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I see an E -4 move in your second line which would retract. I don't see a positive 4 move to re-prime.
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Printing
FYI, Igus sells iglide printer filament designed specific for bearings. Might be an option if you need custom shapes or sizes.
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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General
Those OEM recommended service intervals are for a bearing under maximum load and speed. We don't come close to that with slow and light axis of a desktop 3D printers. If your building that much heat to break down grease, you have other issues.
Grease will break down and separate over time so it's not a bad idea to re-lube every year or so. Maybe more often if your printer is in a dirty shop e
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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General
That's why the PSU has multiple connections for the output. It makes it easier and tidier to wire up.
As long as total power consumption is under the PSU power rating (600W) your good.
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Safety & Best Practices
Quick and to the point, I printed about 5-6 holders for lock cylinders. After initial print the lock cores had a nice snug slip fit but, after a few months the cores fit so tight I need a lot of force to push them in and out. One of them even needed to be cut off to get the core out.
Has anyone run into similar issues? Would something other than PLA be a better choice for expansion/contractio
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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General
If your hot end is too hot, it can cause melted filament seep around and push back up into the heat sink area where it cools and causes a blockage. It can also cause heat creep and soften filament in the heat sink junction where it suddenly cools the outer wall and blocks the path. If your Bowden tube doesn't have a nice clean cut or isn't seated properly it will help show these problems.
1:
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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General
FYI: You don't need a sacrificial tower if your using Cura. There is a setting in advanced options called "minimal layer time" that will park your print head for the set time before starting the next layer.
I don't think it's available in Presa slicer.
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Printing
I may have slightly misunderstood when reading this the first time but, I believe it sounds like you may still need to adjust your home position after you figure out the offset issue.
It seems you've been reading advice assuming you had a probe and your chasing your tail with offsets, I'd recommend starting with a clean pallet.
1: Comment out any instances of probe or auto bed level in Marlin
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Navin_R_Johnson
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Firmware - Marlin
You need to remove ANY and ALL offsets in Marlin, slicer, g-code and eprom and make the proper mechanical adjustments to your machine.
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Firmware - Marlin
I've been running Octoprint for a couple months and have an issue that pops us a bit too frequently.
If I close my browser window and try to reopen during the print, or log on with a different device mid print, Octoprint throws a server connection error and shuts down my printer. I thought I found the problem y switching browsers to access it and showed no issue for a couple weeks but, yesterda
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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General
Your explanation is a bit easier to understand but, the answer remains the same. Remove any software Z offsets you have applied and make the proper mechanical adjustments to your tool.
IMHO, there are too many places you can add an offset in software and having them set in multiple locations can create some troublesome issues. You can set offsets in firmware, in startup g cade, on the printer
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Printing
"why in the starting movement there isn't any offset"
Assuming you are referring to the home position, it's because your printer can't apply an offset before it knows where zero or home position is.
It would be best practice to remove your software offsets and make the proper mechanical adjustments to level and set bed height.
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Printing
Thanks for the input folks.
A few notes from my end. I've been using an RPi on my old printer and I have not found it reliable. Server connection and network problems seem to be common and I've lost several prints that were hours in due to various associated issues.
Power loss, "brown outs", are also common here in summer months along with a bonehead kid in my shop who likes to trip power strip
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Navin_R_Johnson
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
I have a new printer build in the works and I'm considering my choices on main boards.
The Duet WIFI is currently high on my radar because it has some nice features I'd like. Direct connect WIFI, load/print from SD, recovery, 24V and 32bit. My concerns about going with the Duet would be firmware. I'm pretty comfortable setting up Marlin and there's very good support for it as it seems the m
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thanks for all the input and an update.
I printed some feet and secured the printer to a butcher block along with a few other reinforcements to secure the top of the printer yesterday. I also took a stethoscope to the motors and tuned vref for least noise as recommended. 0.65mV seemed best and was set for all the drivers.
The prints look way better from where I started and ringing is gone but
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Printing
Yes, same settings for both prints. There is no infill as the part is only 1mm thick.
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Printing
I bought a used RepRap Guru a few weeks back knowing it needed to work but having trouble figuring out a print issue. The part on the left in the attached image is from the Guru and on the right is from my Ender 2. I can't get rid of that orange peel like finish and have pretty noticeable ringing in both x and y axis.
At first I thought this was going to be a simple mechanical issue so I tore
by
Navin_R_Johnson
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Printing