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Thank you so much!!!
by
AlexPl
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Printing
Hello, i'm trying to heat up experimental hotend, however i'm having an issue with Pronterface not going past 260 on the hotend. It lets me set the temperature, says that it starts heating, lets say to 265, however at the bottom, where the temperature is displayed in says 260 as a target temperature. Once it is reached, the temp hovers around 260. I can't find it neither in Pronterface settings n
by
AlexPl
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Printing
I think i have answered part of my question. There are 2 known main emissions streams to be concerned with: particle emissions and VOC emissions. Airtight enclosure might keep particles in, and after the print is done they probably settle on the surfaces. However door opening most likely would agitate some of them. And VOCs being gasses will not settle and will mix with the air outside once the e
by
AlexPl
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Safety & Best Practices
I've been thinking of mitigating particles emissions while printing. Does one really need filtration, or if the box enclosure is tight enough air will not escape and particles will settle on the surface of the chamber once printing is done? Am i missing something here?
by
AlexPl
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Safety & Best Practices
Quoterq3
For what it's worth, I print PETG at 230 C, with a bed temp of 40 C, at between 40 and 240 mm per second. Glass bed with Elmers school glue for adhesion, with the part cooling fan at full speed at all times, for all layers. If the print starts with no part cooling, it does not stick, or warps badly.
Just my experience.
Thanks for sharing. I just tried to go lower on the printbed, it do
by
AlexPl
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Printing
QuoteOhmarinus
Maybe as a last resort you could design a 2x layer height circle on the spot where it lifts. Like a manual brim? Make sure the circle has a diameter of at least 3cm. Worth a try. I had to do some of these manual attachments one time for a print when I was making a spool holder back in 2012. From there on I just decided to not print spool holders anymore (but the print worked!).
by
AlexPl
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Printing
Thanks for the advice, i have moved on from my Prusa MK3 printer with PEI bed onto Ender 3. Added a piece of glass, tried with gluestick - not much improvement, then printed on bare glass. It didn't want to stick even to glass until you get that first layer just right. Too much or too little squish ruins it all, has to be just right. Managed to print a model that stuck to the bed and was impossib
by
AlexPl
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Printing
I have printed with a hotter bed (at 97C) and that has produced the smallest warp so far, but it still warped (but no elephant's foot at this temp yet). I have read about other people's experiences, and as much as i didn't want to start applying any kind of tape over the bed it seems that its the next step i should try. Blue painter's tape and hairspray.
by
AlexPl
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Printing
Thank you for the tip, David. Something i might try on small prints, so far i have been modifying default Prusa profile for PETG, the high temps are from there. Just fired up the printer, set the bed to 60C and it started lifting off the bed pretty much straight away. I do not get how people are complaining that it is stuck to PEI too well and even using glue to separate (perhaps i should try glu
by
AlexPl
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Printing
QuoteOhmarinus
Did you try rotating the part so that it sits differently on the bed? And do you print with a print cooling fan? How about turning it off for the first few layers? You can also try printing with a slightly lower temperature or raising the temp on your heated bed just to try out if that works.
Would it be possible to make the brim 3 layers high instead of one layer?
So many option
by
AlexPl
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Printing
I'm trying to print large thin-walled PETG part (attached, it takes up full bed width and is about 100mm in height), and i have done several prints, on both Prusa MK3 and Ender 3, i have even printed it in PLA to compare, and it seems the bottom right corner lifts off the bed every time when the print reaches 40-50 mm in Z. Brim doesn't help (it helps a little bit, brim stays in place, but the co
by
AlexPl
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Printing
Quotepliers
I've just got an ender 3 and whilst assembling it I noticed that the belt rises a bit between the line of the pulleys, so as such I suspect there may be some very slight distortion of prints along the Y axis depending on how far the print is from the highpoints of where the belts attach, I think adding a small idler and elongating the holes for adjustment may solve the issue if there
by
AlexPl
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General
Quoteo_lampe
If one axis is tight and binding, you often see shifted layers. (search 'skipped steps' too )
When the walls of the cube are vertical, but too small you can recalibrate the axis. Put the new found steps/mm in the startcode of your slicer ( M92 Y####) or overwrite the eeprom. (Send M92 Y#### and M500 directly from Pronterface or other terminal)
Thank you. This is very useful, i didn
by
AlexPl
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General
Hello, i wonder if someone can advise on the issue. I have just assembled Creality Ender 3 printer and printed a 20 mm calibration cube. It actually printed well, however when i measure the dimensions - y axis side of it appears to be 19mm instead of 20. X is perfect and Z is 19.7mm (which is fine i assume). I would imagine that steps per mm are already calibrated properly at the factory. I wonde
by
AlexPl
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General