dimensions being 210*210, the probe offset being set appropriately, and all hardware and cabling appropriatelly pluged and fixed.
Issue is when any of the axis moves from the endstop to the end of the axis, the endstop being being zero, the lcd is reading half of what the end of the axis should be, So the dimensions of the printer should be x210 x y2
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
EEPROM - 5 years ago
When clearing eeprom is it better to have cleared from octoprint or the lcd?
As soon as i start editing eeprom from anything other than the firmware or LCD the dimensions of the machine change. I had this experience once when using repetier host.
Please Help.
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
just to have it work, with nothing missing, looking to trial a copper sheet to see whether this could be treated as traces, if this works then, I confirm this.
Tried copper to emulate this pinda feature, but it didn't work.
Also, i am also looking to either print blocks so that the z axis can go up until the z end caps are reached, or find the code that tells the print to go up until stalled,
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
just to have it work, with nothing missing, looking to trial a copper sheet to see whether this could be treated as traces, if this works then, I confirm this.
Also, i am also looking to either print blocks so that the z axis can go up until the z end caps are reached, or find the code that tells the print to go up until stalled, and instead tell it go down instead. find out shortly.
I am also
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
So i commented this section, as a way of removing the filament run out sensor in the 1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h file :
// Define Prusa filament runout sensor
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SUPPORT
//#ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SUPPORT
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR 1
//#endif
Would there be any other Section I'd Need to comment out in order to disable the filament sensor
I also Changed the lcd d
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi,
I've done further testing, and have successfully homed all axis using the sensorless homing, purchasing fans for further look.
By uploading the firmware through marlin I'll try to disable the filament sensor.
I am also looking to change my e3d hotend from 12v heater to 24v official one.
I've got a generic 24v heated bed from hictop etc.
How would I disable scew calibration in the firmware
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi,
I managed to install a generic LCD 2004 screen by removing the locking tabs from the LCD connector and reversing the cable ALL GOOD
Selftest-when I run this would the printer work out the length of the axis YET TO BE RAN WILL BE RUN SOON
Calibrate XYZ- how would i do this feature on a fake prusa without the 4 calibration points on my bed, if this isn't done would i still have successful bed
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Oh sure, so the larger screen wouldn't work out of the box, how different is configuration.h pure marlin Vs prusa marlin
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
setting up the rambo on a diy printer how would i avoid certain features such as having the z axis go up to level the axis or atleast have it so that it goes down instead.
how would i remove the scew calibration feature.
thanks becuase i'll love the prusa but not price the board seems easy and with simple .hex uploader..
who could complain when the package is actually decent
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
would the the standard 2004 lcd work on the einsyrambo, and would i be able to use a different lcd preferable the bigger one on the einsyrambo
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npm1
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Prusa i3 and variants
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